TR7 Strut top lubrication

[moodyblue]

I have read somewhere recently, although I can’t find the link now, that Molybdenum disulphide grease should never be used on the TR7 strut bearing surfaces. I used general purpose auto grease on my last project and the steering is fine. Anyway, I’ll trust my workshop manual which states that Molybdenum disulphide grease should be applied between the Thrust Washer (UKC9395) and Thrust Collar (UKC329).
Other than the underside of the washer and the top face of the collar, should all other mating surfaces be left dry?

[busheytrader]

If you're taking it all apart to lube it, I'd fit a roller / ball bearing conversion?

They're relatively cheap, easy to fit and it'll make the steering much lighter at parking speeds. I wouldn't go back to the original set up.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

[Hasbeen]

I had to fit bump stops & new gaiters to my struts to get a roadworthy certificate to be able to register the thing about 12 years ago.

While it was apart I greased everything that looked like it rubbed on something else, or looked like it might rust, with a thin smear of a special waterproof Molybdenum grease I have for my traveling irrigators. These spray water everywhere, including all over themselves, & need pretty good grease.

My steering is still great, & I can still see no rust anywhere up there.

Hasbeen

[moodyblue]

Thanks, I tried the bearings on my daily driver and it was horrible, the steering was far too light. I just wasn't sure about where else to grease the thing, but I suppose the manual should be correct.

[nick]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by moodyblue</i>

Thanks, I tried the bearings on my daily driver and it was horrible, the steering was far too light. I just wasn't sure about where else to grease the thing, but I suppose the manual should be correct.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have one car with the bearings and one without. I don't see any difference. If anything the one with requires higher force. The one thing that is common is tire pressure. It's probably obvious but the higher the pressure, to a point, the lighter the steering. I would not spend on the bearings again. Air is cheap.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[Hasbeen]

Nick, first the obvious, have you greased your rack? That is critical.

Second, what tyres do you have on the cars? I did a post recently about how much nicer my 7 was to drive with it's new Kumho tyres, only fitted because the top brands no longer supply 13" tyres, than it was with the Pirellis they replaced. I was very surprised that what I perceived as a cheapish Asian tyre was better than the premium brand.

Quieter, better ride, equal handling, & much lighter steering. It was almost like I had fitted a good quality power steering, much lighter, but not too light.

I then fitted them to my Ford/Mercury Capri. It had a quality tyre, with a herringbone water clearance tread pattern. They were good, & I liked them, but these Kumhos are somehow nicer to drive on, but of course it may be just they are younger & more flexible. It has hydraulic power steering, which has not been effected.

Hasbeen

[nick]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Nick, first the obvious, have you greased your rack? That is critical.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

How do you grease the rack properly? Don't recall that there is a nipple.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

[Hasbeen]

Nick in front of the rack is a large nut. Shims behind this adjust the clearance between the pinion & the rack.

In the middle of this large nut is a small bolt, or there could be a grease nipple. Leyland instructions were to remove the bolt, & install a grease nipple, give 6 strokes of a hand grease gun, remove the grease nipple, & replace the bolt. I have left the grease nipples in my racks.

This to be done every 6000 miles. If it has not been done for years it is best to give the thing 4 strokes with the steering straight, & 2 strokes each on 3/4 lock on each side. It is best to not to over grease normally as it fills the boots, leading to their failure.

I hope this is adequate explanation, I do have a photocopy of the drawing in the workshop manual, but I'm damned if I can get it into the forum.

Hasbeen

[UKPhilTR7]

I put in the new roller bearings recently and this was a good opportunity to clean everything up. So I took all the bits off, rust treated and painted them. When I put both sides back together I greased as much as I could, everything that looked like it needed it or looked like it out touch other bits. Which was most things lol.

It may of been all the grease with a combination of the roller bearings but now the steering at lower speeds is far easier. My wife still moans about it, but it is easier for me.

[Rayjones]

I have almost always noticed that the steering is lighter after fitting new tyres to the front of most cars I've had. I put it down to the tread blocks being unworn and deeper than the worn out tyres and therefore more flexible. The effect soon wears off though, probably because I get used to it!


1980 UK BRG 2L DHC