Leaking water pump

fastman · Postby **fastman** » 07 Nov 2009 12:44

I just re-read the price of your pump!!!! I ordered mine from Victoria British (in USA), it was a Christmas sale for <$100usd. Shipping to UK may still be worth the effort. The pump is still working 3yrs now.

Howard722 · Postby **Howard722** » 07 Nov 2009 17:49

My slide hammer has a 10mm shaft-might be 12mm-too cold to rummage into the garage tonight-but I welded the appropriate nut to the LH thread bolt head and clonk-clonk out she came nice and straight. [8D]When done cut the nut off and re-use bolt-better still use a bolt from a spare lump and hope you never need to use the adapter again.[;)]

Enjoy& regards

mb4tim · Postby **mb4tim** » 09 Nov 2009 19:10

I agree, if you are prepared, you never need to employ those preparations.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 26 Nov 2009 18:53

I've decided to take out the water pump and check it out. I've got thre donor engines at the minute so I'll work through those and check them all out at the same time, and pick the best to put back in. I've bought a rebuild kit and will give the best pump the treatment and hope this will cure the leak. I only want it to hold for a year or so as I'll be swapping lumps for a Sprint engine next winter so fingers crosse she'll hold out.

I've had a few pointers on the pump removal process, but does anybody have any tips or advice on an overhaul and replacement? Are there any special tricks I need to be aware of, because I picked up a great tip on replacing the housing cover the other day by chance. Has anybody else ever attempted this, and if so can you let me know anything I need to be aware of?

Thanks for all of your time and help, and sorry Mildred but I can't quite afford a new pump for now so will save for one for the Sprint engine, but thanks for the tip. Hopefully it'll last a year!

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 26 Nov 2009 19:33

Euhhh ... previous page, 3rd reply [:p]

Two more short post in my weblog (january 2008)

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 27 Nov 2009 18:52

Thanks, Beans.

I have now removed the water pump housing and exposed what appears to be a very good condition water pump and interior.

As far as I could, I've had a good look inside and it all looks quite positive, with no major corrosion problems and the water I removed after being sat in the block for 3 weeks was almost crystal clear. But I still can't get the pump out [:(!] !

Do I have to remove the impellor from the shaft first or can I remove the whole lot in one go?

I was hoping to weld a sacrificial LH thread bolt onto a slide hammer and just knock out the pump - would that work or do I need to remove a locking pin or dowel or something. Also, how hard would I need to "whack" it - should it come out easily or are we talking knocking the merry-hell out of it? I have 3 engines, all in the same state of strip and I can't get the pump out of either one - is that because the impellors are still on or am I being too sissy and need to get some man-up tablets down my neck?

I won't be at the car now for 3 weeks, but if anybody can give me an idea I could grab an hour and see if the thing will budge.

Any help from anybody would be really appreciated, as I am now becoming more and more desparate each time I try, and this is the only thing between me and carbon monoxide.

Thanks again,

Mac.



The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

gkcoleman · Postby **gkcoleman** » 03 Dec 2009 04:50

I had the same problem, leaking water pump, you need to take of the inlet manifold (leave the carbys on). I had no problem getting the cover off and the pump out. The only problem I had was getting the 12 vane impellor off, which I broke, luckily a friend had a good second hand impellor. I got replacement bearing/seal from RimmerBros. While I was at it I replaced the pipe from the heater to the water pump with a stainless steel one (Someone in Sydney Oz makes them, sourced through Vanguard Triumph, Lilydale Vic,OZ. The hardest part is fitting the hoses & piper once the inlet manifold is back on and lining up the fitting to the bottom of the inlet manifold. While you are at it replace all the hoses and clamps. You only want to do the job once.
Regards
Gary

Wayne S · Postby **Wayne S** » 03 Dec 2009 09:03

Hi Mac,

Hope you're well. I got mine out by emulating the rimmers removal too which is essentially that left hand bolt with a washer welded onto it. I used the washer to then pass a long rod through to lever out the pump. I then got a helpful assistant to rotate the front pulley backwards to help persuade it upwards and bobs your uncle it should pop out.

I have a water pump rbuild kit on eBay at the moment if you want to save some pennies, can drop it round next time your up.

Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)

Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 03 Dec 2009 13:12

You don't need an hour to get it out, once a SLIDE HAMMER is attached under the impeller nut, two moderate whacks and it will be out.

As for the manliness pills, I don't use them myself.

