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Fuel tank mod

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nick
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Fuel tank mod

Postby nick » 23 Sep 2009 00:39

There was a fuel tank thread recently about fabricating one. That got me to thinking about my tank. I had it fixed about 2 years ago but it has started leaking again. I noticed while patching it that the bottom is pretty thin. I believe the rest of the tank is good. So, I thought, why not cut the bottom out about 3 inches up the side walls. Use that as a mold and make a fiberglass bottom. Rivet it in place and seal. How's that for an idea?

nick

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 23 Sep 2009 01:54

Bond fiberglass to metal to hold gasoline in a hostile environment (hot, cold, vibration)... don't like it. The people who recondition them weld in new sections (for gas tanks that are no longer available.) Time to bite the bullit and order a new one or find a good used one. FI TR7's take a different tank, for those in that boat, and only available in UK.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 23 Sep 2009 02:40

Nick, it's not too hard to repair your tank with a bit of plate.

When the one in my current car started leaking, I cut up an old one.
I found that most of that tank,[& the other one, as discovered
later] was in perfect condition internally.

IT IS ONLY A 3" WIDE STRIP at the bottom front of both tanks that
was rusty. The rest of both tanks still had a grey coating, in good
condition. This strip is at the lowest point of the tank, as it sits
in the car, & is where any water will sit.

I took this lot to my pannel beater, who said "no problem". He cut a
full width, 4" wide strip out of the bottom of the tank, which
included a little bit of the front curve. He cut a replacement
panel, ran it once through a forming wheel, to put the bit of curve
in the front edge of it, & welded it in. All in less than 2 hours, &
A$50. Yes he is a mate.

One thing I really do enjoy, is watching a good tradesman at work.
This bloke is pretty to watch.

It cost more for the POR15 I used to treat the thing internally.

That was 6 years ago, & I've had no problem since. Importing a tank
would have cost a kings ransom.

Repairing the tank, particularly for those who can do their own rust
repairs, is not too big a deal, no where near as much work, as
getting the thing out & back in. That back in, single handed is a
bit of a big deal.

Hasbeen

Marko
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Postby Marko » 23 Sep 2009 08:22

check my blog, im doing the tank repairs

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... hichpage=3


"fiberglass" tank could be made, but whole in one piece because the interface between the metal and composite would be imposible to seal.

then the material selection, forget about glass fibres and polyester resin, because the fuel will eat up the poliester resin.

i would use epoxi resin and aramid fibres, so the tank is a bit elastic (vibration proof). counting the amount of labor and material spent on moulds and working hours, it would be cheaper to order a brand new one from england with shipping.

find yourself a nearby workshop for fixing stuff like that.

oh one more thing , wash the fuel tank with plenty of water from the inside , to remove the debris from the bottom of the tank and any fuel. let it dry thoroughly because any welder with a gram of gray matter in his head wont weld on a tank smelling of petrol.

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 23 Sep 2009 20:48

New Tanks are available from TD Fitchet in the UK.

There is one mod you could consider for all new and old tanks, weld in a drain plug in the bottom. These are easy to add and allow you to avoid all the trouble we speak of here.

I did this and am pleased with the result.

Jolyon

Odd
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Postby Odd » 24 Sep 2009 07:53

Do you have a position for the tap? Where exactly is the lowest point of the tank - when it sits in a car standing on its four wheels?

tr7sprint1
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Postby tr7sprint1 » 24 Sep 2009 17:24

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jolyon39</i>


New Tanks are available from TD Fitchet in the UK.

There is one mod you could consider for all new and old tanks, weld in a drain plug in the bottom. These are easy to add and allow you to avoid all the trouble we speak of here.

I did this and am pleased with the result.

Jolyon
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Please supply a picture of your drain plug.

Thanks

<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 24 Sep 2009 23:59

Odd, it's 50mm back from the front face of the tank. This is where
the curve up to the front has just started. I'd put it rtight to one
side, so you could get the last bit, by jacking the other side up a
bit.

I find it hard to believe that I was too stupid to put a drain in
mine, while it was getting rebuilt.

Hasbeen

Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 25 Sep 2009 00:43

Hi,

The car is in storage so I can not get a photo until after the weekend. (Off to the snow with 12 teenage scouts, teaching them to use an ice axe)

I will post it next week.

It is just a nut welded to the tank with a special bolt as far asi remember. The fuel tank guy supplied it.

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 25 Sep 2009 01:22

Sometimes I can't believe this world, Jolyon

Oz is not that far from NZ, & yesterday I had the airconditioning on
all day, & your off to the snow.

The only snow we have, is the snow like dust left behind by our
2000Km long summer type dust storm, which dropped visability to less
than 100Mt in most of east Oz.

Hasbeen

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 25 Sep 2009 02:48

I believe is NZ is much like BC Coast where half or more of the year you can windsurf and ski on the same day.

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PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 25 Sep 2009 03:04

Hasbeen, we've just had your dust storm blow in but the heat keeps getting lost in the mail.

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Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 25 Sep 2009 07:40

Sorry Peter, I'll check with the post office, & see if they can find
what happened to it for you.

Hasbeen

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