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Clutch Disc

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
whitenviro
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Clutch Disc

Postby whitenviro » 11 Feb 2014 13:14

My clutch kit came with a Japanese Aisin disc that clearly didn't belong there, so the company replaced it right away. But I'm still not sure they sent me the right disc. It fits on the spline correctly and is the right diameter, but are there any visible differences between a 4-speed disc and 5 speed disc?

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 11 Feb 2014 13:40

I think the 4 speed clutch discs have been upgraded to five speed clutch discs on some. To be safe I made sure I got an AP (Borg & Beck) from Moss UK. The clutch disc pads can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so you will see a variety of designs.

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr7-tr8/clutch-components/clutch-kit-3-pc-borg-beck-tr7.html



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 11 Feb 2014 16:59

Hi,

Both will fit either, size and splines are identical, the only difference is there are more torsional springs on the 5 speed centre plate.

Cheers John

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Postby whitenviro » 12 Feb 2014 05:16

O.K., I finally ran out of excuses and climbed under the car to pull the gearbox. Really not too difficult, but I'll have to follow my notes well to get it all back together. It did prove to me that I am not as well equipped for this sort of thing as I need to be. I did it with a single jack under the engine and a sloping pile of lumber under the gearbox. Once I had the angle right, I just gave it a tug and it slid apart and down the wood pile.

It didn't take long to find the culprit:

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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

Workshop Help
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Postby Workshop Help » 12 Feb 2014 10:52

Tis' a sad sight, indeed.

Please install a couple of studs in the lower two holes of the engine mounting plate to serve as guides in aligning the gearbox back into place. It will save you from a considerable amount of animalistic grunting and various profanities.

On the replacement clutch arm, it is a good idea to apply a dab of heavy grease to the pivot pin and the dimple to reduce the friction of the metal on metal grinding.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 12 Feb 2014 11:41

Told you! [:p]

Clay

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Postby andyf » 12 Feb 2014 12:29

Hope you`re feeling strong when it comes to refitting the box [:p]

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Postby DNK » 12 Feb 2014 12:38

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by andyf</i>

Hope you`re feeling strong when it comes to refitting the box [:p]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Bet by then he's rounded up the proper equipment for reinsertion! [8D]

Don
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Postby Hasbeen » 12 Feb 2014 14:58

The first time I pulled a box out of a 7 I had no idea of how heavy it was. I found myself under the car on my back, with the box on my chest, & I was not strong enough, in that position, to lift it off, & put it down beside me.

After eventually getting out, I made up a wooden frame that supported the box, firmly at about the right angle, & fitted over the floor trolley jack. Doubt I could have got it back in without that.

Hasbeen

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Postby dursleyman » 12 Feb 2014 15:11

I just bought a NOS Special Tuning competition plate apparently for a TR7 off Ebay. Looks pretty good and only cost me £10. Label says STR 0415, its branded Borg and Beck so hoping it does the job.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Postby whitenviro » 12 Feb 2014 17:25

I knew how heavy it was, because I have my spare I have been getting ready. I've been working on it in my basement, which means I had to lug it up a set of 15 stairs to get to the house, then down another set of stairs into the basement. I get to repeat that in reverse to get it down to the garage!

My lumber pile did ok, and might be the way it goes back in too. It kept the whole thing at the right angle to align with the rear of the engine. I may have to oil up a surface between boards so I will be able to push the box uphill into position.

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Postby DNK » 12 Feb 2014 17:38

The box isn't oily enough already?

Don
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Postby busheytrader » 15 Feb 2014 11:59

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by whitenviro</i>


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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Wow! This photo takes me back 22 years when exactly the same happened to my Wedge. It prompted the V8 conversion........[:D]

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

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Postby FI Spyder » 15 Feb 2014 14:13

No one has mentioned this before but it seems to me that the circular depression in the pivot presents a sharp edge that wears through the fork. I don't know why it wasn't smooth round whether it's a casting/manufacturing issue or just a place to pack some grease. I can't remember if I smoothed it off with a Dremel or not. My fork was just a little worn (at 100,000 miles) so I put it back in. Hopefully it will last till next clutch change when it will be time to pull the engine (200,000 miles) for a little freshening up and my new 9.25 to 1 pistons.

I never regretted spending $40 on my ATV scissor jack making the hardest part getting at the upper mounting bolts around the FI air plenum, distributor, upper LH side of engine. Still not fun times and something I don't want to do often.


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whitenviro
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Postby whitenviro » 15 Feb 2014 15:28

I agree; the hole in the pivot acts like a cutting edge. You can see where it has been digging into the metal. I plan to smooth that edge a bit before installing the new stuff. I was also thinking of cleaning out the hole and putting a graphite plug in there to act as a solid lubricant. I have some electric motor brushes that I can shape down to fit the hole.

I planned to do my Sprint conversion when this happened, but I'm getting anxious to get the car back on the road and I'm still collecting the pieces. I am almost ready, but should take my time building up the spare engine. My cylinder head and an intake with SU carbs arrived the other day; the SU are a mystery at the moment. I still need timing gears and chain, as well as some good engine bearings.

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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

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