Postby Peter Nuss » 13 Jul 2008 15:19
That doesn't sound too bad. NC is high humidity though. I'm assuming it's pretty stock other than a carb and intake change.
1. I check for rust under the clutch master cylinder between the fire wall and the wheel well joint.
2. The lower rear suspension attachment point on the body, lift the carpet and look at the bracket the seat is on where it meets the rear bulkhead, you don't want to see cracks in the paint or metal.
3. Check the front strut towers also, sometimes they pull away from the fender
4. Look at the K-member, you don't want to see a lot of damage there or the frame rails.
5. The engine should idle very smooth. If it doesn't plan on a cam change, the average mileage for a flat cam is around 60,000, but, mine was flat on one lobe and I had 6 dished lifters at 42,000.
6. If the transmission sounds a little noisy while driving , lift the shift lever straight up, it if moves an inch or so and the noise goes away, the shifter rail bushings are shot.
7. Look for any signs of the gas tank leaking, then have a tendency to rust out.
8. Check every electrical device on the car, they are not hard to fix but, can be time consuming, especially the cooling fans. Most people have a problem getting them right after changing the intake.
9. Power steering racks have a tendency to leak, might want to check that.
10. Check the brake and clutch fluid, if it's not clear looking figure on a complete rebuild of that system, most of these cars have non function rear brakes by now if not properly maintained.
11. Remove the oil cap and look inside the engine, it should be really clean in there with just a touch of golden color if the engine has been properly maintained.
If you end up buying it you should come back here for some "what should I do first" advise But, have about $2000 with you, when you do....well, at least $1200
TR8
