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How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Dave Dyer
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How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Dave Dyer » 25 Sep 2015 16:16

Hi Chaps,
My TR7v8 is on the road and I have now done about 150 miles in it. The engine goes well (once I sorted the cooling side out) brakes are good, the steering is hard work!, but it handles like a bus. It wallows on corners and is really spoiling my enjoyment.

I have uprated lowered springs all round. Black polly bushes on the front and hard rubber bushes on the rear.
It has Spax adjustable shock absorbers at the rear and uprated (but look standard) non-adjustable shocks on the front, not brand new but have had little use, mainly off the car on the shelf.
Anti dive kit also fitted. 14 inch alloys with 195/60 R14 tyres.

When you press on a corner of the car it is pretty solid and driving in a straight line is fine, but when you come to a corner I have to turn in early and hold on to the steering wheel with both hands while the car wallows and bobs around, almost like being in a boat on rough water!

Any ideas of where I should be concentrating to improve/cure the problem ?

But in the mean time, I would love to hear how your TR7 drives and what suspension set up you have ?

Cheers, Dave

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby dursleyman » 25 Sep 2015 18:03

I really like how my TR7 drives. It has S&S uprated springs at both ends with Kayaba dampers. Ride is just soft enough to be comfortable on our poorly surfaced local roads and turn in is excellent.
I am quite critical being an ex rally driver but am enjoying driving it a lot.
Russ

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby moestr7v8 » 25 Sep 2015 18:53

Hi Dave
Check your trailing arm bushes on your car, I had a similar problem on mine and found the bushes had disintergrated
so the boot was trying to overtake the bonnet on acceleration and serious wallowing on bends :D
Changed all the bushes to poly bushes and a great improvement.
Cheers
Moe
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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Chris Turner » 25 Sep 2015 21:22

I agree with both the above, Russ has the same set up as I have, uprated slightly lowered springs with KYB shocks, this gives a good compromise.
Moe is right, with worn trailing arm bushes, nothing else can stop the rear end movement.
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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby FI Spyder » 25 Sep 2015 21:22

I like how my TR7 drives, turns into the corners and asks me if that's all I got, up to and including the point where all four tires are just equally starting to loose their grip. All stock except for hard poly up front, soft poly at back. Don't know if shocks make much difference but KYB gas upfront and Koni on back which where there when I bought the car. The only change I would make is thicker anti roll bar on front. I don't know if anti dive kit would make a difference but it's not noticeable even on panic stops where I've locked up all four wheels (on stock brakes). Everything is 8 years and 20,000 miles old now. There is a slight understeer on slow corners which is part of the cars design and the thicker roll bar should help. What difference a slightly heavier engine would make I can't say.
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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby busheytrader » 25 Sep 2015 23:08

Hi Dave,

My setup is as per my signature below. All the bushes on my wedge have been uprated including those on the subframe. When replacing these I found some of the steel sleeves had partially disintegrated inside. I replaced these after the front and rear suspension bushes and found they improved the turn in noticeably. My rear Spax are a couple of clicks away from their minimum setting, anything more and the rear is bone jarring on our roads. The overall ride front and back is very firm.

When the original front dampers wore out, the front end became very floaty and lost its footing over poor surfaces. Is this close to what you described as wallowing?

Adam
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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear Axle, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1990 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Hasbeen » 26 Sep 2015 07:48

Dave if your steering is heavy fix it. First grease the rack, then check tie rod ends, then set the castor & camber as they should be. The factory settings are great for road use.

If it is still too heavy, enrol in a gym, perhaps you need some upper body building, as a 7/8 is only heavy if it is not in good condition & properly serviced, OR SOMEONE HAS FITTED A SILLY LITTLE STEERING WHEEL. I'm 75 & don't find mine too heavy.

Now to the wallowing. The most important thing to make a 7 really great to drive is one of the least fitted. Stiffer anti roll bars make the most important contribution to the cars, but are almost totally ignored by most owners.

You see cars with new stiff springs, heavy duty adjustable shocks, new bushes everywhere, new ball joints, anti dive & subframe lowering blocks/spacers, still running around on not only stock, but old roll bars that lost their temper back when I was a boy.

I guess this is not surprising as even most manufacturers seem to forget the things. In motor racing, back in the days when aircraft had wings & cars had springs, all those springs, wishbones coil overs etc. held the wheel more or less in place, & roll bars gave you handling. A quarter of an inch adjustment on a Brabham Repco rear anti roll bar would move the car from mild understeer to mild oversteer. They are that sensitive & important when the rest is right.

Triumph should have known this, but used the front roll bar as the front arm of a wishbone, making it hard to do anything with the thing useful with it. However if you want a car more sporty than boulevard roll bars are required.

I have my 7 basically stock, but perfect stock. All springs are original, but retempered to full strength. All bushes are polly, & steering lubrication is done. Even the shocks are only a little stiffer than stock. However the roll bars are custom made, 30% stiffer than stock. Fitting them was a bit of a pain, but they are what make my 7 a joy to drive. It is the best car I can find for a thrash through the ranges.

The 8 has 330 BHP, stiffer everything known to man including adjustable shocks, [including those roll bars] & mostly new. On smooth roads it is very quick, but in our border ranges, with not goat track, but less than smooth bitumen, the 7 will run away & hide from it. That stiff suspension is out of place on minor roads.

