Hi everyone, i´m just about to adjust my re-skinned doors on my bare body shell (on a sort of castor wheels), and i´m concerned about the "flexibility" of the bodyshell. I´ve noticed a gap variation of almost 1mm at the rear top of the door depending at which point you jack up the car. I´ve refitted the suspension so the car is resting on its wheels. My question is mainly for Beans: Did you manage to complete your door gap adjustment without the engine fitted, as in your images, or is it imperative to refit the heavy lump for a proper alignment job?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>
Sorry, according to Peter not a proper restoration on my car [:p]
Or as Hasbeen stated
[quote]<i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>
...Pitty about those door-shut-lines. You've just blown any chance you may have had in concourse competitions. No body is ever going to believe they were like that, when they left the factory<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
[:D]
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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>
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