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More work than replacing the fuel tank........

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busheytrader
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More work than replacing the fuel tank........

Postby busheytrader » 24 Oct 2009 17:51

After more years than I care to remember, I've finally fixed my heater.

Long ago on a cold winter's day, I was driving home from work (everyday car then) when steam instantly filled the interior. The rubber seals linking the heater pipes to heater matrix had let go, only I didn't know that at the time. Luckily I was only 2 miles from home and slowly limped back with the V8 just above idle, windows wound down in my own private sauna. I later by-passed the heater using a couple of copper elbow joints in the engine bay.

The arrival of my son, a house move and an awol heater saw my 7V8 become a summer and fine weather car. Several layers of clothing had to be worn at times, brrrr! Le Mans and back no problem. In fact I never raised the hood for years as I could garage it under a dust sheet at home.

I bought Robsport's replacement seals a few years ago but never got around to replacing them as I suspected a duff matrix. I decided to source or rebuild a good heater box and swap the original to save on TR7 down time. Last winter I bought a "restored" box through Ebay which was rubbish but later obtained an ace second hand box from James Paddock. I made a better box from both of them, replaced the rubber seals and fitted Robsport's stainless steel pipes as all were badly rusted. It passed a pressure test as well. Thanks also to Paul W who donated lots of useful sponge for the internal flaps.

Last week I finally swapped over the heater boxes. It took about 2 1/2 days and was about as much fun as replacing the fuel tank. The heater box had been firmly stuck front and back with thick white caulking compound. (Neither of the replacement boxes had any of this gunk so I guess an over enthusiastic repair before my ownership) I managed to remove the dashboard with the steering wheel in place. The Haynes manual said otherwise but that's probably for the FHC and its restricted workspace. I didn't have any parts leftover but am now short of several dasboard screws as many weren't fitted. Additionally I spent ages chasing a bad fog lamp connection behind the dash when both bulb holders needed cleaning out instead............

I now have heat on my feet................

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Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 24 Oct 2009 18:32

Hi Adam,

Its a real pleasing feeling when you get the heater and dashboard out and back in again - One thing I missed and only put right only recently was to get the flow and return the right way round.

Were the screw fixings ok on the far extremes of the dash ok? the lower ones always seem to get broken.

Hope you enjoy driving in the refreshing air of our autumn - mine did 120 mile yesterday a great drive.

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 24 Oct 2009 19:20

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">I'm just about to put my FHC dashboard back in after about 2 years - is this a hard job, a job for two or a piece of cake? I'm hoping to manage my expectations here and not approach the job with a false sense of ease only then to find it a nightmare!

Cheers,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

ImageImageImageImageImage
ImageImageImageImageImage

(two and a half years and counting - but who's counting!!)

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 24 Oct 2009 19:44

Can be done alone, just take your time and work methodically.
And make sure you have room to manoeuvre, so seats, steering wheel and column switches should be out of the car
Hopefully you did take pictures when you dismantled it.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 24 Oct 2009 23:48

Ian, the dashboard extremeties have survived quite well so no problems there. It's amazing all that screwed together plastic fits together and doesn't rattle and squeak more than it does.

Mac, as per Beans it pays to be methodical and take things gently. If it's positioned correctly it'll slot straight in, if not it won't so don't force it. Hopefully you've got lots of previous photos and the official parts book to work from. (The parts book isn't always 100% correct though) I found it easier to ditch the Haynes manual with its refer to section 10 here and 5 previous chapters there and followed my instinct. With the DHC's windowns and hood down I still found things tight for space. You may well have to remove the FHC's steering wheel and seats to squeeze the main dash in. IMHO, other than placing the main dash in position, an extra person would have just got in the way. I didn't rush things and it took 2 1/2 days to remove the dash, swap heater boxes and refit. I could probably do it in a day now. Good luck!

