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LT77 gearbox

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scotty
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Postby scotty » 12 Dec 2007 10:47

<i>"There is a website on the Rover SD1 that has a very good section on overhaul of the LT77 gearbox."</i>

Hi Mildred. Could you please post a link to the site you mentioned?
Thanks for the enthralling gearbox articles.
Scotty.
South Australia.

A pessimist is never disappointed!

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TRiffic
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Postby Workshop Help » 13 Dec 2007 02:23

In answer to your question, the excellent website for the LT77 gearbox overhaul is,

www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/index.html

Once there, click on 'gearbox' to view the details.

Mildred Hargis

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 13 Dec 2007 19:45

Excellent thread !! Lots of very useful pointers - many thanks all.
A Q from me though - what grade of ATF oil should I use?
Second Q - is it possible to remove the rear extension with the box still in the car in order to clean out any swarf and perhaps renew the oil pump gears ?

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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 13 Dec 2007 20:41

I used Dextron Mercon III before I switched to the GM Syncro.
By the time you drop the xmember & all, I think it would be simpler to just remove the trans.

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Postby Workshop Help » 13 Dec 2007 21:11

According to our copy of the factory work shop manual on the 5 speed, removal of the rear extension can be done without removal of the entire unit. This enables the servicing of the oil pump and replacement of the mainshaft ball bearing at the rear and the rear seal.

However, back to the subject of swarf, the swarf collects in the trough area below the oil pump housing because the inertia of the oil depositing it in the rear extension as well as thru out the sump. When you remove the rear extension and find a pile of steel swarf in that trough, you will realize that swarf has contaminated the entire gearbox. This then necessitates a general inspection/overhaul. Thus, the whole gearbox must be pulled.

A comparision can be made to the guy walking into the hospital emergency room gushing blood from an artery, thinking he only needs a bandaid. There is always more to repair than what is showing at first glance.

Mildred Hargis

lebochet9
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Postby lebochet9 » 26 Dec 2007 23:23

Thanks for all the info guys. So I've now got a thousand bits of gearbox on my bench. I used a drip tray to contain everything and followed the Haynes manual, took lots of photos and notes and really was quite surprosed at how easy the stripdown was. Bearings are a real sod to get off though. More or less ended up breaking them up to get them off. The input shaft has defeated me. Off to the engineering shop for that one...[:I]and the oil pump was in a sorry state. Othewise the gears and synchro hubs seem ok. Next question is, actually 2 questions. Any suggested sources for parts (Bearings, synchro rings, oil pumps...?? Couple of places on Ebay, but £200 seems a lot for a collection of bearings seals and gaskets. Second quetion is, why not put a filter (Like a fuel rock-stopper) over the oil pick-up tube to prevent swarf being picked up...Thoughts anyone...?

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TRiffic
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Postby Workshop Help » 26 Dec 2007 23:47

I prefer to obtain bearings and seals from a local bearing source. This way one can see it on the counter and discuss quality issues with the hopefully knowledgeable sales staff. I do strongly suggest that bearings made in China be avoided. Please seek out high quality bearings like Timken that were originally installed by the factory.

As for installing a filter on the oil pump pick up tube, the unflattened tube has about a 5/16" diameter. Using the filter from a TR7 fuel tank sending unit with it's 5/16" diameter opening seemed like a possibility. But, clearance problems arose with the proximity of the layshaft 5th gear. Also, if the pick up tube is 'unflattened' back to a round shape in the main case area with the filter attached, more clearance issues arise. At this point, I'm stumped and running low on patience.

A filter screen on the pick up tube is a good direction to go. The screen material must not be too fine as the pump is a low pressure suction. A coarse screen would not keep the swarf out of the pump. Out there somewhere is a small slip-on filter with a 5/16" diameter hole to fit the pick up tube.

Mildred Hargis

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 27 Dec 2007 20:05

But as soon as that filter gets blocked - oil starvation ! What's really needed is a bigger sump for the swarf to fall into! And a magnet to hold it there.
Still looking for clues to viscosity of ATF oil to use please - if anyone can say from experience ? At the moment I filled up with EP90 as my manual suggests - it's quite thick!

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TRiffic
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Postby Workshop Help » 27 Dec 2007 20:23

As you say, EP90 is thick, and for your climate and time of year, too thick. The factory changed their minds and recommended the lighter weight ATF for the LT77's. ATF is about in the 20wt region and is a high detergent composition. The ATF for late Ford and GM products will suit your needs. I use the high mileage formula from the local Walmart as it is about $2.00/qt. Since the gearbox oil change will be at the same time as the engine oil change, I cannot justify the more expensive high tech gearbox fluids for my use.

But, the choice is yours.

You've struck a nerve! What if a large magnet, such as is found in the sumps of automatic transmissions was placed in the sump of the gearbox next to the pickup tube? You've seen them before, large, flat, doughnut shaped magnets. Naturally, it would never be cleaned until an overhaul was performed. Would it be strong enough draw the steel swarf away from being sucked into the oil pump? Also, being a magnet, it would stay put in the iron sump and away from the gears.

This idea has a glint of promise. Is anyone willing to try an experiment with a magnet in your sump? I would, but my gearbox overhaul is done and back in the car.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby Odd » 28 Dec 2007 08:04

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> At the moment I filled up with EP90 as my manual suggests - it's quite thick! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You will probably get as many different opinions as answers regarding which fluid to fill your LT77/R380
transmission with - but you will get a unanimous opinion regarding EP90: In this case the manual is
<b>wrong</b>! It is definitely the <b>wrong fluid</b>! Even Leyland realised this and stopped using it since it killed
the oil pump gears in no time + gave a hard gear shift (nearly impossible to engage second for
instance). So dump that jelly as soon as ever possible!

When it comes to what to use my personal experience is solely with the GM Liquid Gold stuff
- and I like all aspects of it (bar the price! Here in Sweden it's SEK 152 per US quart. That's roughly
UKP 56.6 per UK gallon or UKP 7.07 per UK pint). But my baby gets the best a man can get!

I know other people use ordinary ATF type F or Castrol SMX-S or Texaco MTF94 (the latter two were
recommended by LandRover for use in the R380). The choice is yours
- but get rid of that jelly you poured into the box quickly!

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Postby Underdog » 29 Dec 2007 14:42

A little FWIW I picked up from working on these. The 5th gear syncro assm is the same as the other two except it doesn't get the amount of wear since there is no downshifting. Rimmer had a clearance sale on some LT77 stuff several years ago. I grabed two of the 5th syncro hub assemblys a mainshaft and a few gears. As I said the sycro assms are all the same except the 5th one comes missing a brass blocking ring on the one side. An otherwise trashed box may have the 5th sycro still in good shape. May pay to have a look before scrapping a box.

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If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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