So first lubricate that rack, then fit some retempered roll bars as a minimum, but stiffer if you want good handling. If doing mine again I would stay at 30% on the front, but try 40% on the back. With an 8s power this may become a little tail happy at lower speeds, but should be great as the cornering speed climbs.

Good luck with getting the car you want, & really deserve after all that work.

Hasbeen

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby jeffremj » 28 Sep 2015 16:30

If the steering is stiff, jack up the front and see if the steering remains stiff - it should be nice and light and consistent (no stiff spots).

Another thing to look at, if the handling is bad, are the tyres. Check the tyre pressures: the rears should be higher than the fronts. I use 24 front and 28 rear. If pressures are OK, perhaps you have different makes on the front to those on the rears? This can cause unusual handling affects. Finally, perhaps your tyre make is a cheap brand?

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Dave Dyer » 28 Sep 2015 22:20

Thankyou All for your advice, help and info of your car set up. It all made good reading.

Moe and Chris. I've made a start and removed one of the trailing arms, fitted poly bushes and refitted. I'll start the other one tomorrow evening.

Adam, over slightly uneven surfaces, going round a bend, the car is moving diagonal from front to back. Example, the front left side will go up and down along with the right rear as it goes around the bend.

Hasbeen, a very interesting and informative read. I do have a uprated front anti roll bar in the shed, but haven't attempted to fit as I expect it will be a pain, but after I have tried everything else I will maybe give it a go.

Jeffremj, yes my tyres are unfortunately a cheap brand, for the size of 195/60R14 choice is poor. I should of gone for 185/60R14 as there is a huge choice with good makes.

Dursleyman, are your Kayaba dampers gas or standard?


Right on to steering. I haven't looked at the rack yet, but with the front raised its still a bit stiff, I'm starting to suspect the bottom ball joints, when I replaced them I pressed them in by pressing on the bottom and thought after I should of put the force just to edge.

Dave

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby moestr7v8 » 28 Sep 2015 23:23

Hi Dave
Silly question but when you replaced the bushes in the trailing arms did you replace the bushes in the tie rods as well?
The uprated front anti roll bar is a bit of a swine to fit, I think you can get bigger bore poly bushes if not you will have to ream out the existing ones, not an easy job, fitting an uprated anti roll bar is on my to do jobs list, Hasbeen is spot on with this upgrade.
I have Gas KYBs on the front suspension with uprated springs and Spax adjustables on the back and once the rear trailing arms were sorted the difference was brilliant.
Cheers
Moe
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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby jeffremj » 29 Sep 2015 10:17

To keep the speedo setup correctly, 195/60R14 is the correct tyre size. http://www.blackcircles.com have a reasonable selection.

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Dave Dyer » 29 Sep 2015 16:34

jeffremj wrote:To keep the speedo setup correctly, 195/60R14 is the correct tyre size. http://www.blackcircles.com have a reasonable selection.


I just looked and they do have better makes, damn!
I went with 'Tyres on my drive', they come to you and fit them, which I prefer, I have this thing about going to a tyre fitting centre, I've had a couple of bad experiences. But I should of made the effort to have got a better tyre!

I know the Wife will not let me have another set!

Dave

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Dave Dyer » 29 Sep 2015 22:57

Hi Moe,

No I'm just doing the rear trailing arms. The tie rods do have uprated rubber bushes, so I was going to leave them alone for now and test drive it to see if there is any difference.

I can also see what Hasbeen and you are saying regarding the anti roll bar, I'm itching to change it, but feel time is running out and I'll have to lay my car up for the winter, but with the weather the way it is at the moment that might not happen for a bit yet! (hopefully)

I also think I need to look into changing the shocks, I'm sure that will also help. They have had little use, but are still over 20 years old. Gas KYB's would be good to try, but they don't seem to be available.

Cheers,
Dave

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby Hasbeen » 30 Sep 2015 06:11

Dave, give your tyres a good coat of black shiny stuff every week for a while, then fit new ones, & continue the shiny stuff. I doubt your wife reads the name on your tyres all that often, & she would not notice. After my wife kerbed the third front tyre on her Mazda 2, I asked her to tell me what they were. She couldn't even read the brand.

Have you ever greased the rack? You are supposed to fit a grease nipple & grease it every 6,000 miles. Probably more often if not doing many miles.

Due to circumstances the 8 sat for most of 4 years. It was driven rarely, probably only a few thousand kilometres all up. At the end of that, the newish gas adjustable front shocks were totally shot. The car looked like it was praying to mecca, the way it's nose rose & fell driving down the road.

A few months ago we fitted new adjustable gas inserts, along with strut top bearings. The shocks are fantastic, they made the thing a car again. As for the strut top bearings, my son & I can not make up our minds if they are doing much at all. He has fitted one of those flash small steering wheels to the thing, which makes it quite a bit heavier than the 7.

Hasbeen

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Re: How does your TR7 (or TR7v8) drive?

Postby sonscar » 30 Sep 2015 10:35

I always attributed diagonal pitching on corners due to weak dampers.My car has aged Spax rear dampers set on the softest setting and I recently fitted some unnamed front strut inserts from Rimmer Bros as the oil had leaked out of one of the existing tubes.I would call the handling as good,the grip on very cheap tyres is more than I would care to use on the road(but then I am a poor and wimpy driver) and the ride is best described as "comfortable".On the move the steering is excellent with good response and it tracks beautifully,but when parking it requires some effort,the feeding the wheel through the hands techinique needed.Enjoy,Steve.

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