Adam

Image

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Spectatohead
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Postby Spectatohead » 25 Oct 2009 04:49

Well, thanks Adam. I don't fear doing the fuel tank as much now. I had to do the heater box on my old TR7 and it was time consuming but not too difficult. The fuel tank is a piece of cake by comparison huh?

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd
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Beans
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Postby Beans » 25 Oct 2009 10:17

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

... I still found things tight for space. You may well have to remove the FHC's steering wheel and seats to squeeze the main dash in ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Also remove the column switches as they are in the way (just) and easily damaged.
If you only have to swap the heater it definitely can be done in one day. But take your time and inspect and clean all connectors which are usually inaccessible.

Took me two days to complete [url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/2008/03/changing-heater-day-1.html"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">the job</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url], but I had to rebuilt the heater.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 25 Oct 2009 10:54

Hey Jim, so long as plenty of release agent is applied to the nuts / bolts well before you start, the tank job is relatively simple by comparison.

I'm 6'2" and not much of a contortionist so not keen on working in strange positions. Removing all that strange caulking type sealant from the bulkhead wasn't easy for me.

I've dropped the rear suspension a few times now. Reassembling everything with copper grease makes it so easy to take apart again so helps with tank replacement.

Good luck with the tank job.

Adam

Beans
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Postby Beans » 25 Oct 2009 11:05

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ianftr8</i>

...Were the screw fixings ok on the far extremes of the dash ok? the lower ones always seem to get broken...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Earlier dash assemblies don't have this problem as their mounting points are underneath the glove box ...

Image

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Ianftr8
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Postby Ianftr8 » 25 Oct 2009 16:55

Hi,

Thats much better - why on earth did they cahnge away from that it looks loads more secure.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

john 215
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Postby john 215 » 25 Oct 2009 17:05

Hi Adam,
Well done mate, good idea about the stainless pipes and getting the seals, dont think the seals are available any more.
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 25 Oct 2009 22:38

Cheers John,

I heard that new heater pipe seals are impossible to get hold of at the moment as well. That explains why I saw a pair on Ebay for £20 last year. There's no point in refurbishing the heater box or fitting new s/s pipes without them as they become hard and brittle with age. I was lucky I bought mine a few years ago.

Some of the other rubber seals weren't available new but Robsport found some good s/h bits for me amongst their stuff. I'm still grumbling about all that hardened white sealant I spent hours scraping off the bulkhead and transmission tunnel. I wasn't expecting the heater box to have such a large drain hole through the floor pan.....it's shown on the picture of my upside down heater box.

Adam

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Postby Spectatohead » 26 Oct 2009 03:37

Adam, Now you are frightening me again. I also have a leaky heater on this car. It has been bypassed since I got the car back on the road. It was to be another of my winter projects. If I can't get the seals I may as well wait until I can. That way the fun is spread out a bit more.[:D] Hey, we wouldn't own these cars if they weren't fun now, would we? I am also 6'2" and not near as flexible as I was 25 years and 80 pounds ago. It may take a bit longer than last time.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd
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Postby jeffremj » 28 Oct 2009 21:59

Whilst it is best to remove the steering wheel and stalks, I have not found it necessary and have had the heaters out of both my cars (one a DHC and one an FHC) at least twice without damage to the dashboard and accomplished it single-handed [8D]. In both cars the new heater matrix had pipes rather than holes and so no seals were necessary - just cut the bulkhead pipes to suit and use a hose and jubilee clips as required.

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 29 Oct 2009 21:31

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">....In both cars the new heater matrix had pipes rather than holes and so no seals were necessary.....<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi, were both these heaters from cars with aircon spec? I vaguely remember seeing a post / photo from a non UK car that had copper pipes solidly fixed to the matrix.

The 3 UK spec heaters I dismantled all had the fated rubber seals which had hardened, or in my case hardened and leaked. Beans's photo from his blog shows the seals in situ. Maybe the US cars don't have to rely on these daft rubber bits. Hopefully there's an alternative that can be adapted for the rest of us.

Image

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006064


Adam

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