Unless the pump shaft is absolutely smooth and free of ANY pitting, corrosion, or dents, please consider buying a new pump rather than a repair kit. Also, use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water to refill the system. It is common these days to see jugs of 50/50 premix antifreeze on the shelfs. The problem is one does not know what kind of water was used at the factory to make this concotion. It is far safer to buy a gallon of PURE CONCENTRATED antifreeze and mix it with your gallon of distilled water so you know what is going into your engine.

Please use the SEARCH function to read the various articles on water pumps.

Mildred Hargis

mb4tim · Postby **mb4tim** » 03 Dec 2009 14:26

ditto, put that impeller bolt back in, hook the slide hammer hooks under it, 2 whacks, and it's out.

It was soooo easy, we put it back in so my neighbor could try it, too.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 04 Dec 2009 21:02

Ladies and gents, I thank you all very much. I won't be able to get to the car for 2 weeks now (got to revise for exams - at my age [:0]) but will definitely be giving two hearty whacks to my water pump before Christmas - and it WILL come out [:D].

Wayne: thank you for the offer but I've already purchased the rebuild kit from Rimmers [V]. Shame, could have saved me a few quid. I do like your tip about rotating the crank pulley, so you've probably condemned my son to an early morning soon [:D].

Mildred, thank you very much for your tips, and if I can't find one perfect shaft from the 3 pumps I will get out of my 3 engines (get me, all engined up!), it will be a new pump. As I said before, I'll be changing the whole engine for a 16v in the next year, so only need it to hold out for that long.

I'll let you know how it goes, but thanks again.

Mac.

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 17 Dec 2009 13:46

Okay, I have good news. The water pump is out [:D]. I've not seen it yet, but a friend of mine removed it in my absence using the advice you gave me via this forum. He welded one of the left hand bolts to a slide hammer and three mighty thwacks later, the pump was liberated. I hope to get to the car over the next few days and I'll have a good look at the pump, and also remove my other sacrificial pumps and see what one is best, then refurb and refit.

I'll try to remember to take a few pictures of the pumps and pump area so I can post them here and ask you guys/girls what you might think to overall condition. From what I saw, the water channels inside the block looked in quite good condition and corrosion free, but now I've got a bit more time I can have a closer look.

I'll let you know how I go, but in the meantime, thanks for all your help. Who knows, I might even get a spare out of all this!!

Cheers,

Mac.

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

windy one · Postby **windy one** » 17 Dec 2009 15:31

I have a question.....you say you had filled the system with coolant Then it began to leak...yes? Did you have your engine running before adding coolant & having the leak, i.e; with water only at first?

I have had my replacement engine running now in my 7 for about 2 months, maybe a bit longer. That whole time my system was only full of distilled water, absolutely No coolant mixed in. Over those months I drove it several times with not one leak at all of coolant (ok, distilled water in the system) from anywhere on the engine I installed.
Couple days ago, now that the frigid weather is back around here, I drained (too much) distilled water and added (too much) coolant to the system. Now, it drips out the hole in the side of the engine block beneith the water pump. But, it only drips out the hole untill the engine block warms up...then it stops for the day.

My next step is to drain and acurately obtain proper coolant/distilled-water mixture, then see if this cold start coolant-drip ceases. Has anyone else experienced this on thier 7 too?
I am going to take a stab at several procedures before going thru the whole 'pull the intake & carbs and pulling/replacing pump'.

Johnny

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 17 Dec 2009 16:12

Mine was just plain tap water. The seal probably perished when I first turned the engine over to pump the oil around. I had no water in at the time but as I was only going to turn the engine over wasn't going to start it, I didn't think that was an issue. With hindsight, I reckon the seal was probably stuck after years of non-use with no water in and tore when I turned the engine over. That'll learn me!

My plan is to get the thing running first with just normal water and then I'll let that run through with the engine idling. After a short while I'll fill it with some kind of flushing agent and run the engine again and let the stuff do its magic, after which I'll flush the system and fill with distilled water and suitable anti-freeze.


The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

windy one · Postby **windy one** » 18 Dec 2009 15:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by windy one

My next step is to drain and acurately obtain proper coolant/distilled-water mixture, then see if this cold start coolant-drip ceases. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Didnt work. And Im not allowing my car to spew coolant on the ground when temps get below 40*. Sooooooo off come the intake out comes the pump. I thank those whove shared their exp with pump replacement, saves me from havin to ask LOL [:p]

Johnny

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