Towing a TR7?

[Don]

Hello,

I'm new to this website and relatively new to triumphs. I've just purchased an TR8 and need to tow it home, about 150 miles. Do I need to drop the drive shaft to tow it home safely.

Don

[tom bauer]

yes. you also need to check that the trans is full of atf and not 90wt or even empty.

[Don]

Thanks for the info.

[RJS]

Congrats on the purchase (I think).

There is a wealth of info on this site.

Tom is correct that you need to drop the shaft.

Tell us more about the car.

Rob

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Yes drop the drive shaft. Be aware that while the holes in the drive shaft flange at the differential are evenly spaced, the holes in the flange at the other end are not. So, mark the location of the front flange on both the drive shaft and the trans flange so you can align it when you replace it.

My trans was empty when I got my car. Didn't know any better then so I used regular gear oil. Also, the shifter housing bushings were gone. Shifting was a pain.

Cleaned the trans out and installed 2 Quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid ($7.99 US/QT). Very smooth now!

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

[Beans]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RJS</i>

...you need to drop the shaft...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
AAAAAAHhhhhhhh .... not that discussion all over again I hope [:p]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

[MCNX BFF]

Hi there, Don!
Congratulations on the acquisition of your V8 and welcome to the forum. The folks here are fantastic and their knowledge of Wedges is phenomenal. Be sure to send us a pix when you get a chance!

Towing?! Well, my 7 always goes on a flat bed tower. But, that has only been once or twice..err, umm, three times?! No, four. Maybe five..Heck, who's counting?[;)] Best of luck to you!--Monica

----MH-----

[Don]

The TR8 is an 1980 metalic green with 85k miles. The body is in great shape, but it has been worked on. The front fenders had some metal welded in near the bottoms, the bottom of the doors had rust bubbles and were repaired. The rest of the vehicle appears to be original sheet metal. The man who did the repairs is a body man and also owned the car, so I believe he didn't take short cuts in the repairs. The engine bay is complete, including the AC parts. The only change is that the SU carbs have been replaced with a new 4-barrel carb.

Now, the new carb is not tuned correctly so that the car won't idle. The power steering hose leaks and there is a "tick" in the engine. The owner said the car has been stored for 2 years, and did not tick when parked. It sounds like a collasped lifter to me, but who knows? I'll have to get the car home and tinker until I find out.

I also have a TR7 Spider, which is also in the garage with a bad clutch.

[pupinabox]

having a little deja vu. Have a metallic green 1980 8 myself sitting alongside my 7 in the garage. Tinkering with both. Welcome to the forums[:D]

[busheytrader]

Hi Don,

It happened to me once. I thought I had a top end death rattle it was so loud.

It's not uncommon for one of the lifters to stick if the engine's not been run for a while. A short run with a well warmed up engine should clear it if all's well. Good luck.

Adam





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[Underdog]

If it's a Holley and it sat for 2 years, plan on changing the bowl and metering block gaskets. They shrink badly if left dry. Try to get the blue non stick ones if you can. The regular ones are a PITA to remove if you need back in. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to blow some carb cleaner through it while it's open in case the fuel has varnished...very likely.

My original engine was probably about the same miles. It would get an intermitant lifter tapping. Seems to be a common problem on these engines when the miles get up. Unfortunately there is no adjustment with the factory setup. I have heard of just changing lifters but I'm not too keen on that. Anyway, mine ran fine just
the occasional tap tap tap. Seemed to do some better with 20/50 in it.

Oh and Welcome here and to Wedge ownership.


72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[FI Spyder]

For 150 miles @ highway speeds, drop the drive shaft. I towed my TCT 10 miles @ 30 mph without but that short distance at that speed won't hurt.

I also have a Spider and may paint TCT a dark metalic green. They could be twins with yours (unless yours is Triton green.)


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[jbsjim]

I towed mine with the back wheels on a dolly and the steering wheel tied in place dead center. Pulled her home behind my Saturn. Worked great but may not be legal everywhere. I used back roads and kept it under 50.
Welcome!
Jim