The Dreaded Clutch Problems

[moestr7v8]

On Tuesday just got home in the V8 and I lost the clutch, checked the fluid,empty,so I changed the old master cylinder put new seals in then the same with the slave cylinder put it all back and tried bleeding the system,that worked fine no air bubbles,locked it up tried the clutch pedal and it moves about a quarter travel and then it is solid tried several times over still the same effect.
What am I doing wrong any help on this will be very much appreciated [;)]
Cheers
Moe

[PeterTR7V8]

Remove the slave cylinder & confirm that the pedal has full travel. If that is OK it could be the bits inside the bellhousing. Can you get under the car, remove the inspection cover (if you have one) & confirm that the pushrod, fork & release bearing are connected correctly.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[moestr7v8]

Thanks for the reply Peter,yes the pedal has full travel without any fluid in the master cylinder,I also pulled the slave cylinder out,left the fluid pipe connected pushed the piston back depressed the clutch pedal and I had movement on the slave piston, I will check it out underneath for an inspection panel but I am pretty sure there is not one.
Cheers
Moe

[Ianftr8]

Hi Moe,

Take great care when looking and pushing things around on the clutch lever as they have a habbit of falling apart and then its a gearbox out job!
I managed to get my master and slave cylinder off the car with the pipe connected the other week and was able to Bench test the system with it hanging in the garage - it may be something like a seal caught up or not straight.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

[PeterTR7V8]

On the V8 half of the gearbox bellhousing is left exposed & the inspection plate is a 1/2 circle piece of metal that bolts onto the underneath of the motor to cover the part of the bellhousing that isn't covered by the back of the engine. Sometimes the plate moves on to a better life in another garage. I don't know if it is better to have one but I'm sure mine is the source of an annoying rattle.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Steve @ SandS]

Either the pivot pin has gone through the clutch fork or(more likely) when you removed the slave the fork was pulled off the pivot pin.
Unfortunately it is gearbox out either way.

Steve @ S&S Preparations

[moestr7v8]

Hi Peter I have had a look underneath and there is an inspection hole there but I just can't get underneath far enough to see pivot pin.
Ian and Steve thanks for the info, that's the job I did not want to do [:(]I will try and see if I can get further under the car to see in the inspection hole and hope!!!!!!!!!
Cheers
Moe

[Workshop Help]

You will be pleased to know one of my recent articles is here for you. Search the forum for it. One has to wonder, did you hone the slave cylinder and then polish it to a mirror finish? As for the clutch pushrod, after removing the slave cylinder, is the pushrod still attached to the pivot fork?

Mildred Hargis

[moestr7v8]

Thanks Mildred,Peter,Ian and Steve what it looks like is the pivot pin has gone through the release arm so as Steve said it is a gearbox out job.
Thanks for all your advise and help on this problem [;)]
Cheers
Moe

[wedggie perrin]

<b>Bugger!</b>

[bmcecosse]

Is there absolutely no way to hook this all back together - without removing the gearbox? Perhaps cut 2" diam access hole(s) in the bellhousing with a hole-saw - to get at the parts ?

[TR7Aaron]

I just removed a 5 speed tranny from my 1980 parts car. If you need some pictures of it to maybe form an alternate plan of action rather than taking out the tranny, let me know and I'll post them asap.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

[busheytrader]

[quote].............the pivot pin has gone through the release arm so as Steve said it is a gearbox out job.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Exactly what happened to me many years ago. [:(] The clutch pedal went all the way down to the bottom and when it returned back up it locked up solid. Luckily I was 20 yards from home. 2.0L engine and gearbox out, V8 plus gearbox and S&S conversion back in[:)]9 months later.

But you've already got a V8.

Adam




TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[PeterTR7V8]

With a hoist, a good toolkit & a determined attitude you can extract the gearbox in 2 hours. With no hoist & a couple of unco-operative bolts it could take all day. It may make more sense to get it to a workshop.

Hmm, what about putting the car on jack stands & removing the sump to give you access to the open bottom half of the bellhousing.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[Steve @ SandS]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>

With a hoist, a good toolkit & a determined attitude you can extract the gearbox in 2 hours. With no hoist & a couple of unco-operative bolts it could take all day. It may make more sense to get it to a workshop.

Hmm, what about putting the car on jack stands & removing the sump to give you access to the open bottom half of the bellhousing.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Wouldn't work, the flywheel will still be in the way.Only way is exhaust off and drop the gearbox.

Steve @ S&S Preparations