Heated rear window & seat belt warning lights

[macmattom]

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">I am having trouble getting my heated rear window to work, and before I go tearing out wires and relays, etc, was wondering if it only worked if the engine was running? Sounds unlikely to me, but as everything else is working I just had a thought that, as it'll drain a lot of power, there just <i><b>might</b></i> a chance it's wired through the engine running.

I have the same problem with the "Fasten Seat Belts" warning light. Again, is it wired through the ignition (engine not running, car not moving - no need for seat belts? As before, just a wild stab in the dark but if anybody knows, it'll be you guys & girls.

Thanks,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

[macmattom]

Oh yes - could it be that there's not enough juice in the battery? It's kicking out 13 volts, but I'm not sure what the current is, and as it's an old battery, could it be too low?

Just plucking at straws!

Cheers.

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

[busheytrader]

Hi,

Mine's a DHC and I use the HRW part of the loom for something else. It was simple enough to fit a switch in the original place.

If the ignition switch is off, it's deactivated. If the ignition switch is on, it receives power whether the engine is running or not.

I find it's the same for the seat belt sign.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[macmattom]

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Thanks Adam. That's what I was expecting but obviously not what I wanted! Back to the wiring diagram [:(].

Cheers,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

[macmattom]

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Oh boy, do I feel stupid [:o)]. Went back to the drawing board with the heated rear window and started all over again. I tried the switch again - no joy. Then by chance I glanced into the guts of the switch and noticed my faux-pas. In my efforts to ensure everything worked when I finally connected it all together, I'd completely stripped down all the switches and cleaned the contacts. The only snag was that I'd forgotten to put the contacts back into the rear window switch [:I][:I]. Once I'd rectified that, first attempt and the warning light lit and 12 volts were detected at the rear window connections - success [:D][:D][:D][:D].

I just have to wait now to see if the heating elements all work and the window actually clears any misting/frost.

That'll teach me, but at least I should have a happy ending[:)].</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/