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Rebuilding front suspension

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macmattom
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Rebuilding front suspension

Postby macmattom » 10 Apr 2009 17:54

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="3"><font color="blue">Now this might be difficult to explain without pictures but I'll have a go!

I'm trying to rebuild the front subframe back into the car, but am having troubles understanding the Rimmer Bros catalogue. This shows a spacer (UKC 309 and UKC 308) which appears to fit into the mounting rubber upper (round, flat, rubber spacer) that sits between the frame and the subframe. I have 2 different size spacers - long and short. My first question is which size goes to the front and which to the back? My second question is , can I leave these out, and what would be the results on handling?

The catalogue also shows a big flat washer (4 off - UKC 670) that fits into the recess in the underside of the subframe between the subframe and the lower mounting rubber - again, is this important and what happens if I leave it out?

Any advice you can give would be very greatly appreciated - I might even visit Rimmers tomorrow if the bits are that important!

I've added a couple of pictures of the refurbished/rebuilt subframe - I hope you agree but I think it looks pretty good.

Image

Image

As an aside, are we allowed to use Rimmer Bros website pictures to assist any questions or are they copyright protected?

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Steve @ SandS
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Postby Steve @ SandS » 10 Apr 2009 18:09

UKC 670 fits between the top subframe bushes and the chassis.

The spacer tubes fit short one to the front along with the top hat spacer and the long spacer tube to the rear.

You MUST fit these.

Steve @ S&S Preparations

tr7inc
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Postby tr7inc » 10 Apr 2009 18:48

Mac, good to see you are back at the car, hope the seats i did where ok really, give me a bell and we'll get togther of easter sometime
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Postby Marko » 10 Apr 2009 22:24

Image

on you have the front marked on the picture , so ukc309 is on the front , ukc308 in the rear.

these spaces are probably used because of the available thread on the bolt that goes trough them. they cant influence the handling of the car.

on the other hand , since the subframe isn't perfectly flat that washer UKC670 is what makes the rubber bush deform evenly when you torque up the bolts of the subframe, that is makes the rubber subframe bush do its job right.

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Postby Beans » 10 Apr 2009 23:49

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by macmattom</i>
[br} ...can I leave these out, and what would be the results on handling?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
As Steve stated, you must fit them otherwise the handling of your car will be rather sloppy ...

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
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macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 11 Apr 2009 10:01

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Guys, once again I'm indebted to you. There's enough here already to convince me a visit to Rimmers is in order today.

That's annoying because I work 30 miles from Robsport where the overall cost is only £25 ish (less with second hand items) but live 20 miles from Rimmers where the cost is over £40; unfortunately I will end up going to Rimmers because I'm not back at work for a week and want to push ahead with the rebuild.

Thanks again,

Mac</font id="size2"></font id="blue"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 12 Apr 2009 20:29

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Okay, now I’ve bought the bits I have a big dilemma. I simply don’t believe the drawing in the Rimmers catalogue http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr7/images/52b.gif can be right, so would be grateful if anybody could help me out if possible.

As I read the drawing, the bolts feed through washers UKC312 and then through the chassis. Mounting rubber upper 155793 sits between the chassis and the subframe with spacers UKC308 and UKC309 pushed into the holes, and the bolt feeding through the spacers. This would mean the top face of the spacers and the upper mounting rubbers sit flush against the bottom of the chassis, with the remainder of the length of the spacers poking into the holes in the subframe legs. I would expect washers UKC670 to fit snugly into the recess in the bottom of the subframe legs, with mounting rubber lower and locking nuts then holding the whole lot together.

But this is my problem – the extra length of the rear spacers UKC308 means they appear to be too long and push down on the top of washers UKC670 so I can’t tighten the subframe up against the mounting rubber uppers enough to grip them tightly. The front appears okay.

I am planning to saw the rear spacers UKC308 down to the same length as the front ones, but would like to know if there’s a reason I shouldn’t. I have spent ages trying to reason with myself that the drawings are right, but can’t see it somehow.

Please, please, please: if anybody can help I’d be very grateful.
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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 12 Apr 2009 21:09

Mac,

Don't cut down the spacers. The problem is usually the spacers rusting away which makes location of the bushes less positive.

