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Audio wiring advice

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emdee
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Audio wiring advice

Postby emdee » 28 Sep 2009 22:34

I'm about to install a JVC CD player - helpfully, the outers are all printed with wiring instructions. ie 2x black -Ground 1x yellow - permanent live, 1x red ignition switched live, 1x blue - power antenna, all of which is pretty clear. However there is an orange wire -dash light illumination. This is not shown in the installation diagram or mentioned in the instructions - what is its function? do I need it ?

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 28 Sep 2009 23:02

I think it is the stereo's backlight dimmer so it should be connected to the car's headlight switch. When the lights are on it will know to dim the stereo display.

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bottomtop
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Postby bottomtop » 28 Sep 2009 23:16

I'm not an auto electrician, but I would think that the wires that run the dash lights would be accessible for you to tap into at the rheostat switch? (which is in the general area of the stereo) My concern would be that the backlights in the stereo might be sensitive to changes in power from the rheo (migh break things?) so maybe bypass the rheo?

The other thing to consider is that maybe you don't need to connect this because there are 4 green lights that shine down in that stereo area anyway.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 29 Sep 2009 19:29

The back light to my stock radio (a Panasonic AM/FM stereo cassette deck standard on Spiders and 30th Anniversary Editions) plugs into rheostat. It turns on with main light switch and intensity varies with heater control lighting as adjusted with rheostat. I don't know if this is how it would work with a modern new fangled radio.[:)]


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marknotgeorge
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Postby marknotgeorge » 04 Oct 2009 13:57

If your car's manual, there should be a spare wire for the unused automatic transmission shift lever illumination.

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emdee
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Postby emdee » 04 Oct 2009 22:01

<i>"If your car's manual, there should be a spare wire for the unused automatic transmission shift lever illumination."</i>


It is an automatic (early '77 FHC 45K mls)but I suppose I can tap into the wire you suggest anyway. I think I'd prefer to stay away from the rheostat switch as everything there is working OK at the moment.

Cheers
Matt

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