no cranky no starty

[motomadness1947]

So I got my exhaust system woos fixed and took the car for a drive yesterday with high detergent oil. Drove for about 10 miles and returned home. after about an hour I was going to go for another drive.
Turned the key, got lights on the dash, could hear the fuel pump, but no starter. When I turn the key to the start position, nothing zilch, nada.
Today I will check the ignition switch.
DOES ANYONE HAVE A SUGGESTION. IS THIS A COMMON FAULT SHOULD I HIT THE STARTER WITH A HAMMER

[Hasbeen]

Are you getting a clicking from the glove box?

Do the head lights work?

If the thing has been sitting for a while it could be battery terminals, if no head lights. If they work, try removing, cleaning & refitting all fuses. They can look clean, but not pass current so clean anyway.

Then look to the starter switch connections, & the starter connections.

I have found the hammer to the starter trick can work on a 7 after hibernation, but I'd look for poor connections first, & perhaps even clean the solenoid.

You can expect a few poor connections in the electrical system. With electrical gear, the old use it or loose it saying, was invented to describe Lucas electricals.

Hasbeen

[motomadness1947]

Okay, cleaned connections and charged the battery to full and yeah baby. started right up

Thanks Hasbeen

Bruce

[FI Spyder]

Your problems might not be over. I had the same problem(s) with my car. Initially every few years. Cleaned connector block to starter relay fixed it. Time before last relay connector cleaning didn't work. Sprayed silicone in ignition switch got it working. The last month it's been raining so didn't drive the car. Yesterday went to go into town and it just clicked, lights on in dash. Then it was dead, no click, no lights. The battery is new and I just had it on battery maintainer the previous days. Spraying silicone in ignition switch didn't work. Spraying electrical contact cleaner didn't work. Check battery just cause (assume nothing). It was up of course. Tried it again and everything was fine. Worked for the rest of the day. My theory is it took a while for the cleaner to work on the ignition switch contacts. I think some continuing spraying cleaner in ignition switch will eventually flush out switch contacts. I carry the cleaner in the trunk tool/parts case.

Any corrosion in the starter circuit can cause this. You have the contacts in the ignition switch, connector block by the steering column, connector block at the starter relay, contacts in the starter relay, connectors at the starter, battery contacts, ground connections in the battery connector block (by battery), connections to ground themselves and of course the battery itself (there may be others but not sure without checking wiring diagram). Any corrosion/resistance is accumulative so if there are multiple points of corrosion cleaning one might get it to go but all of them should be checked so cleaning one doesn't just shift the problem to the next.

I'm assuming for now my ignition switch is dirty and not worn. Time will tell. I can't specifically remember cleaning the ignition switch connector block when I had the dash apart (7 years ago) but something I'll check this winter. I did clean all connections at this time but possible something was missed.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[motomadness1947]

Yes you were correct it happened again. This time I tried the old hammer tap on the starter. And yes it started right up. so my problem is the starter. To bad i just put the exhaust system back on. So suspecting that this is the original starter, I will order a new one, tap as needed until it comes and install when it does. Oh yes, british cars make alcoholics our of mechanics and ordinary people.

Bruce

[saabfast]

Did you check for corrosion? I had intermittent starting (either worked or nothing) about 6 years ago and it was the small connection on the solenoid. It looked OK outside but when pulled off the wire inside the connector was green. Trimmed it back to bright copper and fixed a new spade connector and it has been OK since.

Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

[nick]

I have two cars that intermittently do this and have posted about it. Every time I think I have solved the problem it comes back. As FI Spyder says it could be almost anything. The only thing I have not tried is a new relay. My theory is the relay gets weak. It still closes but not well enough to pass the needed current to make the starter go. With my cars, when I turn the key nothing happens except the the relay clicks. If I successively turn the key two or three time it usually starts. For a while I was operating with the cover off of the relay. If it didn't go I reached across and manually closed the relay. It went every time.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[motomadness1947]

i hear the relay click but nothing else happens until I tap the starter with a light hammer. I want to replace the rear center engine/transmission mount anyway so I will drop the exhaust system and pull the starter and have a look. It could be the original and need some love

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Probably the contacts on the back of the power connecting bolts on the solenoid. They get burned and only make intermittent contact. I would go with a high torque unit.

Clay

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