I replaced all my subframe bushes and spacers last year but as I replaced one corner at a time it was easy to change like for like. Have you got all the parts correctly supplied and identified? They are different front to back including the bolts. Everything should match up as per the BL drawing on Rimmer's site.

Adam

Image

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Steve @ SandS
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Postby Steve @ SandS » 12 Apr 2009 21:24

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by macmattom</i>

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Okay, now I’ve bought the bits I have a big dilemma. I simply don’t believe the drawing in the Rimmers catalogue http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr7/images/52b.gif can be right, so would be grateful if anybody could help me out if possible.

As I read the drawing, the bolts feed through washers UKC312 and then through the chassis. Mounting rubber upper 155793 sits between the chassis and the subframe with spacers UKC308 and UKC309 pushed into the holes, and the bolt feeding through the spacers. This would mean the top face of the spacers and the upper mounting rubbers sit flush against the bottom of the chassis, with the remainder of the length of the spacers poking into the holes in the subframe legs. I would expect washers UKC670 to fit snugly into the recess in the bottom of the subframe legs, with mounting rubber lower and locking nuts then holding the whole lot together.

But this is my problem – the extra length of the rear spacers UKC308 means they appear to be too long and push down on the top of washers UKC670 so I can’t tighten the subframe up against the mounting rubber uppers enough to grip them tightly. The front appears okay.

I am planning to saw the rear spacers UKC308 down to the same length as the front ones, but would like to know if there’s a reason I shouldn’t. I have spent ages trying to reason with myself that the drawings are right, but can’t see it somehow.

Please, please, please: if anybody can help I’d be very grateful.
</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

UKC670 fit on top of the bush 155793, therefore it fits BETWEEN the bush 155793 and the chassis.It does not fit to the underside of the subframe as you think.

Steve @ S&S Preparations

macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 12 Apr 2009 23:26

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Steve, that is great. It makes sense now, and first thing tomorrow I'll be on it like a rash. I think the drawing is a bit misleading and would never have thought of that. Thanks very much,

Mac</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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moestr7v8
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Postby moestr7v8 » 13 Apr 2009 01:32

Mac no disrespect to Rimmers, but you are better off contacting S+S for parts because you will find in most cases either Rick,Steve or Simon will usually discuss the parts you want order and give you excellent advice on fitting and usually the best way to do it they have been a great help to me in the past and I hope in the future [8D]
Oh and by the way they don't charge for advice that comes free [;)]
Regards
Moe

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tr7inc
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Postby tr7inc » 13 Apr 2009 06:31

Hi Moe, well said and couldnt have expressed it any better, Mac god luck with it today i will try and call round if i can .... so get the kettle on.
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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 13 Apr 2009 07:54

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by moestr7v8</i>


Oh and by the way they don't charge for advice that comes free [;)]
Regards
Moe
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Moe is spot on here. When I converted my 7 to V8 (many years ago) with an S&S kit they said to call up if I had any questions. I had a few but as they know their 7's inside out it only took a few minutes. Robsport will do the same.

Rimmer's catalogues and drawings are great but sometimes asking a question on a part or how it fits together, generates a response similar to that from a B&Q employee asked about plumbing.

Adam

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

macmattom
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Postby macmattom » 15 Apr 2009 18:29

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Message to Steve @ S&S:- Steve, the spacers fit a dream now that I've put the washers in the right place [:o)], the whole thing just felt right going back together so a great big thanks from me [:D] - well happy.

I suppose I let myself get suckered in because a) the drawing mislead me [:(] and b) the washers UKC670 fitted so snuggly up into the recess it just seemed right [:(!], all the way until I tried to fit the spacers [:0].

I've taken a photo which I will post once I remember to bring the camera back home. Hopefully it will show the rebuild and I'll invite any comments.

Thanks very much again, that's one more step closer to the MoT[:p]



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Steve @ SandS
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Postby Steve @ SandS » 15 Apr 2009 18:35

Your welcome, glad to be of help

Steve @ S&S Preparations

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