Zeibart treatment.

[smoking joe]

One of the reason I purchased my 1980 DHC was the fact that it had been Zeibart treated, clean and solid underneath, never welded.

I only have 2 small areas of rust at the bottom of the doors, pretty good I thought, anyway 2 years down the line, sorted most issues so running quite well, it
doesn't go out in the rain, but have been caught out a few times. But wondering whether the Zeibart should be backed up, some cavity wax etc. Not wanting to
possibly have a long term reaction/dilution/ softening of the Zeibarting, does anyone know if there is a more compatible cavity wax to inject. Not too struck on modern Waxoyl, perhaps Dinitrol ?

Zeibart not available in UK to my knowledge anymore, I did email them in the US but never got a reply.

Many thanks.

SJ

[busheytrader]

Hi,

I'm restoring a Classic Mini Cooper and have used several Bilthamber products which have worked well. Their Dynax cavity wax is supposed to be top stuff as is their response to technical queries.

Have a look at their website to see if it might work for you.

Adam

[kstrutt1]

Mine was also treated from new but it had corroded in a few places, mostly the various seams where the underseal had cracked allowing water in, there were also a few localised areas where the wax had not reached such as one top corner of the front panel.

I woul advise you check carefully for any loose or cracked underseal, if you find any scrape it off and repair, most waxes dry out with time so it does need topping up every 3 or 4 years.

[dursleyman]

I briefly had a very low mileage 1980 TR7 DHC that had been Zeibarted from new but it had still needed two new sills, front wings and lower door repairs done within its first 5-6 years. Amazing. Unfortunately it had been left outside in the rain for a while and the interior was ruined so it needed too much work for me at the time.

[supercass]

Zeibart in the U.K iirc ceased to operate. I believe they were unable to meet the cost of claims. They did try to continue with some of the more robust service providers. The whole claims process was seemingly organized to protect the organizations interest, not the customers. I guess the reason Zeibart USA have not responded is because they would have to tell you this! I know U.K customers were left with rusty cars and out of pocket. Dinitrol iirc also operated at that time and is still in operation although the demand for rustproofing now has significantly reduced. I vaguely recall hearing of a Zeibart franchise operating recently in Scotland but am not sure this is correct.
I think frequent topping up of rustproofing is beneficial, one reason being the obvious inadequacy of applications like Zeibart and there are a number of products that I have found to be excellent, I have used Supertrol, MTec, Wurth cavity wax, Comma cavity wax, Plastic Padding cavity wax and underbody wax Dinitrol cavity wax and underbody wax and similar , all of which seem good. I buy the cheapest at the time. They are sometimes available in bulk for bargain prices. About a year ago I was able to buy 36 aerosols of Wurth cavity wax for just under £100. They had a two year shelf life left when I bought them but in essence if stored properly they will be usable long after that. My advice is shop around. Softening the existing Zeibart would probably be of benefit. supercass

[Ianftr8]

I swear by Morris oils Anker Wax which is far more runny than waxoil it is easy to spray using a paraffin sprayer and an air line.

Don't forget that this something that is an on-going job - I tend to have mine on the go all the time so if the car is on my ramp then it tends to get a top up in the areas where it gets damage.

Cheers
Ian

[FI Spyder]

My car had some sort of undercoating in the front and rear wheel wells and underneath on the sills. There was none in the doors/inner sill area, bottom of car other than what ever covering they used on the bottom of the car in the factory. There is no rust on the car. With the struts out (on the front) and axle out (on the back) I scrubbed the surface with stiff brush and water based solvant and flushed surface with water spray from a bottle. This was done in the garage so minimum of water/spray was used with plastic sheeting and trays used to collect it. I then reshot it with undercoating from spray can in those areas mentioned. The rest of the areas I sprayed with some wax oil type stuff I got from local auto parts store that can in aerosol can and liquid which was thinned 50/50 with turpentine (use with low odour type) and engine cleaner wand with compressed air. When I had the front bumper off I sprayed it in the front holes and you could see the spray come out the holes behind the front wheels. This gives protection between the inner and outer wing panels. When the gas tank was out for resealing I sprayed the area above the gas tank. The instructions on the can said it will migrate and fill in cracks on it's own. In behind the front area I hand brushed some paint extender on (I thought I'd try that from MG forum, not that I go there). This was all done as part of other projects I was doing as I was doing them (why it takes me so long to do anything, while it's out do everything).

[smoking joe]

Ok thanks, i think I will run with dinitrol.

SJ

[sonscar]

I have used Dinitrol after several years of Waxoyl,and after 18 months of outside living it seems to work well.One tip when using it is that it runs everywhere(which is good for filling up those unseen gaps) and it does this for some time after application.Perhaps I just injected too much into the wings and sills?.Steve..