Engine Oil (Modern) for Triumph TR7

[Rich K]

I agree with not using synthetic low viscosity oils in our older engines especially if they have done a relatively high mileage. I now always use a 20w50 and oil consumption is minimal. In the past I had tried various semi synthetic and mineral oils with lower viscosity ratings and found that the oil level would drop from normal to minimum on the dip stick even after only a few hundred miles. The thinner stuff simply finds it's way out past seals and the lower tolerances of our engines.
Rich.

[bonnietiler]

The Fuchs Oil is of course full synthetic and just about the only 20w50 that is also it doesn't have all kinds of seal destroying additives as its a Racing oil. Opie oils putit on special offer occasionally and its a recommended product, you can of course use 20w50 Full synthetic Motorcycle oil as this also omits the additives so loved by modern cars. Most bikes run a wet clutch so the additives are a bad thing for correct use of the plates. But again work well in older car engines.

[dursleyman]

I am running some Millers Classic Sport 20/50 which is a semi synthetic oil. They advertise it as "Ultimate protection in period viscosities". Seen it recommended on a few of the forums and it seems to be doing a good job so far.

[Hasbeen]

Most of todays oils are pretty damn good.

Back in the day my 1962 Morgan +4 came with a TR3A engine. Even with genuine Vandervell bearings we could not keep big end bearings in a beautifully built engine. Until we started using STP in BPs best racing oil, about 50 miles was tops. At Bathurst, pulling 6250 RPM for the best part of a mile down Conrod straight, we would be down to copper in the copper led indium bearings, in just 8 laps.

Today, using mostly Penrite "old engine" oil, which still has a lot of Zinc in it, but a wide range of other oils, both mineral & synthetic, the classic racing boys are getting a full season from the bottom end of these TR3/4 engines trouble free. The only difference is the improved oils today. Their bearings are no better.

Yes I am pedantic, & use the high detergent version of this oil, with STP in it still, changing it every 3000 kilometres. I do laugh at my self though, knowing I don't really need to do this, but then, I always prepared race cars by the theory that if it can't hurt, do it, even if it's not actually needed. It gave me great reliability back then, & still does today I believe.

Hasbeen

[FI Spyder]

I use what ever brand name 20W/50 is on sale (as mentioned). This usually means Castrol GTX although occasionally have used Quaker State. This is because Castrol is the one that is usually on sale for like 40% off twice a year from Wal-mart or Canadian Tire (so I stock up when it is). You often don't see it on the shelf (not enough sales to justify shelf space) but when it's on a flyer I'll take it in and ask for it. They sometimes have to go into the back room to get it and I pick up a couple jugs in case I miss the sale next time around. At 106,000 miles on original engine, it doesn't burn any oil and only a few drips on cardboard I have down to monitor it over a period of 6 months.

[john 215]

Hi,

V8 gets Valvoline VR1 20/50, lots of lovely zinc for those tappets and the 2 litre gets Halfords Classic 20/50 with massive discount thanks to trade card ! !

Cheers John