Hints before starting engine first time in years

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 23 Sep 2009 15:10

I am hoping to try to start my 2.0 ltr 8V engine for the first time since I've owned the car (2 1/2 years [:(]), but more likely the first time in well over 5 years.

Can anybody give me any good tips before I begin because I don't want to make a right hash of it now, this far down the line. I have put NO oils/lubes in yet, so reckon I'll do one system at a time. This is my proposed plan, and I'd appreciate any tips or "gotcha"s to give me the best chance of success.

1) Fill and bleed brakes and clutch with Dot 4 fluid.

2) Fill the coolant system and hope that doesn't leak. I plan to leave that water in for a while before flushing out the system and adding a suitable anti-freeze. Is normal tap-water going to be okay for a while, or do I need to consider any alternatives or additives?

3) Fill the engine with a cheap 20W50 oil. I'll use that to get the engine going and for the first 50 miles or so, then drain it, change the old filter for a new one and add Castrol 20W50 with a splash of STP.

5) Gearbox and differential oil, again, el cheapo(ish) stuff to get the car going then drain and refill with top quality stuff.

4) A gallon of unleaded to check the integrity of the fuel system and give me a fighting chance of getting the engine running! Once I get confidence I'll increase the amount by a gallon at a time.

Now for the big question - what are the best brand and model of spark-plugs that I'll need to buy? I have put a new condensor and set of contacts in, but will have a go with the original spark-plug leads to start with.

That's my plan - are there any glaring flaws or omissions that could save me from making a monumental mistake? I'd also appreciate that if you think this plan appears okay could you give me some feedback so I can gain some confidence [:)].

Thanks very much for any help - wish me luck!!

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

MickeyR · Postby **MickeyR** » 23 Sep 2009 17:02

Hi, Mac -

Check here for a great write-up:

http://theautoist.com/awakening_a_sleeping_b.htm

While it's specifically for MGB's, all the basics are covered.

Your plan sounds fine. As for spark plugs, there are several good choices. I like NGK's (probably BPR-5ES); others are partial to Champions, Bosch, etc.

As for water, I like using distilled water - less chance of scaling and other buildup.

Best,
Mickey

Urchin · Postby **Urchin** » 23 Sep 2009 17:34

Hi Mac,

What I would add to the recommendations is the suggestion that you crank the engine with the "coil" wire pulled out of the distributor. Of course, it won't start but it will build up oil pressure in the cylinders before any igniting of the spark plugs. To prevent flooding, you might take a brake clamp and shut off the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs; that way you won't foul up the plugs, too.

I'd crank it for 15 seconds or so before hooking the wire and releasing the clamp.

Good luck with the first start!

Jeff

Jeffrey Aronson
P.O. Box 90
Vinalhaven, ME 04863
USA
'80 TR-7 Spider
'66 Land Rover Series II-A [2]
'66 Corvair Monza
www.landroverwriter.com

REPLIC8 · Postby **REPLIC8** » 23 Sep 2009 17:41

I would advise against using plain water in the cooling system, the antifreeze also acts as a corrosion inhibitor which is vital in a TR7 engine. Also we're heading into the colder months & a surprise frost could freeze the water & knacker your engine.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

cliff · Postby **cliff** » 23 Sep 2009 17:55

Beware, clamping an old fuel line to stop the fuel flow could cause a LEAK, if a new fuel line, no problem.
With spark plugs removed a quick squirt of engine oil into the cylinder will lessen the posibility of scoring damage caused by starting with a dry cylinder wall. GOOD LUCK!!!!![:D]
CLIFF[8D]

Don't use force, get a bigger hammer!!

Workshop Help · Postby **Workshop Help** » 23 Sep 2009 21:18

Have you forgotten to perform certain secret rituals to the select Pagan deities that inhabit your car like they do every other TR7 ever made?

Mildred Hargis

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 23 Sep 2009 22:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by macmattom

... what are the best brand and model of spark-plugs that I'll need to buy ... but will have a go with the original spark-plug leads to start with.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I have been using NGK BP5ES over the years, can't find fault with them.
Used Champion before that but they needed very regular re-adjustment of the gaps.
Not neccesary with the NGK plugs

As for the spark plug leads, be prepared you'll have to put a decent new set on [:p]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

Marko · Postby **Marko** » 23 Sep 2009 23:02

if the engine wasnt run for 5 years, are you shure that you can even turn it over by hand (socket wrench on the front pulley).

