Fuse Panel

DAIAIR · Postby **DAIAIR** » 22 Mar 2009 18:24

Purchased a 79 model that was sitting for a few years, hard to start but does run. Appears to have a head gasket problem, does not over heat but water coming from under a headbolt between #2 & 3 cylinder.
Here is the most perplexing problem, finally gotten all the electric stuff to work but only if the fuses are not fully pushed into their sockets. At first almost nothing worked, so started checking fuses. I noticed when pushing the fuses back in whatever I was working on worked momentarily, so partially installed fuses now everything works. Any suggestions? Also wipers work too good, will not turn off???

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 22 Mar 2009 19:56

If the car has stood for a few years it is best to check all the connectors, contacts and earth points and clean them thoroughly.

Which side of the head is leaking ?

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

REPLIC8 · Postby **REPLIC8** » 22 Mar 2009 20:10

I expect the metal blades in the fuse box are slack. As you push the fuse in it's making contact with the narrow part of the holder, but when pushed fully home it's probably not connecting well. Try removing all the fuses and squashing the pins closer together then replace the fuses, should be a snug fit.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 22 Mar 2009 20:47

I ran a late 1980's Mercedes 300E (in the late 90's) and it was 100% reliable apart from the electric windows.

Every 6 months one pair of diagonally opposed windows would stop working, then the other pair 6 months later. The fuses were the same cylindrical items as our 7's and the metal at the ends had oxidised. Rotating the fuses in the holder got them working again. Cleaning the original 12 year old fuses with a scotchbrite pad made it permanent.

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Underdog · Postby **Underdog** » 22 Mar 2009 21:11

This is a common problem with the old style, glass tube fuse holders. MGBs are notorious for it but thier box sits under the hood/bonnet which agravates it a bit. As Adam sugests, a good cleaning of the contact blades and fuses should take care of it. Some go as far as fitting a modern fuseblock in the MGs. A little more involved project on a Wedge for sure.
I have an old Yamaha motorcycle that I replaced the fuseblock on with the modern spade type. On them, the metal blades become so brittle, they break off! I learned of the fuseblock being a problem on the XS11 website. Low and behold, I tried the old trick of squezing them together and they promptly snaped off.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

DAIAIR · Postby **DAIAIR** » 23 Mar 2009 03:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Beans

If the car has stood for a few years it is best to check all the connectors, contacts and earth points and clean them thoroughly.

Which side of the head is leaking ?

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It is leaking from an outside headbolt, one that is just above the exhaust manifold just below spark plugs for #2 & 3 cylinders.

tom bauer · Postby **tom bauer** » 23 Mar 2009 17:08

wipers will not turn off unless you have blades installed to load the motor and let it stop running quickly enough..............

tom

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 23 Mar 2009 19:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DAIAIR

It is leaking from an outside headbolt, one that is just above the exhaust manifold just below spark plugs for #2 & 3 cylinders<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
First check were the coolant is really coming from (between head and block (gasket) or maybe a crack in the head).
If it is the gasket try to retorque the head bolts as per the book (undo Â¼ turn and retorque to specified torque setting, use sequence mentioned in the manual). But of course there is the option of a warped head.
If it is none of these a pressure test of the head will be needed [B)]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

DAIAIR · Postby **DAIAIR** » 11 Apr 2009 01:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Beans

If the car has stood for a few years it is best to check all the connectors, contacts and earth points and clean them thoroughly.

Which side of the head is leaking ?

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

DAIAIR · Postby **DAIAIR** » 11 Apr 2009 01:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DAIAIR

Purchased a 79 model that was sitting for a few years, hard to start but does run. Appears to have a head gasket problem, does not over heat but water coming from under a headbolt between #2 & 3 cylinder.
Here is the most perplexing problem, finally gotten all the electric stuff to work but only if the fuses are not fully pushed into their sockets. At first almost nothing worked, so started checking fuses. I noticed when pushing the fuses back in whatever I was working on worked momentarily, so partially installed fuses now everything works. Any suggestions? Also wipers work too good, will not turn off???
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Have made some real progress on these problems, Beans I beleieve you were right. Many of the head bolts were not correctly torqued, after going thru the sequence no signs of water. Also the temp was running at 3/4 before, yet not overheating. After torquing the head temps barely reach 1/2 way mark. Car just purrs now, no sputtering or popping when driven. Not road legal yet but I drive it up and down a few roads near my shop at the airport, about 30 minutes each day. Installed new wires, cap and rotor. I am going to let a local mechanic who is familiar with these dual Zenith Carbs set them. Maybe some hope yet for the old gal.
As for the electrical problems, I sprayed some stuff we use in aviation on the fuse panel. Everything comes on now pretty much everytime when turned on. Windshield wipers still keep running, I believe the switch is bad on the steering column??? When you turn it to off, it still runs.
Going to replace all the hoses and have radiator checked, can hear small pin hole leak when I shut down.
If all keeps going this good might have her in the paint shop soon.

cliff · Postby **cliff** » 11 Apr 2009 02:41

DAIAIR, Concerning the head bolts being loose [stretched] you might consider the approach the Mildred took to remedy her head bolt delima. She went to her local bolt supplier, purchased some grade 8 bolts of the correct length and installed them to proper torque. No more problems!!!![:D]
If it isn't broken then you're not looking close enough. Just a quote from my aviation past.

Cliff[8D]

Don't use force, get a bigger hammer!!

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 12 Apr 2009 03:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DAIAIR
Windshield wipers still keep running, I believe the switch is bad on the steering column??? When you turn it to off, it still runs.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If the parking switch at the wiper motor isn't adjusted right (or the arm that acuates it is broken) your wipers won't turn off. Can be adjusted with wiper motor loose but still in place.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Rich in Vancouver · Postby **Rich in Vancouver** » 14 Apr 2009 03:02

Spyder may well be right.
I had the same problem with my FHC and it turned out that the parking switch on the motor just need adjustment.

My car currently has all of the lights working, working wipers and a full complement of working guages. The radio even works.
I am a happy man.....for now![:D]

Cheers,
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Cobber · Postby **Cobber** » 14 Apr 2009 05:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver
My car currently has all of the lights working, working wipers and a full complement of working guages. The radio even works.
I am a happy man.....for now![:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You've gone and done it now!
You have said the magic words to summon up Lucas the Prince of Darkness! [}:)]
Lucas will out to get you now, you've gone and put your self up on the radar! [:D]

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

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