Which Fuel Pump

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I took my fuel pump out to try and get at the filter but couldn't (screw head was too mashed up to unscrew it - great)....... so I'll order a new one, but which one is correct.

This is a pic of the current one:



But this doesn't look like any on sale now (the arm is a different shape). The car (and I hope engine) is a 1982, and you can see in the pic behind it a spacer is in use which would suggest it's a late model pump.

I'm sure the design of these things changes over time, but don't want to buy the wrong one.

Any advice, and if I just order the late model pump regardless of the change in design, anyone know where I can get it cheaper than £48.50 which is almost £20 more expensive than the old model at rummer bros?

Thanks in advance

Chris

[g4zur]

Morning Chris
I changed my pump a few months ago, Got it from ROBSPORT get all my spares from them, Cost about £25, Give them a call. Simon or Leon will sort you out, The pump I got stated "Spacer not required with this pump" Order two new bolts also as orignal ones will be too long, Worked great since fitting, Hope this helps Chris.
Regards Gareth.

G.P.Albrighton

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Thanks for that.

I'll give them a call.

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Gave them a call and was put onto their mechanic.

It seems the need for the spacer is purely down to the length of the arm on the back of the pump, and I gathered that either pump will work, just lose the spacer if using the version with a short arm (and fit a gasket in it's place I assume).

I hope that's right as the long arm version isn't widely available.

[Workshop Help]

We just went thru this the other day. Yes, the short arm pump will work just fine. Without the spacer.

I see your engine is not leaking enough rust preventative. Please do something about that as the corrosion is not attractive to the mini skirt bunch. They say it's,'Yucky!'.

Mildred Hargis

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Sorry for being thick, but I assume you mean there should have been a nice big oil spill rather than that little trickle?

Cheers

Chris

[FI Spyder]

What Mildred means that if there is a catastrophic failure of the patented British Leland Anti Rust Management System, there may not be enough anti rust material (some times known as motor oil and/or gear box oil) reaching the necessary parts. I have recently had such a failure when I just had the car up on jack stands to do a tire rotation. There was no material reaching the front of the oil pan and chips in the paint from road rock resulted in some surface rust forming on these areas. I may address that in near future by degreasing, Metalready, then taping off and spray painting with caliper paint as I'm not going to pull the pan in near future to address it. The adjustment in the rear of engine is a little excessive as a few drops will form at rest resulting in a spot or two on a piece of cardboard below it. The rear of the transmission is about right in that it keeps everything moist but not enough to drop anything. How ever that is enough to soften the rear transmission rubber mount which I have taken out, brushed with water based degreaser, soaked in Macguire's Vinyl and Rubber Restorer to stiffen it up. I reinstalled using Mildred's solution, using an old Ziploc round container cut down a bit and installed upside down, above the mount to act as an umbrella. It should get me through a couple more years (it's seven years old now). The next new one I'm going to tape off the metal mount parts and treat the rest with a layer of black or clear silicone to isolate it from the oil so I can return to factory style mounting. Don't know how it will work but may be a solution.

The up shot is make sure those gaps in the seals and gasket are correctly maintained. I'm not sure if Jaguar uses the same Anti Rust Management System but if they do, it will have a different part number and be five times as expensive.

The below picture shows compressor stay painted with caliper paint which brought this to my attention.





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