Rear Axle Movement

[Hasbeen]

OK Peter, here's the details.

OD A bit hard to measure in place, but about 28 mm, or 1.1 inches.

Thickness 2.81 mm, or 0.11 inches.

I measured the ones on the 7, as I THINK I put the original washers
back on it. However, as you found, it was about 4 years ago, & I'm
not totally sure.

Most importantly, things don't go "clunk" in the night, with those
bushes.

Hasbeen

[PeterTR7V8]

Thanks for doing that HB. The hunt is on. I hope you didn't find anything needing fixing while you were under there.

Just to be clear. The only washers that are needed are on the outside of the mounting brackets between the bolt head & the nut.

Cheers.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Hasbeen]

No mate.

Under the bolt head, & under the nut.

On the 7 they are on the trailing arms, & the radius rods, both
front, [on the body brackets], & rear, on the diff brackets, so 16
washers in all.

I didn't measure the 8, as it's so low I would have had to put it on
the ramps, but they look the same from what I could see. You are
quite welcome to come & measure it your self. Bring your gloves, &
you can find out it's like to drive.

No, the only thing needing fixing is this clapped out old body, so
let me know if you find a good parts supplier for this model.

Hasbeen

[PeterTR7V8]

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

Under the bolt head, & under the nut.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yep, that's what I said, or meant to. I haven't even looked at the lower arms.

I found some squarish washers that about 50 mm wide & 3 mm thick. I got the impression if I wanted round ones I would have to get them made. I couldn't find a tractor garage within cooee of the city. You might think that odd for New Zealand but since they stopped grazing sheep on the traffic islands last year the tractors have been pretty scarce. [:D]

I've ordered the new bushes from the British Auto Care place in Brisbane. They seem to have a lot of stuff in stock unlike my local suppliers.

If we were meant to last forever we'd be better at saving money when we were young.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Hasbeen]

Sounds stiff enough, for sure, Peter.

But, will the bolt be long enough to work with the nylock nut, or
will you need a longer bolt. It may be hard to find another longer
bolt with a long enough unthreaded length.

Don't leave it until wanted, to find you can't get bolts.

Hasbeen

[PeterTR7V8]

Well that's a good point. I can tell it is because I didn't think of it before. I got new bolts & nylocks using the old bolts as a guide but even on the old bolts the shank is exactly the equal to the width of the bush. With the washer & the mount widths taken into account the thread starts about 7mm inside the bush with plenty of thread at the end to engage the nylon ring of the nylock nut. This means there is enough thread to get a good tight connection or is the shank supposed be longer?

Oh, and Dale to answer your question. I don't know the spring rate. Rimmers have a standard spring & an uprated one. When faced with that choice I am a sucker for the uprated part so that's what I got. [8D] I just got the rear pair. My front springs are non-standard & I think they are 150lb.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Reddragon]

Peter

Thank you for the reply. I guess for the moment I will stay with the stock rears.

I see that you had an answer on your washer question. I used what is called here in the states a fender washer that was 50mm x 6mm. I got these at the local boat shop.

Dale
1974 TR6
1977 TR7 FHC

[PeterTR7V8]

Just to wrap this up, the new parts have done the job. I loaded the car up with all 4 wheels & a trunk load of paraphenalia & not once did the tyres hit the rims & I noticed no clunk from the axle as I took it to its temporary home in my sister's garage. I still need to do the lower arm bushes but at least I didn't need to raise the ride height to cope with all the junk in the trunk.

Just one thing. At the back of the bracket on the axle that locates the back of the lower link there is a rubber bump stop to prevent the lower arm hitting the bracket on upward suspension movement. It looks like they are a bit worn but I can't see it on any of the Rimmers diagrams & my Haynes manual. I can't find pictures of it & now the car is away from home for a few days but does anyone else have this?


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Hasbeen]

Glad that worked mate.

I heard somewhere, probably on here, that those things are an anti
tramp device, [as in axle tramp], but my 1977 manual doesn't even
show them.

I used the best of what I had, so have not tried the local people.
Let me know if you need me to try to chase them up, here.

Hasbeen

[Red]

Peter,

If you have trouble finding some locally, I know Superflex in the UK make these. There's two different types, small or large. Parts listing is here:

http://www.superflex.co.uk/results.php?maker=48&man_name=Triumph&searchmodel=248&Search=Go

(part nos. SPF1425 & SPF1612 respectively)

I assume they can post internationally, and for the size I can't imagine it costing too much either.

Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

[PeterTR7V8]

Cheers Garry. They look like the SPF1612 part.

Anti-tramp device? Doesn't explain the wife - yuk yuk thump!


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Triumph TR7V8 coupé]

High guys and girls,
I had this ‘clunc’ problem 20 years ago when I bought my first TR7. It is quite easy to determinate and to solve the problem.
Determination: Put the handbrake on, start the car and put it in first gear. Play with the clutch and throttle, if there is no problem the car should go downwards at the backend and you don’t here a ‘clunc’. If you here a ‘clunc’ than have somebody to take a good look at the wheels while you play with clutch and throttle. Before the backend moves downward you will see the wheel slightly moving back and forwards. This means there is some play at the trailing arms or tie bars. Most of the time this will appear at the attaching point between trailing arm and chassis because the material isn’t very thick at the chassis. Tightening the nuts and bolts may help but you can do better. If the drilled hole in the cassis attachment point is worn out this will only be a cure for the moment. Therefore put thicker and larger washers on bolt and nut side and have them WELDED into place. This will make the attachment point stronger and stiffer and the washer can’t move back or forwards anymore. I also put longer bolts with less thread in so the threaded part isn’t in the attachment but just outside of it, to make sure that there is enough thread so I can tighten the nut firmly I put an extra washer on the nut side.
Even without the ‘clunc’ problem you should consider doing this to avoid worse. It’s not expensive to do and it doesn’t take that much of your time.

The Rimmer Uprated Road Springs (the red ones) are 200 Lbs.

Hoping to be a help,
Greetings, J.

[PeterTR7V8]

Thanks J. Appreciate the info. I've just had the car out for a wheel balance & it is feeling much better - no clunk. I thought I had already posted this photo but in any case it shows the new washers on the upper arms. Big enough I should think.






Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.