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Bushings and shocks

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cozyheatdave
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Bushings and shocks

Postby cozyheatdave » 16 Nov 2009 16:03

This subject is probably a bit over-worked, but I’m lost in a world of sales pitches verses reality.
I’m rebuilding the full suspension of my TR7 with a Buick V6. While I have everything in parts I want to replace all my bushings and my front shock inserts.
There are Standard, Uprated (hard), and the yellow Polyurethane. I’ll admit I’m a sucker for a good ride, and I’m not the kind to drive my car hard. I just want to enjoy the ride. So, the hard, performance stuff is not my thing. But, I don’t want the car to dip and roll either. Will I regret buying just stock bushings and shocks?
What is your personal experience, and how do you expect your car to drive?
I’m pricing Rimmers and the seem pretty good when I compare, but still almost a thousand American dollars for bushings, bolts, ball joints, a steering rack, and some shocks – ouch!

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 16 Nov 2009 16:54

Hi Dave,

The stock bushes allow the suspension to move about and lose its geometry under cornering. Many of them are hollow. Before polybushes became available the only option was solid hardened bushes which required a hydraulic press to fit.

I found that polybushes sharpened up the handling and especially the steering response helped by uprating the subframe bushes as well. As you say there's lots of them The original bushes aren't noted for a long life so it's win / win in replacing them with polybush.

Polybushes on their own won't make the ride harsh. I found 200lb springs all round make for a firm and comfortable ride but that might not suit everyone. I'd recommend uprated shox as well as it stops the 7 from wallowing. If adjustable, start them on a low setting and firm them up until you find your preferred set up. I did it the other way round and almost shook my filling out.

I'd definitely fit the anti dive kit on the front anti roll bar (swaybar)as well. 7's have a tendency to stand on their nose under hard braking. It's cheap as it's basically a pair of aluminium blocks and longer bolts.

That's my opinion, so over to the others on here.

P.S. Rimmers aren't the only suppliers over here, try Robsport and S&S for prices here in the UK. The weak GBP should help you. Alternatively there are US suppliers that many of the stateside guys use.

Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

jeffremj
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Postby jeffremj » 16 Nov 2009 17:49

At the rear I would steer clear of any poly bushes as you will probably get axle drone into the bodyshell. I use uprated rubber bushes on the leading ends and normal at the trailing ends. this reduces 'slack', but keeps any up/down harshness at bay. Don't fit the original cut-out bushes as they turn in situ - I believe they were there to reduce power on (off?) oversteer - not used in the Dolomite.

At the front, poly bushes are OK in places. The Triumph Dolomite used a metal bush (like a rose joint perhaps) at the lower arm to subframe connection, so a poly will probably be OK there on the TR7. I use uprated (IIRC) rubber on subframe to body area. I use poly on the anti-roll bar rear bushes and hard rubber on the anti-roll bar to subframe area.

Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 16 Nov 2009 18:01

Check Woody at Wedgeshop.com I wouldn't use anything but the poly bushes. They don't effect the ride much IMO. It is more to do with spring rates and shock stiffness. FWIW, I have Woody's springs, bushings, KYB shocks and one of TSI's larger frt bars.

Jim Underwood
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Nov 2009 19:49

Most of the bushes you get from US suppliers are black/hard poly. I've used these on the front except for subframe I used orange/softer poly from UK. No reason, just had the chance to get them from friend who had them extra. I used standard springs and KYB gas shocks. Everything is as firm as I would want. Apparently the Buick V-6 isn't that much heavier than the V-8/slant 4. 35 lbs. I've heard. Remember it also sits further back (only 3 cylinders long) so more of weight is shifted to the rear to compensate for any increase in weight.

I haven't driven a car yet that went 200lb springs, poly/high pressure 50 series 15" tires but will one day as a friend has that setup and says it's very stiff (for him.)

As mentioned, at least one end (forward?) of rear suspension should be rubber.

Just remember what is desireable for the track is not necessarily and often not what you want for the road.



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Beans
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Postby Beans » 16 Nov 2009 20:09

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jeffremj</i>

At the rear I would steer clear of any poly bushes as you will probably get axle drone into the bodyshell. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Just make sure you chose the right ones for your purpose. I have the blue poly bushes from Super Pro on all four corners of my DHC ...

Image

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... which are slightly softer compared to the yellow Superflex in my FHC (and as such easy to fit if you have a half decent vice). The DHC is very comfortable and quite to drive, with no vibrations being transmitted into the interior.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 16 Nov 2009 22:13

I have one of each.

The 8 has hard bushes, every where, stiff springs, stiff anti roll
bars, heavy duty adjustable shocks, dive kit, big discs all round,
limited slip diff, 15" wheels, & 280 BHP. The ride is firm.

The 7 has poly front bushes including subframe, poly bushes on the
diff, & solid rubber at the rear body. The shocks are heavier duty,
but at 55,000Km are probably now stock, or softer. Everything else
stock.

The 8 doesn't have any noise issues, corners a fair bit quicker than
the 7 on good surfaces, & stops a bit better, [not that much] but
has a TOTALLY DIFFERENT FEEL, on the road. It feels like most
better moderns, & is more effected by mid corner bumps. Cruising
down a good road, it's heaven.

The 7 is much nicer on our country, far from perfect roads. You can
feel each wheel exploring the road surface, & the body follows the
road surface contours much more, but gently. The suspension, & the
big bags of the 13" tyres can absorb mid corner bumps, & waves much
better, & is actually quicker on less good "B" roads. It is
incredible fun on good gravel.

I don't know if that helps, I think I said, both are great.

Hasbeen

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 17 Nov 2009 13:25

Thanks guys for all the information. That's exactly what I needed to hear. Beans, where did you get the blue Super Pro?
I might go with Poly bushings (Blue or Yellow) and standard shocks. I want a good quiet ride. Soft but not a dip n dive either. (more luxury than sport if I dare say that about a TR7).
I like the idea of the anti-dive kit. I already have a set of uprated springs that were already installed on the car.

Marko
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Postby Marko » 17 Nov 2009 20:11

hey beans, is there any difference in price between Super Pro and Superflex?

Beans
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Postby Beans » 17 Nov 2009 20:17

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by cozyheatdave</i>

... Beans, where did you get the blue Super Pro? ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Revington TR

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Marko</i>

hey beans, is there any difference in price between Super Pro and Superflex? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sorry can't tell as I bought the Superflex poly bushes 15 years ago.
Have a look at the @-site of both Superflex and Revington for up to date prices ...

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Marko
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Postby Marko » 18 Nov 2009 14:23

yea i know that superflex has prices, i also know they are one of the more expensive manufacturers.

ill send a mail to superpro.


thank's anyway

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