Need help getting key out of ignition

[InfilTR8]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by macmattom</i>

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">InfilTR8, it depends on how far you want to go but I found it quite easy to dismantle the boot lock right back down to the tumblers and VERY VERY tiny springs (approximately 1 mm, yes one mm in diameter and 4 or 5 mm long!!). All you need is a very thin punch, probably no more than 2 or 3 mm in diameter, to push out the locking pins. Once you decide to commit, the whole process is actually quite simple to work-out step by step, but make sure if you do take one to pieces you do it somewhere clean, because these bits are very small and can spring away from the unsuspecting!

I then fitted and tweeked the tumblers in such a way that my ignition and door key now also fits the boot. It did take a bit of time and was quite fiddly, but eventually I succeeded in getting a lovely fit. The major difference is that there are 7 tumblers on the ignition/door keys, but only 5 on the boot; no problem, just make the 5 tumblers of the boot lock match the first 5 tumblers of the ignition/door mechanism.

If you were feeling adventurous you could try the same and rebuild yours accordingly, but might I suggest that if you were going to try this that you bought a spare lock barrel (from eBay?) and had a tinker with that. If succesful, swap over with your existing one, if not you've lost a few dollars but will know intimately how the lock works [:D] and your lock will still be intact. I didn't get as far as the glove box but will get around to it one day.

If you were interested I would be able to take a few photos of the mechanism to give you an idea of the intricate nature of the task, but as I only get to the car at weekends it would be a week or so I get them posted.

Good luck,

Mac.</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS"> <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I am interested in seeing what intricate work is needed. However, I am afraid of messing up really intricate lock works.

The locksmith has had trouble duplicating the trunk and the glovebox keys. In case I turn the ignition key over to a valet, I may want to retain the (separate and distinct) trunk key. I think I will not lock the glovebox, since it it easy to break open with ugly results. I hate car thieves. [V]

Ima TRyFixTR8 my first Triumph

[dave.c]

Hi All
I would imagine Stevie A's method would then allow a lot of other keys to work also,(those cut with a smaller pattern) therefore not very secure.
I dont lock anything on my car except for the boot if I have any valuables.
When I first started looking for a TR7 there were a few with damaged roofs, car thieves dont understand poppers.
I would rather replace a radio than a roof.
For security macmottom's idea on the barrell means only one key will fit.
ATB Dave

Its hard not to be big headed driving it

[InfilTR8]

Now I have a duplicated trunk key. The first locksmith referred me to a major size lock shop. I had been there before, but forgot about them. They did not have the exact blank but found a close one and filed it thinner. The side groove was wider. The first effort did not work. I got out my micrometer and found the tooth cuts to be too shallow. When I went back to the shop, I asked them to cut it deeper. He did that after explaining that the first try was based on positioning the key on the groove (which was wider). So the key with deeper teeth works with a slight hang up. Probably some small difference that I can't detect.

I'll keep the ignition and the trunk keys different. I'll bet some punky thief breaks one or both of the door locks someday.

Thanks to everyone who helped me get the only keys out of the ignition. [:)] [:D] [:)]

Ima TRyFixTR8 my first Triumph