steering judder

[slider]

could some one please help, when i brake to slow or stop in my TR7 V8 the steering judders. The wheels are balanced,brakes cleaned and newish pads and everything checked and tightened on the front end underneath! Please can some one help,AM I MISSING SOMETHING when checking things out ?[:(]

[PeterTR7V8]

The TR7 steering is very susceptible to vibrations. If it seems to be caused by braking then check the rotors/discs. The slightest warp will make the steering wheel shake.

[FI Spyder]

Sounds like rotors are warped. My Toyota is particularly suseptable to this (by rep). Had the braking judder for years. When I finally had to replace pads I replaced rotors (as cheap as a regrind) it went away but after a couple of years it's back (slightly). The least little heat cycle seems to warp them.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Bendder]

FI Spyder,

If it's a Toyota I guess your lucky it stops at all!! Seems as of late they have no trouble accelerating all on thier own! and some don't stop either.



Mark
1977 TR7 FHC
1978 TR7 FHC
1980 TR7 DHC
1980 Rover SD1 4.0L

[mb4tim]

warped rotors or shot wheel bearings.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

[Hasbeen]

Before you spend too much money, thoroughly check your tyres,
particularly if they are a few years old, for uneven wear, any
lumps, or flat spots, if the car has been sitting for a while. All
these can cause your problem, as well as the other problems above.

Also have a look at your front anti roll bar bushes. It controls the
position of your lower control arm, & thus the front end geometry.
It can allow excess castor, which can also give steering judder
under brakes.

Hasbeen

[John Clancy]

I'm beginning to suspect worn stut top mounts also cause the infamous TR7 steering wheel judder.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Hasbeen]

I would expect your right John. I think it would also be
accentuated by any play between the rack & the pinion, which had
not been adjusted out by shim removal.

Hasbeen

[Underdog]

The Poly bushes helped mine greatly. As the others mention, rotor and wheel brgs will agravate the condition. But, I have always maintained that the method of locating the lower pivot arm with the sway bar was a mistake. All of the serious race cars have had this layout modified in some way. But about all us street types can do is try to stiffen things up with the uprated bushes.

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[slider]

thanks folks,i think it could be the caster of front struts as the tyres toe out at the bottom slightly and i think that could be it as the discs are fine and so is everything else that i have checked!

[Hasbeen]

Slider, are you talking about toe in/out, or camber.

Every 7 I have owned has had some negative camber, [wheel leans in
at the top], & this will not effect judder/wobble.

Hasbeen

[Workshop Help]

Bent wheels, my friends! Bent wheels! If you let anyone else in the whole wide world torque your lug nuts, particularly with an air wrench, you're gonna get a bent wheel.

Repeatedly I have intoned the magic incantation, "ALWAYS HAND TIGHTEN YOUR OWN LUG NUTS." Please.

Mildred Hargis

[busheytrader]

Additionally, not all aftermarket wheels fit the hubs as they should (hubcentric)and take their location from the studs.

The wheel and tyre may be perfectly balanced but if it's not perfectly centred on the hub it can bring on some weird vibrations, particularly under braking.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[Underdog]

Sorry but he's talking about the infamous shaky brakes. I can assure you it has nothing to do with bent rims. A bent rim will shimmy all the time. I had the shaky brakes with $1200 worth of Panasports and Yokahamas.

Also, I've heard of over or uneven tighening damaging rotors but not wheels. IMHO, I think other factors warp the rotors and it gets blamed on the last guy that had the wheels off.

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[Beans]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Underdog</i>

... I think other factors warp the rotors ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Like getting the discs to hot,
or parking the car with hot brakes,
or hot brakes being cooled down suddenly on one side ...

<center>
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1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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