???Which Timming Gun???

[zekow1]

Hey
We are now looking on getting a timming Gun.
SO many brands
SOme do nothing but timming

SOme do : vacuum/rpm/Advance functions ( what ever that means)

Some :measure centrifugal

Some:vacuum and computer advance.

I usually consult my Bible ( Comsumer Report) But this type of thing they don't cover.

SO, Any suggestions????[?]

[John Clancy]

I have a 'Gunson Professional' which does points dwell as well as timing and rpm. The timing gun itself is an impressive looking thing as it's all chrome. It cost about £100 three or four years ago.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Workshop Help]

As with most anything, there is the bottom basic model and then there is the top deluxe model. The good news is with our engines, the bottom basic model works just fine.

When checking/setting the ignition timing on our cars, all you're going to do is loosen the two hold down bolts at the base of the distributor and twist the distributor while observing the changes of the timing mark on the timing plate mounted on the front cover of the engine. In the U.S. of A. the factory recommended setting at an idle of about 800RPM is two degrees ATDC. If you disconnect and plug the vacuum hose at the distributor, the timing mark will read 10 degrees BTDC. This may be confusing until you realize that we do not have a vacuum ADVANCE unit. We have a vacuum RETARD unit. The advance of the ignition timing is a mechanical function within the distributor.

Now, some of the people around here like to fiddle with their timing for all sorts of reasons, one of which is she thinks she knows more than the highly experienced engineers who devoted their lives to making this engine the absolute best there ever was. She has set her timing at 2 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM, and likes it just fine that way. But, the choice is up to you.

Mildred Hargis

[saabfast]

If you want one with gizmos at a lower cost consider that well known bay of bits website. I got a Gunson with knobs that I don't know what to do with pretty cheap. It also has an inductive pickup (you put a spring clip thing around the plug lead) rather than the type where you have to remove the lead and plug the lamp connections in line, which makes it easier with hot plugs and you don't need to stop the engine. Main thing is to get a Xenon light rather than neon as its much brighter and easier to use and see the timing scale.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[PeterTR7V8]

The V8s are generally set at 6-8 degrees but don't always trust the timing marks on the pulley. Do the pinking test to find what works best for your motor. I ripped this from the RPI site:

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Its also worth noting that the best ignition timing in any given engine, is to achieve the most advance it can tolerate without pinking. ( Audible pre-ignition).
This is achieved by setting your V8 timing to about 4 deg. BTDC (assuming you've been through the distributor check list completely). Then tighten the distributor so that you can (with effort) still turn it by hand. ideally put a tip-ex mark or small scratch on the distributor body and engine block to record this spot.
Next road test the car and simulate high load by quickly shifting into a high gear or if Auto allow to change quickly up to 3rd or 4th Ideally you need to find a small hill or incline, now if you apply full throttle the engine should respond without pinking, find a safe place to pull over, open the bonnet and turn the distributor through a couple of degrees only, anticlockwise, this will add slightly more advance timing and if you do the same test, and repeat it until pinking is noticed you will be very close to your absolute best timing criteria
So now all you need to do is turn the distributor clockwise by the same amount by an amount to counteract the last adjust, retest for the absence of pinking and that the job done, you will have just achieved the best maximum timing position for your car<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

http://www.v8engines.com/electrics-1.htm


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[zekow1]

WHat is Pinking???

[PeterTR7V8]

Premature ignition causing a rattly noise from the motor. Sounds like "pink pink pink" on some motors but more like a knock on the V8s.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[zekow1]

SO it is different than
tiki/tiki/tiki/tiki?

Hey !there is no sound here ,
so I am trying as best I can
to produce the noise it is making now.

[PeterTR7V8]

Tikitiki may, or may not be normal!

You get pinking when you accelerate, you won't get it unless the motor is under load ie, driving. It is more likely to occur when going up an incline in 3rd or 4th gear. Read the RPI info. Set the timing to 4 deg BTDC & if it pinks retard it to 5 etc until the pinking is minimised or gone altogether. If the timing is too retarded you lose power so you want to find the best balance between pinking & power loss.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

[zekow1]

I lIve in Aventura FLorida
In between Miami & Ft. Lauderdale
No hills or up nothing for about 500 miles .

I do get a kind of dying feeling when I accelarate.
Pinking ha! I will look for that sound Or better said I will hear for that sound.
knocking is what i hear. thats the timing
But it starts Man and that is great.

[FI Spyder]

"Pinking" is english for what we in North America call "pinging".



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[busheytrader]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>
......Do the pinking test to find what works best for your motor......<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is good advice from Peter for the Rover V8. I received the same info from the guys at S&S almost 20 years ago. I only use the strobe gun to make sure that the timing is in the right ball park, after that it's a case of the most advance without the engine pinking. I did it when leaded petrol finally disappeared and more recently when changing distributors. It only takes a 14mm spanner and it's so much easier than the 2.0L engine.

Adam





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[jbsjim]

Zeke,

I think Mildred nailed it. Mine is a cheapy, probably cast no more than $30 or so years ago. Just get a bright one you can see in daylight. Some of the more sophisticated guns will test "total" advance which is a useful thing to know I guess.

For my MGB which has no Smog regulation in California (1963) I set the timing at about 10 degrees BTDC and then test it on the road trying to induce pinging. I live in a valley too. I like to take it up to maybe 30 MPH and put the car in 4th and gun it. If you're too far advanced you'll hear it.

For the TR7 I need to keep the timing at 2 degrees ATDC for Smog testing. I'll play with it a bit after we jump that hurdle.

Glad it's running!

Jim