Rotting from the inside out.

[busheytrader]

I'm finally getting round to skipping my original tank. It was replaced a year or two ago. What a nice job that was.[:0]

For those of us that haven't replaced the tank yet, here's a taste of what you've got to look forward to. Both lower front corners and the middle have rotted out, there are several holes now if you want to play Where's Wally (Where's Waldo stateside).

I replaced mine after 1 pinhole appeared. There are now more than 10, some are bigger than others.






Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[john 215]

Hi Adam,
Exactly what happened to mine [:(!] I had what appeared like a damp spot on the base of the tank, but once given a poke! soon proved to be a hole[:(] When i drained it must have been several pints of water came out before the petrol [:0] (drained it by making the small hole bigger with a screwdriver [:p] ) Would be great if someone made stainless steel replacements, because of all the painting and waxoyl on the outside wont stop the rust on the inside!! Convinced some of this water gets down the key hole in locking fuel caps mine DID have one on now in the bin!!
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

[bmcecosse]

I'm sure someone suggested adding some methylated spirits to the petrol tank from time to time - this would absorb any water and be carried through with the petrol. Has anyone tried this ?? I think the idea was to do this shortly before a winter-lay up period?

[john 215]

Hi,
One thing i did consider doing was, before i fitted my new tank!, welding in a drain plug so once a year drain the contents out to try and prevent the build up of water over a few years.
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

[Hasbeen]

John, I'm still kicking myself for not fitting drain plugs in the
TR7 fuel tanks I have repaired.

I use Morey's upper cylinder lubricant in all my cars now, after
noticing that the cup or so of water in one tank, where I used the
stuff, was yellow & oily.

I think the Morey's dissolves preferentially in water, as the water
was yellow, & oily. That water was not going to rust any tank, as I
had trouble getting the oily residue out of the bucket I had
syphoned the last of the tank contents, into.

I have repaired 3 TR7 tanks. Two, I cut the rusty bit out of the
bottom/front of the tank, & welded a strip of metal in. I then
treated the tanks with the POR15 tank repair, internal coating
system. The oldest of these repairs is now almost 6 years old.

The last one I got lazy, & just brazed up the pin hole, & did the
POR15 thing. That was 4 years ago, & so far no trouble.

I believe most of the water is condensation. One of my 7s had not
been driven in the rain, & lived in a very large car port, but had
over a cup of water in the tank, 2 years after a tank repair job. It
had a standard fuel cap, & the filler well did not fill up with
water, when the car was washed.

Hasbeen

[Rblackadar]

A little dry gas never hurt. It would help with the moisture problem.

[FI Spyder]

Just to point out the POR-15 fuel tank system is a four part process. The fist to disolve any varnish. The second to convert any rust. The third to etch the surface. Finally the coating that prevents any further rust. Other systems that skip any steps risk the coating not bonding and flaking off. When I do my tanks I'll be doing the POR-15 method even though it costs about a hundred bucks.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Hasbeen]

Yes Spyder, as you say, it is expensive. In the UK it probably makes
more sense to buy a new tank. If they give the 20 years plus life of
the old ones, they are good value.

Here in the colonies, it is just so expensive to ship empty tin cans
from the UK, repair makes sense, & POR 15 is proven.

I don't mind repairing things once, but I really hate doing things
for a second time. Good luck with yours mate.

Hasbeen

[busheytrader]

Typical Triumph huh?

I can't see me having this problem with my 13 year old Golf Gti in 10 years time.

Plastic tank..........[:)]

Adam

[nofinchance]

Plastic tanks are great.With all the different cars out there is there not one that will fit the tr? Just a thought.

[Odd]

If you make a habit of pouring half a litre of (any) 100% pure alcohol (methanol, ethanol, propa-
nol or such) into the tank roughly every second to third fill-up
- you never get any water collect/stay in the tank. It's all burned with the fuel.

If you add to this habit the habit of always filling the tank <u>full</u> when filling up and <u>never</u> store
the car for any period of time (more than a few weeks) without the tank being filled to the rim
- you never get any water condensate into the tank.

For those of us with E85, or such, at the pump:
Just squirt a few litres of this into the tank first, and then fill-up (to the rim as explained above)
with the petrol of choice. Never any rust inflicting water collection in a E85 vehicle you know...

If your petrol is already premixed with 10% ethanol (and provided your tank lid is non-vented
and tight and the lid recess drains as designed) you should never find any water in your tank...

Rust problem solved!

And don't forget: A table spoon of modern ashless 2-stroke oil in each tankful does wonders for
your fuel injection pump and the injectors. And it further vaccinates the tank metal inner surface...

[TR7Aaron]

Adding chemicals to the fuel may cause problems with oxygen sensors and/or catalytic converters (if your car is so equipped), so it may extend the life of the tank, but may cause it to fail emissions testing (if you need to pass for licensing). Just a thought...

Aaron



Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

[john 215]

Hi,
I have a old Drag Racing shirt with this written on it-

PETROL IS FOR WASHING PARTS
ALCOHOL IS FOR DRINKING
AND NITRO IS FOR RACING!!

We dont get Methanol ect at the pumps over here, all the hoodies would be drinking it!! The only thing about leaving a full tank is that over a period of time fuel does 'go off' dont it [?][?] But i guess cheaper than a new tank!
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

[Underdog]

Perhaps I am just lucky but my original tank looks fine. I had the pump & sending unit out and didn't see any evidence of corrosion. Some surface rust starting on the outside but I sandblasted it, primed with epoxy and painted black urethane. Maybe this car has had a charmed life.[:D]

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[Odd]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Adding chemicals to the fuel may cause problems with oxygen sensors and/or catalytic converters (if your car is so equipped),
so it may extend the life of the tank, but may cause it to fail emissions testing (if you need to pass for licensing). Just a thought... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you by chemicals refer to the alcohols and 2-stroke oil I mentioned above it's no problem whatsoever for neither the lambda
sensors nor the catalytic converters - for the simple fact they only see them as already burned up (oxidised) hydro carbons.
So, for them it's nothing different to burned up petrol...

But you must make sure it's <u>modern</u> <i><b>ashless</b></i> 2-stroke oil, since this is formulated without any metal etc. contents.
The 'dirty' 2-stroke oils of yesteryear is a definite no-no - for the exact reasons you listed.