-take the spark plugs out,
-squirt a bit of oil down the bores,
-replace the oil filter with a new one, new oil in the engine,
-crank it over for couple of 10-15 sec intervals with no sparkplugs, that way the piston rings or the bearings will do the least amount of work ( no compression or expansion of gases)

- check if you have fuel in the system, diafragm of the fuel pump could have gone south being dry for 5 years.
-check the carb floats for sticking, check if the acceleration pumps in the carbs squit

if you have fuel,

-spark plugs back in
-start the engine

saabfast · Postby **saabfast** » 23 Sep 2009 23:09

Note that the diff does not have a drain plug so is difficult to empty of the 'cheapo oil'. If it is in good condition it might be better to go for a decent hypoid 90 to start with then forget it.

If the gearbox is 5 speed get a cheap ATF from a factor (I get Comma to the handbook spec at around Â£14 a gallon, although this is probably better than the stuff around when the car was built), then you can decide on the change whether to use ATF or MTF.

Check the dizzy cap is clean (no condensation etc inside) and no signs of tracking.

NGK plugs were the best (Saabs will only run properly with them) but they are made in France now and I have had a few duff ones. Probably still better than Champion though, although I did fit a set of Champs last in sorting a problem (turned out not to be the plugs) and they are still running after 1000 odd miles!

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 23 Sep 2009 23:10

Unless the engine hes been out in the open it shouldn't have seized after only five years.
When I swapped engines in the DHC a few years ago I put in an engine that hadn't been used for 10 years.
I only changed the oil seals, give it a thorough service and started it up [;)]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 24 Sep 2009 02:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by macmattom
[br1)

4) A gallon of unleaded to check the integrity of the fuel system and give me a fighting chance of getting the engine running! Once I get confidence I'll increase the amount by a gallon at a time.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Is the gas tank empty? If not the gas will likely have gone bad. My yellow TCT wasn't run in four years. The tank was full of bad gas. When the PO tried to start it to see if it would run it poured gas out of the carbs probably all varnished up.

On the other hand my FI Spider was stored for 7 years and didn't hear of any problems. It had new plugs, Dizzy rotor and cap. Don't know if it had any stabilizer put in it.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

andyf · Postby **andyf** » 24 Sep 2009 20:21

You also may find that you need more than a gallon of fuel before the pipe in the tank picks it up. I think it took more than 2 gallons before fuel started coming through.

1980 persian aqua DHC

Marko · Postby **Marko** » 25 Sep 2009 12:02

is it alive?

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 25 Sep 2009 19:50

The good news is that it's not dead!!

I spent a fair while today sorting out the brakes and clutch - the 4-pot brakes are superb now but the clutch caused a few problems (separate topic to follow [:(]). New spark plugs were purchased ready to go in (NGK BPR 5ES) but I had other jobs to do first.

I then learned a very stupid lesson - before you pour 5 litres of oil into the rocker cover, make sure the half-moon grommets are fitted to the ends of the head [:o)][:o)]!. The worst thing was that I'd got them out and thought "DO NOT forget to put these babies in", then promptly forgot. Oh well, no use crying over it - probably only lost half a litre or so, but oh my, doesn't that much oil go a long way. A few oily rags later and we were ready to turn the engine.

I'd already poured 12 litres of petrol into the tank (so almost 3 gallons) a bit at a time, and no leaks as yet. With a good squirt of oil down the bores beforehand, I finally turned the key after 2 1/2 years of toil. The engine turned over beautifully (obviously didn't start as the plugs were out) but it sounded smooth and effortless. I gave it a good 20 seconds of cranking, then paused for a while and a further 20 seconds. By now it was getting late, so I have decided descretion is the best part of valour and have called it quits until next Friday.

All in all, today has been really positive, except for the clutch slave cylinder push-rod being too short, necessitating a gearbox out/in on top of all my other jobs. I'm really hoping that next weekend I can chase down any remaining gremlins and will be adding to the greenhouse gases [:D], pouring 20 - 30 mpg worth of exhaust smoke into the atmosphere (hopefully nearer 30 mpg worth[:D]).

Thank you to all of you guys who answered my initial question at the start of this topic because it gave me a great deal of confidence in finally turning the key. Hopefully next weekend I will be telling you all how my eyes are wet with tears of joy after having driven my TR7 for a mile or so, but don't quote me on that!

Thanks again,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 25 Sep 2009 21:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by macmattom

... Hopefully next weekend I will be telling you all how my eyes are wet with tears of joy ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Glad to hear you aren't rushing it.
Take your time and remain patient [;)]

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

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Hints before starting engine first time in years

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