standard brakes

[storml]

Hi,

i have recently finished a resto on my standard 2.0ltr wedge but im not too happy with the soft brake pedal. I have new hoses / pads / shoes /servo, and compensator valve fitted and still she isnt too keen to stop.
(And yes,all the air has been bled out)
Has anybody out there any further ideas or suggestions that dont involve getting rid off her (as my wife would like !! )

[Beans]

I'd say get rid of the standard (front) brakes.
They are hardly adaquate at the best of times.

If you really want to stick to the standard brakes get some proper pads, braided hoses, and decent brake fluid (so no silicon).

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

[FI Spyder]

Most people used their cars for a bit then bleed the brakes again to get the last little bit of air out and do the final firming up. I have all standard brake parts and can lock all for wheels (although I run my 70 series tires at a gas sipping 32-34 lbs. for highway travel). My brakes seem pretty comparable to Integra and Toyota. I have braided brake lines to replace new rubber hoses which will go in Yellow TCT so I will get a comparison between the two (eventually). If you have bigger tires (more rubber on the road) you probably want to go for a brake upgrade. I did the hoses, overhauled the calipers, rear cylinders & master cylinder. Pads and shoes where like new so left them as well as left the servo and compensator valve. New hose from servo to intake.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Hasbeen]

I have stock brakes, with performance pads, on my 7. I also find
them adequate for normal road work, as I can lock the wheels, when
I try.

I have found it takes 3 bleeds to get them really firm.

A short couple of Km drive after the first bleed, & a rebleed,
usually gets them "OK", but another bleed, after a hundred or so
Km is required to get them "right".

I have much upgraded brakes in the 8, including rear discs, with
only some of the piping, & the distribution valve left from the
original system. I still find this system requires 3 bleeds to get
them "right".

I remember, back in the 60s, with one of the UK Ford Zephyrs,
[Mark 2, I think]you could only get the brakes bleed properly, if you
jacked the rear end up at least 2 feet in the air, while you did
the job.

We may have some silly thing like that, that no one has found.

Hasbeen

[busheytrader]

I agree with Beans 110%.

The standard brakes are barely adequate for a sporting car. The front brakes with their little pads provide poor retardation but lock up all too readily under a heavy foot and especially so in the wet.

I upgraded my brakes well before my V8 conversion after a set of pads smoked heavily after some spirited driving.

Adam




TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991