Thank you Mr Lucas!

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 25 Aug 2009 19:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Cobber

I wouldn't bother buggerising around trying to clean the contacts in the switch, just replace it. But when you do replace it you must fit some relays on the light circuit it's self!

And to hell with the argument: " But then my car will not be original"

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New switches aren't as robust as original ones apparently but take pictures when you dismantle. I didn't and spent some time figuring which way it went back together, which is NO and which is NC, etc.

Relays should be added as suggested, they are small and can be hidden if desired so no one can tell anyway. Does a concourse judge even exist anywhere in the world for a TR7?

I have a relay set but haven't installed yet, maybe this winter (or not what with yellow TCT getting all the attention.)

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

tom bauer · Postby **tom bauer** » 25 Aug 2009 22:39

the trick for reliable lights is to take the switch completely apart and fit silver contacts where contact is made. i don't agree that it has anything to do with current draw, it is just that lucas is cheap crap and they failed to care that copper oxidizes.

tom

it's not how fast you go, it's how quickly you go fast

Cobber · Postby **Cobber** » 26 Aug 2009 01:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tom bauer

the trick for reliable lights is to take the switch completely apart and fit silver contacts where contact is made. i don't agree that it has anything to do with current draw, it is just that lucas is cheap crap and they failed to care that copper oxidizes.

tom
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Well the melted remains of some of the switches I've seen tends to indicate that current draw has a everything to do with switch failure!
Even it you can find and fit silver contacts, your still got all that current running through the next weakest link, the dip switch!
By fitting relays you will only have a few milliamps running through it too. And all good auto electricians and manufacturers of halogen lights insist that relays must be fitted with any lighting upgrades to all cars!

I might seem a bit paranoid on the subject but quite a few years ago a good mate and he was also my business partner was killed when the lights failed and he hit a bloody great tree! The investigation revealed that the accident was due to excessive speed and an overloaded lighting circuit (only the day before, he had fitted some driving lights without relays, he had just tapped into the high beam circuit. (Against all advice from his mates present when he did it, I might add)

So since then nearly every car I've owned has had relays fitted to the lighting circuits (if they're upgraded or not) in fact like the old rally teams used to do (and still might do for all I know)I fit separate systems on each side so if one side fails I still have the other. Over the top? Probably but there's nothing like having your mate killed to focus you on not going the same way!

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Hasbeen · Postby **Hasbeen** » 26 Aug 2009 01:22

A few months back, or even a year or two, I went through 2 new light
switches in a couple of weeks. The last one lasted less than 50Km.

I then had the things relayed, by the local auto electrician, for
the vast expence of about A$60. Not too bad, when you realise that a
light switch, in Oz cost A$92, at last count.

I have now got used to lights that, as the Honda add says, just work.

Hasbeen

Cobber · Postby **Cobber** » 26 Aug 2009 01:39

A couple of years or so ago I fitted a new indicator switch to my TR the bloody thing didn't last a hour before melt down! So I took it back to the supplier and exchanged it for another. But before I fitted the replacement I relayed the indicator circuit so only a few milliamps would have to pass through the switch, thereby preventing another meltdown! 

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Cobber · Postby **Cobber** » 26 Aug 2009 08:16

OK here's the promised: Idiots guide to fitting head light relays!

I use New Era brand relays these are made in Japan and are very reliable but Hella, Bosch and Ingram make good relays too, avoid the el-cheapo stuff and Lucas!

Hella Australia has an excellent site with heaps of good imfo:
http://db.hella.com.au/container.html
I am going to refer to various pages of their catalogue to provide the diagrams to help explain. so for the purpose of this exercise we will use Hella relays but the set should be the same for other brands.

First select the relays you wish to use they come in different current carrying capacities so if in doubt go for the higher capacity unit.
A pair of 30 amp relays should do the trick. 1 relay for high beam the other for low.
So here is the Hella model 3082: http://db.hella.com.au/container.html

You will need to mount your relays close to the lights so as to simplify the wiring. Intercept the wiring loom close to the each light
For high beam the blue/white wire from the dip switch should go to terminal #86, the terminal #85 should go to ground, a power supply from the battery + terminal should go to terminal #30 of the relay ( some relays have an in built fuse in this case you will need a fuse or circuit breaker between the battery + and the #30 terminal) and you should run a pair of wires from the 2 #87 terminals to the the high beam terminals of the headlight globes.
For the low beam do the same except instead of the blue/white wire from the switch connect the blue/red wire from the dip switch to the #89 terminal and the wires from the #87 terminals should be connected one for each side to the low beam terminals of the headlight globes. The remaining head light globe terminal should go to ground.
Note some cars have blue/white on one side and blue/grey on the other for high beam and blue/red and blue/pink for low beam.

You could use a duel relay such as Hella model 3051: http://db.hella.com.au/container.html

Instructions: http://db.hella.com.au/downloads/911-350-23.pdf

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Maxwell · Postby **Maxwell** » 26 Aug 2009 08:36

Cobber...

Thanks for that. Providing my lights don't fail, I'll look into
it soon!

Maxwell [:)]

Anonymous

Thank you Mr Lucas!

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