Clutch slave cylinder length - ?

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 25 Sep 2009 20:05

I tried to bleed my clutch today and had trouble from the word go. Finally I did get positive resistance, but immediately that went from "firm resistance" to "rock solid". It turned out that the clutch fork had come away from the thrust washer and fallen into the base of the bell housing, so off the gearbox had to come - oh how we laughed [:(!][:(!]. It probably happened when fitting the gearbox.

So, off came the gearbox. Trust me, it was a lot easier fitting the clutch fork with the gearbox out of the car on a bench! Finally we decided it was going to be easier removing the gearbox from under the car, and lots of swearing and sweating later the box was ready to go back on.

However, before reassembling, I looked deeper at the set-up and think that my push-rod might be too short, so would appreciate some advice.

When pushed fully in, the end of the push-rod sits about 1/2 inch inside the bell- housing, so I cannot see how the piston in the slave cylinder could actually impinge on the push-rod, and therefore no clutch.

Can anybody tell me if I am correct, and if so how far out of the housing should the end of the rod protrude? Maybe I've reassmbled the mechanism incorrectly but I don't think I have, although come to think of it the gearbox was in gear. If anybody can shed any light on this I' d be eternally thankful because I'd like to have the car running next week.

Once again, thanks for all your help,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

jclay (RIP 2018) · Postby **jclay (RIP 2018)** » 25 Sep 2009 20:50

1. Did you replace the fulcrum pin? They are different lengths.

2. Did you hook the pushrod to the lever with the white clip?

Did you replace the slip connectors on the lever pins?

Did you lock the lever to the fulcrum pin with the metal clip on the back of the lever?

Check the dimple on the lever as they usually push through as soon as you install the gearbox. Triumph fluck!

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 26 Sep 2009 12:57

Thanks jclay.

In answer to your questions above, I didn't change anything because all the bits looked okay - can you let me know the importance of changing these bits (fulcrum pins and slip-connectors) because I might be having to take the gearbox off again and will change these if appropriate.

Below is a picture of the assembly as I removed it, so you can see (apart from a bit of grease!!) the fork I've got and put back in.

The picture above is exactly how I reassembled the bits, and I've fitted a new clutch plate to the engine. I reused the white clip to attach the push-rod.

The major problem to me appears that the push-rod sits inside the bell-housing when pulled fully forward, so the slave-cylinder piston cannot act upon it. I am at a loss as to what the problem might be and am considering making a sleeve to extend the push-rod proud of the gearbox housing - am I approaching this completely wrongly and is there a more sinister problem or should that solve the issue? Is the fact that the car is in gear going to have any influence on all this?

Cheers,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

jclay (RIP 2018) · Postby **jclay (RIP 2018)** » 26 Sep 2009 13:44

OK, there are two different clutch housings sold for TR7s, but one is incorrect and could be causing your problem.

Thank Beans for the photo!

Everything else looks correct.

jclay

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Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 26 Sep 2009 13:50

Dear Friend,

The length of my clutch push rod measures right at 5 3/8". I have several and they all are the same.

[img][IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm303/eebtr7/IMAG0001-4.jpg[/img][/img]

It is vital to realize the clutch slave cylinder penetrates into the bell housing hole and that the actual movement of the piston is limited to well less than 1/2" of travel. And, that travel is located towards the back or pushrod area of the cylinder. Could you be worrying about something that is normal?

Mildred Hargis

P.S. May I suggest you pull off the front cover of the gearbox and replace the oil seal and gasket? That appears to be an excess amount of oil inside the bell housing. Or, could it be the engine rear main seal? Are you sure you polished the bore of the clutch slave cylinder to prevent leakage?

So many questions.

M.H.

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 27 Sep 2009 12:53

Thanks everybody for all your suggestions so far. I reckon slowly, slowly is the order of the day so I plan to remove the gearbox again ([V]) and confirm I've attached the fork and push-rod correctly. I am convinced that I have, but why rush now? Can anybody confirm the position of the push-rod when all is connected - should it protrude from , be flush with or recessed into bell-housing, and if so, by how much? Can (or should) I adjust the final position by moving the spigot in or out?

At the same time I'll take the opportunity to replace both the gearbox seal and gasket; is this an easy job? I'd also consider replacing the engine rear main seal if this isn't too difficult, so does anybody have any thoughts on this? I'll check out the manual as well, but as you all know, you can't beat the benefit of experience.

Thanks again,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 27 Sep 2009 13:56

You question about the pushrod is somewhat nebulous, the position of pushrod varies as it goes back and forth. Provided your fulcrum pin is the correct one, as our friend Jclay mentioned, it's all a matter of sewing it back together, all the while maintaining the pushrod and fork do not become dislodged. Do avail yourself of longish needle nose pliers to hold the rod when either removing or reinstalling the slave cylinder so it does not come loose. As I noted earlier, the slave clyinder does penetrate into the bell housing, thus the pushrod stays inside the cylinder.

Mildred Hargis

jclay (RIP 2018) · Postby **jclay (RIP 2018)** » 27 Sep 2009 20:49

Ok, If you are taking it out anyway, mount yhe slave cylinder to the bell housing. Remember that you would have a 3/8" plate there when you put the engine/trnas together. but you will be able to see if it fits.

The trans seal shouldn't be too hard, but I have never replaced on.

The engine rear seal is another story. First you will have to make a tool from steel strapping to keep the engine from turning when you remove the flywheel. See top of flywheel:

BE CAREFUL!! The flywheel is surprisingly heavy and the teeth are sharp! Took a month for my arm to heal after protecting the garage floor from being dented by the flywheel.

The rear seal is fairly easy but you will have to remove the two bottom pan bolts to get the housing out.

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 04 Oct 2009 14:14

I HAVE CLUTCH [:D]

I (we [;)] ) took the gearbox off for a fourth time ([:(!]) and first place to start was to remove the clutch plate, just to make sure that had been put in correctly - it had [:)]. Was contemplating extending the pushrod with a sleeve, but had one last thing to consider - the fulcrum spigot itself. When checked against a spare it was discovered that the one fitted was a good centimeter or 2 shorter than the spare, so a quick swap around, refit the gearbox and Bob is now my Uncle - fantastic feel and resistance.

So, my dear boys and girls, chaps and chapesses, thank you very much [:)] for all of your help. Once again, it's got me out of a pickle. As a result of this thread I have changed the slippers, gearbox seal and gasket, so all those jobs have been done where they wouldn't have if I'd not asked the question. I only hope they don't leak now [:(].

I should now be able to go for ignition next weekend. I'll drag the car forward, pump a few gallons of water through the system to flush it out and then top her up. Then it'll be the big countdown, so watch this space. Hopefully there'll be some good news next week, but don't hold your breath.

Thanks again,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 04 Oct 2009 14:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by macmattom

...I (we [;)] ) took the gearbox off for a fourth time ([:(!]) <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Always look on the bright side of life ...
Now it will be very easy for you in future to take the 'box from the car,
as you've had plenty of exercise by now [:D]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 04 Oct 2009 14:33

Cheers, Beans, but I won't ever need to take the gearbox off again - it's been off so many times this last week that it now knows how to take itself off [:D].

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

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Clutch slave cylinder length - ?

Clutch slave cylinder length - ?

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