Hammerite

[REPLIC8]

The whole of the underside of my car was treated with hammerite in 1993 when it was converted to V8. It's a bit flakey in places now & i'm going to re - paint it when I strip the suspension out, but it has protected the car well for 16 years. Mind you it was rust free when applied, and has always been garaged. Once re - painted I'm also going to waxoil all the box sections so hopefully it will last another good few years.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

[tr7inc]

Hi Andy, i paintd Hammerite on each car ive owned and some point and served me well, and to be fair the places ive used it on are the engine bay and boot, and a bit here and there in and around the suspension legs,Yellow isnt always an easy colour to get either, so Hammerite worked well and the colour is almost identical i think to my Inca Yellow, i use it not always to cover any rust signs, but it gave a nice finish,and i think anyway!


Steve
1979 BL Press Car Pre Production Prototype Inca Yellow DHC

[FI Spyder]

You guys (and gals) in the UK tend to use Hammerite as it is a UK product and widely available. It's cheaper than POR-15 (which is a US product but available in the UK) but apparently doesn't work as well. You get what you pay for I guess. POR-15 is the real deal which you'll realize when you work with it. It is not just another paint. I would paint with a brush, not spray even though they say you can do that. It can be spray painted over while tacky or you can primer it (with POR-15 primer) then spray painted over if you want a colour other than black. Although it's expensive it goes furter than you expect, you have to use two or three coats for best protection (if exposed to weather like suspension parts). I've only ever used two coats.

They say it works best on rusty parts (loose rust wire brushed off) as it chemically bonds with the rust increasing adhesion but I like to remove all rust with Metalready (POR-15 product) or molasses if practical. For it's superior protection it's worth the extra cost.






TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[REPLIC8]

F1 Spyder,
I think TR7inc & myself are similar in that we only use it for extra protection of mostly unseen parts, and not as some "magic" rust cure. The only real way to eliminate rust is to cut it out & repair with new metal. I started using hammerite on underbody parts etc as at the time (1980's) it was much better than rubbery underseal products which tended to split over time & allow moisture to get trapped between the sealant & the body making the rust problem worse. I suppose we tend to stick with what we know. Is POR15 a finish product or does need to be painted over. I want a black finish. Also if i clean back my current hammerite finish to key the surface can it be painted on top or does it require going back to bare metal again!

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by REPLIC8</i>

Is POR15 a finish product or does need to be painted over. I want a black finish. Also if i clean back my current hammerite finish to key the surface can it be painted on top or does it require going back to bare metal again!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It won't bond to paint. It has to be bare metal or rusty metal that has no loose surface rust. I prefer as rust free metal as possible but that's just me. It is a finished product but is not UV resistant so it has to be "under car" like suspension parts or it has to be painted over. If to be painted over it needs it's primer as per directions or paint won't stick to it.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[FI Spyder]

It won't bond properly to smooth bare metal either, if that is the case it needs to be treated with Metalready with gives it the rough surface it needs. That's why it bonds so well to rusted metal even if the metal has been de-rusted is the rust pits the surface that allows the product it's superior grip.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[tr7inc]

I think co ive used Hammerite for years & probably continue for the purpose that i use it for, im a very set in my ways type of guy, if it it works! [:D]


Steve
1979 BL Press Car Pre Production Prototype Inca Yellow DHC

[REPLIC8]

Well I don't think I'll be stipping mine back to bare metal as it's in really good condition, just a bit of flaky paint here & there. So it's another coat of hammerite for me.[:)]

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8