Which Clutch fork..

[lebochet9]

Another reason ofr pulling the gearbox over the winter (apart form stiff selection and a horrible fluid leak, was to look at the clutch, which never really disengages as cleanly as I expect. The feeling is like having the clutch dragging and I'm wondering if I have mixed up the componenets somehow from the TR7 and V8 during the V8 rebuild. As far as I can see the operating points of the fork look the same even though one is clearly much beefier than the other, and has been welded up around the pivot point.


Question is, which is which??

Thanks!!

1980 DHC TR7-V8 (was an 8V, then a Sprint)
Back on the road after 3 years restoring...

[samco]

The first thing to establish is that the TR7 fork and the V8 fork are the same. At the time of manufacture they both had the same part number. (also the same as the Rover SD1)The second thing is where the fork sits over the pivot pin is a weak spot and they frequently wear straight through. The most important point is that the pivot pin is a different length on the between the TR7 and the TR8, TR7 V8. Many people overlook this leaving in the TR7 pivot pin when converting to V8 and have clutch issues. Apparenly it is not uncommon to heat up and bend the fork to overcome this difference in the length of the pin. I know all of this because I am restoring a TR7 V8 and it had the wrong pin in it and the fork had worn straight through. I had thought about the weld fix as you had done but I got a new one from Robsport for about £35. My old clutch fork looked like the lower one in your pictures and my new one looked like the upper one. I think it is from a later Range Rover with 5 speed box, hence the two kinks in the sides. If you have a standard TR7 gearbox measure the length of the pivot pin and if its the same as the one for your V8 then that may have been your clutch problem to begin with. Robsport also stock the V8 pivot pins

Good luck

If it doesn't fit you obviously need a bigger hammer.

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1980 Californian import converted to right hand drive V8. Under construction.

[jrv8]

Hi,
Both of the clutch forks shown are suitable for the TR7/8 and the SD1.
The top one is for the self centring plastic bearing carrier on the later clutch kits, the bottom one is for the earlier cast iron bearing carrier.
Either will be fine, though on the early one you will need to remove some of the post on the slipper pad to be able to fit the plastic bearing.
As has been stated earlier the pivot post lengths are critical for correct operation of the clutch.

Hope this helps
Jim

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

The old one is not available any more(one on left). The notches allow access to the trans front cover bolts.



Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

[lebochet9]

Thanks guys. Helps a lot. The pivot pin on the V8 box was the shorter one. (I had managed to get that right [;)]) I think I'll be putting the beefier fork back in as it has been welded. Still does not answer why the clutch was not really disengaging cleanly though. Maybe I need a new clutch kit?? Incidentally, the MOT guy said he thought it was normal for the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to be above the clutch pipe, and that may help bleeding.

1980 DHC TR7-V8 (was an 8V, then a Sprint)
Back on the road after 3 years restoring...

[FI Spyder]

Air goes up so bleed nipple is always at the top to expel any air in system.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Shauniedawn]

Hiya

Out of (future) interest - what are the actual lengths of the pivot pins for the 7 versus the 8?

Regards

Shaun

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12691409@N08/

[Hasbeen]

I have not posted on this before, as I think the problen I had, with
a 7 pressure plate is very unusual.

If all the usual things fail to fix the problem, or if you have it
out for any reason, have a good look at the pressure plate.

My current 7 had a very similar problem.

You could not get it into any gears, with the engine running, &
could not get it out of reverse, first or second, with it running.
This was after still the case after rebuilding the slave, & master
cylinders.

When I took it out, I, & a few really knowledgeable people I showed
it to, could see nothing wrong with it.

When I took it to an exchange components bloke he showed me that
the groove in the cast iron bit, in which the diaphragm works was
worn. This allowed some lost movement between the diaphragn, & the
cast iron, before the face moved.

It appeared to be working OK, but the face was not drawn back
far to free the clutch plate, in the car. He said he only got a few
like that each year.

It was very lucky for me, for, although it gave me a hard time
finding it, the reason the car had been retired, 4 years before by
the PO, was he could not get the clutch to work. It probably saved
me quite a bit of money, on the price.

Hasbeen