Engine Oil (Modern) for Triumph TR7

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 10 Aug 2009 22:20

Cheers guys - Castrol GTX 20W50 it is then, and I'll get some quality anti-freze as well.

Thanks for your help with this - only the gearbox and diff to sort out (new thread!).

Mac.

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 23 Aug 2009 22:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GSCReno

I have used Castrol GTX for 25 years without an oil related failure. Although I'm sure that some of our Canadian friends will dispute this, keep in mind that some will argue anything. Oil brands, production numbers, etc. Maybe I should wait until I've posted 9500 times to have an opinion... Cheers, Scott
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Cheers Scott, your opinion counts to me. Don't worry about the other 9360 odd posts!

Cheers,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

silverseven · Postby **silverseven** » 24 Aug 2009 02:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GSCReno

I have used Castrol GTX for 25 years without an oil related failure. Although I'm sure that some of our Canadian friends will dispute this, keep in mind that some will argue anything. Oil brands, production numbers, etc. Maybe I should wait until I've posted 9500 times to have an opinion... Cheers, Scott
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

hmmmmmm I'll dispute the fact that there are no Canadians here with 9500 posts [;)]
(guess that what you are really referring to would be the fact that 20/50 wouldn't work very well with our cold temps eh???)

I'm on gtx 20w50 since forever and have often used my car until November without any real starting problems other than maybe a longer crank to moove the thick oil.......and honestly don't think there's many (if any) that use their cars in real winter conditions where the 20/50 would have the consistancy of molasses (ie -20 or lower) ....

With that covered,the issue of modern synthetics breaking down seals is false, they have be greatly modified over the years, and the seal swell rate for the major brands is now on par with other mineral based oils.
NB, but note that synths do have detergents that could possibly wash away some of the gunk in the engine that perhaps used to seal the dino-oiled areas...............
Some very outspoken and experienced experts (ie Ray Bohacz, who just recently wrote an article in Hemmings on exactly this kind of subject) have mentioned that on a properly rebuilt late model engine (our 70's tech engines could fall into this category), you could opt to use a 10w40 true synthetic, instead of the classic mineral 20-50 with no ill effects......and therefore benefit with the cold start protection, and less heat robbing friction, that a true quality synthetic offers.......

(for arguments sake, I'm still considering making the switch )

Ron.

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 24 Aug 2009 04:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by silverseven

hmmmmmm I'll dispute the fact that there are no Canadians here with 9500 posts [;)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Let see Ron....we'd need you, me and a couple more like us to make that one Canadian.

I use 20-50w band name Castrol, Quaker State, don't care. I change my oil just before lay up (end of November, beginning of December for the winter's projects)...but then our December is Ontario's October. Where they get snow we get rain. (we get one white Xmas out of ten historically). Not a synthetic fan as I like to change my oil periodically and don't drive enough any more to make synth worth while. Transmission is another story. If I had a new engine and drove lots that would be another story.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Hoops · Postby **Hoops** » 11 Apr 2010 16:22

Whats the recommendations on the best oil for a 7? Need to do an oil change.

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 11 Apr 2010 17:12

With the quality of oils today any 20W-50 brand name will be more than fine. I buy what ever happens to be on sale (I have a jug or two on hand ahead of time). That usually happens to be Castrol or Quaker State that goes on sale at Canadain Tire a couple of times a year (that's why I buy ahead of time for significant savings). The brands in your country may vary.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Hoops · Postby **Hoops** » 11 Apr 2010 18:01

Cheers, will get some tomorrow!

gave the car a good polish today....

PeterTR7V8 · Postby **PeterTR7V8** » 11 Apr 2010 19:16

20W-50 mineral oil. Avoid synthetic.

Car looks very tasty. [:)]

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 11 Apr 2010 20:04

I've just bought this mineral oil for my sprint, think it was around 16 quid. it's got seal swell agent to stop leaks too. Not that i'm suggesting you have any!

Rob.

danny · Postby **danny** » 11 Apr 2010 20:05

Why is synthetic oil to be avoided?

I was thinking of using this in my next change

Danny
1980 TR7 fhc Brooklands green
1967 Spitfire Mk3 Signal red
1953 Ford Anglia E494A Black
View my Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/index.php/danny
http://tr7-n-spitfire.blogspot.com/

Hoops · Postby **Hoops** » 11 Apr 2010 20:48

Cheers, will try that Halfords Classic 20W50 [:)]

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 11 Apr 2010 20:58

fully synthetic oils have a detergent to help keep engines clean, which is good when using it from new. If you use fully synthetic oil on an old dirty engine which has spent most of its life being fed with mineral oil then all that built up sludge which has safely been stuck to the internals will suddenly become washed off and pumped round the engine blocking up the oil galleries possibly causing starvation and engine failure. I've heard of engines getting gummed up when synthetic and minerals have been mixed, and also of engines leaking because of the synthetic oils eating the seals. i've also heard that what i'm saying is rubbish because "i use fully synthetic in my MGBGT and it's been fine" naming no names! It's up to you but thems the reasons.

Now, as for a fully rebuilt engine with new seals being run in then synthetic must be avoided as there's got to be some contact for the engine to run in. Once the engine is run in, is clean and has been drained of all mineral oil it could be possible to run it on synthetic but i really don't think the TR7 engine would benifit from it and more importantly, neither would your wallet!

Rob.

Terry B · Postby **Terry B** » 11 Apr 2010 22:01

What about adding a zinc additive? This seems to be a hot topic on a lot of the British car sites. It seems that the oil companies have removed it over the past few years. The reasoning I heard is to protect the cam. I have heard of cams only lasting a couple of hundred miles after a rebuild.

Any thoughts

Terry B

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 11 Apr 2010 22:24

personally i doubt any engine that only lasted a couple of hundred miles failed because of the oil. you could put the worst spec engine oil in a newly (properly) rebuilt engine and still expect to see many thousands of miles. You can add things like slick50 and possibly molyslip (i've only used that in knackered diffs) to fully synthetic oil but to be honest, oils are good enough these days without using additives. You're still left with the problem of the detergent washing the crap into the oil galleries and the chemicals in it eating the seals. There is no point putting synthetic into a TR7 engine. Stick to the 20 / 50, change the oil and filter frequently and you'll have no probs. You have to remember that these are cars built by British Leyland using parts from family saloons, not thoroughbred ferraris or Lambos!

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 12 Apr 2010 16:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Terry B

What about adding a zinc additive? This seems to be a hot topic on a lot of the British car sites. It seems that the oil companies have removed it over the past few years. The reasoning I heard is to protect the cam.

Any thoughts
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The reason I've heard doesn't mention the cam but affects push rod engines (older cars) not overhead cam engines. Something to do with valve lifters spalling which is a problem of the Spitfire and others. They lessened the zinc to extend the life of the catalytic converters which were phased in as pushrods phased out. It was a gradual thing. There are oils out there that claim to still have enough zinc in them and some high end oils that say their's are good enough but refuse to specify how much. Makes you wonder why. A google should let you know which is which. But for our engines not as critical but you can use a brand that still has some to be safe.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Anonymous