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Removing Air Pump for Fuel Economy

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nguada
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Removing Air Pump for Fuel Economy

Postby nguada » 12 Sep 2009 10:47

Will removing the air pump improve the MPG?

If correct how do I removed?

I am concern about the rail that injects the air

Odd
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Postby Odd » 12 Sep 2009 11:18

Why should it improve mileage?
It simply injects air (=dilutes the exhaust) into the exhaust AFTER the exhaust valve.
Thus improving oxidation of some hot components in the exhaust gas...

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 12 Sep 2009 11:32

Nguada, where do you live. It can help with answers, if we know.

Removing the pump, or its drive belt, will liberate the small amount
of horse power it takes to drive the thing, & it's one less thing to
go wrong, but you won't see much change at the bowser.

If you are somewhere where polution testing occurs, it could
however, just make the difference between pass & fail.

Hasbeen

Marko
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Postby Marko » 12 Sep 2009 11:37

it will because it will free that ammount of work that is needed to pump air to a 2-3 bar pressure that is in the exhaust. better MPG

second benefit is the reduction of total mass of the car. better MPG

third benefir is simplification of the whole enigne bay, less component = less posibility of something going wrong. whitch means less time spent under the car.


you asked how do you remove it?

get the workshop manual from the jclay's site , there you have all of the information on servicing the air pump instalation, each paragraph starts with a removal of the component.

last thing that you will need to do is find a suitable plugs to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold.


A WORD OF WARNING.

Don't remove the airpump if youre not shure that you can pass MOT without one.

edit:

sorry hasbeen , you wrote your post while i was still writing mine [:o)]

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 12 Sep 2009 13:44

Nothing to be sorry about Marko, the more the better in my book.

Hasbeen

nguada
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Postby nguada » 13 Sep 2009 11:07

Thanks for the advise, I live in South Florida.

Here they stop the testing few years back

The car came with weber downdraft double barrel carburators, I saw other posts that they are not too frienly at the pump.

I only get 23 MPG.

Odd
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Postby Odd » 13 Sep 2009 11:56

23 MPusG
- then you'd probably be much better off changing out that entire carb setup for a UK type pair of SU carbs
(or the original twin Stromberg CD setup). Those Webers are known to be mileage pigs...

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 13 Sep 2009 17:51

19 mpg with mine! I should have had a V8!

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jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 13 Sep 2009 22:06

I'll say!! My 3.9 with 3.45 rear will do 22mpg.

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Odd
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Postby Odd » 14 Sep 2009 09:37

My 3.9 have managed 29.55 MPusG (35.49 MPukG) once, and usually do like 27 MPusG (33 MPukG)
so maybe it's time for nguada to change out more than just the carbs?

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 14 Sep 2009 10:34

It might be all the extra weight. Cleaning products weighs more than dirt.

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Sep 2009 20:02

The weights savings is negligible compared to total weight of the car. Performance/milage savings will be more psychological than actual. This is not a Formula 1 car where weight savings and tenths of a second matter.

I have gotten just over 40mpg (imp.) but 36 is more realistic. Of course if you do a lot of waiting at stop lights you get 0 mpg which doesn't do the overall very good.

(I think jclay must have a heavy foot.)[:D]


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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 16 Sep 2009 01:51

Yep on the heavy foot!!

Also, the Mcguiars truck stops here once a month!!

jclay

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