By solder water I assume you mean flux. Make sure you are using flux for electrical work not plumbing flux. Electrical solder may have a resin core. The easier to use old fashioned solder is harder to come by as more often silver solder is used but has a higher melting point.
Make sure the two metal surfaces are clean of finger oil and oxides. It is often easier to "tin" the two surfaces first. Put the flux on the surface (I don't rely on the flux in the core of the solder alone). Heat the surface to be tinned not the solder itself. Touching the solder to the hot surface will melt the solder so it flows onto the surface. If you heat the solder and not the surface of material to be tinned, the solder will melt but not stick to the cooler surface of the item to be soldered. Once the two pieces are tinned heat them up till the solder is melted. Add a little more solder if there isn't enough. You don't necessarily have to tin the two surfaces first but sometimes it is easier.
To recap: A failed solder job may due to:
dirty surfaces (oil or oxides). Oxides are quickly produced if there is not enough flux to isolate the the surface from the oxygen in the air.
Not getting the surfaces hot enough. The key is to get the surfaces hot enough to melt the solder and not the soldering iron to melt the solder. With some experience you can heat the surface and use the iron to help melt solder but care must be taken to not have the surface cooler than solder. Same as in plumbing although they use different solder and fluxes.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
