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At least it is not as bad as a 70s GM car ,,,

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tipo158
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At least it is not as bad as a 70s GM car ,,,

Postby tipo158 » 28 May 2009 01:07

I am removing the interior of my car in preparation for the roll cage. I am working my way down to the sound deadening so I can hit the stuff with dry ice to make it easier to break up.

Today I removed the seats and the remains of the carpets. Underneath the driver side seat, there were a few pop rivet remnants pressed into the sound deadening material. Underneath the passenger seat, there were a bunch of fender washers in the space between the outer seat base structure and the sill. They were held in place by dried paint from the original painting of the car. Some of them were partially painted in that reddish primer color and the rest painted the exterior color. Not the worst thing to find, but still kind of sloppy work.

At least it isn't as bad as some 70s GM cars where the workers would leave apple cores inside the door.

alan

Beans
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Postby Beans » 28 May 2009 20:43

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tipo158</i>

... the sound deadening so I can hit the stuff with dry ice to make it easier to break up...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Use a hot-air paint stripper, works much better [;)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

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Postby Underdog » 28 May 2009 21:39

I took apart a Buick door back in the late 70s and found a styrofoam coffee cup. Evidently not much pride in work then.

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tipo158
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Postby tipo158 » 28 May 2009 21:57

Originally posted by tipo158:
the sound deadening so I can hit the stuff with dry ice to make it easier to break up

Originally posted by Beans:
Use a hot-air paint stripper, works much better [;)]

Is this specific to the TR7 sound deadening material or your general experience? Cold rather than heat seems to be concensus among the US rally community. They say that heat just makes a big mess.

Does a heat gun count as a 'hot-air paint stripper' or is that something else?

I am gonna try the dry ice anyway just so I can play around with it afterward [:D]

The first section of sound deadening came off really easy and I was thinking "this isn't going to be so bad". Then the second section put up significantly more resistance and I still don't have it all off.

alan

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Postby Beans » 28 May 2009 22:20

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tipo158</i>

Is this specific to the TR7 sound deadening material or your general experience? ... Does a heat gun count as a 'hot-air paint stripper' or is that something else?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Well I stripped the sound deadening material from my DHC a few months ago. Warmed it gently with a hot-air paint stripper and it went of without a problem ...

Image

Just make sure you don't overheat it.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

tipo158
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Postby tipo158 » 29 May 2009 03:35

The heat gun worked. Thanks.

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