Still won't start *sigh*

[Workshop Help]

Hey! What's with all the white hair and male super model couture I'm seeing in the above photo? That tool box doesn't have near enough tools in it. And, let's not forget, 'Too many cooks spoil the soup'.

Mildred Hargis

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Tied up last night so didn't get any further with this.

I'll try and take a look at the ballast system tonight, but I wouldn't want to bypass it as it's no longer there to stop the damage to the coil (or is it ok for a short period)?

I should be able to test this simply with volt meter surely[?]

# 9 volts with the key in the 'running' position (or whatever the 'lower' voltage should be)
# 12 volts when cranking
# 12 volts when cranking, 0 volts (or a very low voltage) when key released to 'running' equals problem

Still to check the carbs of course. I'll try and sort all of this out this evening/over the weekend.

Thanks for the tips, will report back.

Cheers

Chris

[Stag76]

The coil will run OK at 12V for a long time. There are lots of cars driving round with faulty ballast resistors bypassed.

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

[UKPhilTR7]

I have been reading all of the posts and can relate to how annoying it can be when these cars we love so much do not start. All I would say is keep at it as it is a great feeling when you will get her running.

It does appear that the question about electric or points ignition has not been answered. Did you ever find out which you have? Take the dizzy cap of and check to see if you can see a Chrome tube like item around an inch long with what looks like a clip. If you can it will be points. If not and you can see something small and plastic then you have electric. Not Tue best description both I hope it helps.

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Thanks for describing what to look for. I'll take a look when I have another stab tonight/tomorrow.

Cheers

Chris

[Dave Dyer]

Hi Chris,

You mention your not sure if its points or electronic ignition, to me this shows you haven't removed your distributor cap? Remove it snd check the contacts inside the cap, clean them or replace the cap, also clean and re-gap the points (if thats whats in there) if it doesn't cure your problem then its got to help when you do get it running.

Dave

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Cheers Dave, will do.

Just like to give a thumbs up to the group for all the help and suggestions. The forum is living up to its title.

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So, I only had enough daylight to check the carbs and fuel bowls and this is what I found:



and



I've cleaned them out and blew air through to the line to the carbs. I need to put a new gasket on the fuel pump before I try and start it as it's weeping oil. The pathetic wafer thin paper thing that came with it just isn't up to it. I've no idea why I ever thought it would be.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow morning. If that hasn't fixed it I'll move on to the other things on the list.

[Workshop Help]

What is it we're looking at here? Is it gas or water or mystery goo?

Mildred Hargis

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It is/was fuel with a nice layer of rust coloured sludge at the bottom.

In the second pic there's some sort of scum floating on top, not sure what that was. There was even 1/3 of a old rotten gasket in one!

[Beans]

Looks very much like water (and rust) and that does explain your symptoms.
If it is water it is time to drain the fuel tank completely and dry it out.
And this gives you a good excuse to inspect the tank's inside for corrosion ...

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[Hasbeen]

The fuel pump gasket has no effect on oil getting from the engine to the fuel. It merely stops oil leaking out between the pump & the engine block.

It is the pump diaphragm which prevents petrol getting into your oil, or oil into the petrol. Is your oil level rising, or your oil getting thin.

I would expect that oily scum came with a tank of petrol from a less careful petrol retailer. Of course I do know some people who add some diesel fuel to their petrol at each fill, so who knows what some previous owner had stuck in there.

With that water, any in line filter will be full, & the water wet paper struggling to pass fuel.

Hasbeen

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Yes the oil is weaping down the block. Want to do it now while I have the air filter box off.

If it still doesn't start I'll drain out the in-line fuel filter I put in and see if it's just water in there. I hope it's not. Draining and taking out the fuel tank is not what I had planned for this weekend. Ces't la vie!

My wife accused me of being happy it won't start so I can tinker with the engine. To be honest she's not completely wrong. I've never done anything beyond an oil change on an engine before so I'm happy to be learning something [:)]

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Update:

Still wouldn't start. Looked in the fuel bowls and there was fuel, but it seemed milky in colour, and there was what I assume was water also.

Seems like the suggestion of draining the fuel tank is the way to go. Time to research how to do that but I'm aware it isn't a fun job.

I also checked the voltage at the coil and with the key in the running position I got 6.3 volts, which seems a little low. Anyone any thoughts on that?

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Just read the service manual for fuel tank removal. Oh well, in for a penny......