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Fuel tank removal

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earlosborne55
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Fuel tank removal

Postby earlosborne55 » 24 Sep 2009 13:11

I have to remove the fuel tank from my TR7. Is it just as simply disconnecting the rear shocks and hoisting the rear body up? I'm sure almost everyone on here has had a leaking tank. And maybe the best suggested way to do it.I'm sure a few tricks can be learned from someone else's trials and errors....Appreciate

macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 24 Sep 2009 15:26

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">I think you also have to remove the two tie-bars from the rear running-gear to the body, then, with the car raised, the whole rear axle can be pivoted around the trailing arms.

In my vast experience (two tank removals and one fit!!) it is probably best to remove the whole of the rear suspension. It's a little more fiddly, what with disconnecting the brake pipes and handbrake cable, but apart from that there are only 2 more bolts than leaving the running gear in place (2 trailing arms in addition to the 2 tie rods and 2 shock absorbers). This gives unhindered access and makes the job a whole lot easier in the long term.

My biggest tip, though, is to be VERY careful when undoing the tank-straps. Both my removals have resulted in the straps twisting - one set so bad I had to replace them, the other set were able to be "re-formed"! I'd soak the bolts in a good drenching of WD40-type penetrant and let that soak in first.

I hope this will be of some help to you - good luck, it's not too bad a job if you have the space and equipment to raise the back end.

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 24 Sep 2009 15:33

Follow the book (workshop or Haynes Manual) and make sure you have enough room to manouvre the tank from under the car.
Take care with the brake hose, don't overstretch it.

Personally I'd remove the tank together with the fuel filler pipe.

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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
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earlosborne55
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Postby earlosborne55 » 24 Sep 2009 15:57

Thank you both...I have somewhat advantage all lines are removed to be replaced. Question...what did you use to hoist enough to get the tank past the axle?

Beans
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Postby Beans » 24 Sep 2009 16:14

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by earlosborne55</i>

...what did you use to hoist enough to get the tank past the axle ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sorry can't help you there as I use this whenever possible ...

Image

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

earlosborne55
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Postby earlosborne55 » 24 Sep 2009 16:16

One can only wish for such a setup :)

macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 24 Sep 2009 21:54

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">There are probably loads of different ways of doing this, but I'll suggest 2, not knowing what facilities you have.

<b>CAUTIONARY NOTE:</b>Undo the shocks at the bottom if you can or they'll stick up so far that you'll have to raise the car an extra foot or so to gain clearance! With the wheels left on, the assembly is heavier and you will need to raise the car higher, but you have more stability when man-handling the assembly out of the way. With the wheels off, the whole assembly is a lot lighter and you don't have to raise the car as high, but the whole assembly is quite unstable. When lifting the car, be sure to raise it high enough so that you can roll the whole axle assembly backwards in one piece.

Option 1)

With my wheels left on to ease withdrawal later, I jacked the rear end of the car up using a (large) trolley-jack, with the saddle of the jack resting under the diff housing. I then put axle-stands slightly forward of the trailing arm mounting points, leaving the trolley jack in place while I undid all the bolts. Once all bolts were undone, I lowered the trolley-jack and the whole assembly came down under control. If you don't have the luxury of a trolley jack, then

Option 2)

If you only have a normal jack, you could undo all the bolts with the car sat on the ground, then "walk" the car up by jacking each side up a few inches at a time and using axle-stands to hold the car while you take the jack to the other side. As the car raises, so the assembly will stay on the ground and once you have clearance, it can simply be rolled back.

I hope this hasn't been teaching your granny to suck eggs, but good luck. I didn't find it too daunting, but a bit of grunting and puffing and all went okay.

</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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earlosborne55
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Postby earlosborne55 » 24 Sep 2009 22:23

Thank you Mac...yes I have a large 2 car garage so I have the equipment to do it your way...I never thought of just rolling the axle backward or forward and just dropping the tank...My air tools and compressor will get a workout.....thanks again....cheers

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 25 Sep 2009 00:36

You are correct, this subject has come up litterally 100's of times because it is a real issue for most owners.

Please search it in the forum for extra's but here are two really good tips:

1. The most important of all - The tank straps are bolted to a very funny stud. This stud can be described as a bolt with a thread out each side so the hex head is actually in the middle. The nuts and the hex are 19mm

This means that the strap is actually hard against one face and the other face is hard against the body. The strap side of threads is always full of dirt and usually rusted so it jams the nut and the stud turns. This gets you no where because you can not twist the strap.

The solution is to look inside the car where the other side of this tank stud protrudes. You quickly see two in the spare wheel well but have to remove the seats and take off the rear firewall trim panel to see the other two. Now you have a fighting chance, place a new nut on these clean protruding threads and lock it down. Wire brush teh threads under the car, soak the nuts under the car with suitable penetrating oil and then undo them. The frozen nuts on the tank strap side now have to come off, not twist up the strap. You can also try to cut a 19mm spannner very short, grind it thin and try to slip it onto the hex under the tak strap so that you jamit that way but I have not tried that.

2. Cut the single brake hose in the way and buy a new one, the hose will be 30 years old and rubbish or close to rubbish anyway. The brakes are your life after all.

Tip: Wear goggles to cover your eyes from 30 years of falling dirt!

Jolyon

earlosborne55
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Postby earlosborne55 » 25 Sep 2009 02:05

Thanks for the heads-up Jolyon...cheers

Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 25 Sep 2009 02:07

I have had good results by raising the rear of the car on jackstands,undoing the shock bottoms, the rear ends of the upper arms and ofcourse the brake hose. (As much as you may not want to bleed the brakes this is a must!) of course as your hose is already off this is not a problem! With the axle lowered it is possible to just squeeze the tank out and back in. It would be nice to have a hoist, then there would be enough room to have a helper hold the tank in place while you do up the straps. That is not a fun job lying under the car!
BTW: I repaired my tank and sealed it myself. If I was to do it again I would take it to a radiator shop and have them do it. It would likely be cheaper, with better results and a warranty and would certainly be a lot easier!
Enjoy!
Rich

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 25 Sep 2009 02:42

I've always wondered about raising the car by jacking up the differential and worry about damaging it or putting on that extra weight of the car on the axle shaft loints at the differential. Am I worrying about nothing?

Of course lowering the axle by differential would only involve the rear axle weight, no worries.



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Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 25 Sep 2009 06:15

In British Car shops I have worked in the diff was always considered a safe place to jack a car. Certainly safer than under sheet metal which may or may not be rusty. I never saw damage occur to a diff by jacking.

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nick
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Postby nick » 25 Sep 2009 23:27

I removed my exhaust. I was not able to get the tank out without doing so.

nick

dave.c
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Postby dave.c » 26 Sep 2009 20:04

I would order a new pair of bumpstops unless you've already replaced
them.
ATB Dave

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