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Transmission Gearbox Filling advice and Oil Type

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 27 Feb 2009 19:37

Will there really be any harm in using Castrol 10W40 engine oil in the gearbox? Seems to me it has superior spec to 'ATF' oil and similar viscosity - and I have a can full of the stuff, and I prefer 20W50 in the engine !

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Odd
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Postby Odd » 27 Feb 2009 20:10

Using engine oil in the gearbox is a (old!) Mini thing...
Not something you do to your valuable LT77 / R380!

danny
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Postby danny » 27 Feb 2009 22:24

Hi,
My car originally had normal EP oil in the gearbox, in the cold weather there was some serious balking until she warmed up, I changed the oil to a synthetic and that has really helped.
I recommend synthetic gearbox oil.

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Danny
1980 TR7 fhc Brooklands green
1967 Spitfire Mk3 Signal red
1953 Ford Anglia E494A Black
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Sondar
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Postby Sondar » 02 Mar 2009 04:37

Another vote for the full synthetic gearbox oil. Works very well in my 8.

Sondar

striker308
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Postby striker308 » 02 Mar 2009 17:44

I know this is geared for the 5spd, but would also recommend this for the 4spd?



Karl
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1982 VW Scirocco

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Postby Workshop Help » 02 Mar 2009 19:25

Well, actually, with the four speed it doesn't matter. It doesn't matter because the 4-speed derives all it's lubrication from the splash method, it has no pump. As such, good old staight 90wt or most any blend will do just fine unlike the oil pumper LT77 which is of a very different design evolution. Back in the 4-speed days for about 30 years, we would ocasionally drain and refill with 90wt, or 80-90wt, or 90-140wt, and it would shift and growl just the same. Once we tried adding a whollop of STP oil treatment like the U.S. Factory Racing team did on their Spitfires. No difference.

If you're still running a 4-speed, it will far outlast the average LT77. It doesn't need the constant oil changes to wash out the swarf in the sump to try and prevent the oil pump gears from being chewed up by the steel swarf being sucked into the intake pipe there in the sump. Whew! That is one long sentence. The bad side is the 4-speed as the wrong ratios in 1st and 2nd with direct drive 4th leaving the engine over rev at highway speeds, i.e. 3275RPM at 60mph versus our 2600RPM at 60mph with the 3.63:1 rear end ratio from the 4-speed car.

Mowog73
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Postby Mowog73 » 02 Mar 2009 19:58

My Spitfire has essentially the same 4 speed as the TR7 and I have been using fully synthetic 75W90 gear oil for the past 6 years. So far no problem.

Mark

<font size="1">1973 MGBGT Teal Blue
1976 TR7 Mimosa
1980 Spitfire 1500 Vermillion</font id="size1">

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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 02 Mar 2009 21:18

The 10W40 engine oil I will be using - is higher spec than ATF oil!

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Odd
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Postby Odd » 02 Mar 2009 21:33

Yes, probably - but we had just agreed on the non-suitability of ATF for this application. Hadn't we? [:)]

It's modern syntethic synchromesh transmission oil the 5-speed needs...

Urchin
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Postby Urchin » 02 Mar 2009 22:47

Here in the northern climes of the US, the TR-7 5-speeds had problems with 80/90w hypoid because of the effects of cold weather driving on the oil pump gears. So ATF became the recommended cure.

In my '80 Spider with 108,000 miles, second will grind slightly when cold [fall or winter driving] and then smooth out as the transmission warms up.

In Land Rover circles, the same issues arose when that transmission appeared in the Defender 90's and early Discoverys. The recommended fixes were the same.

Jeff



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papker
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Postby papker » 03 Jun 2009 18:35

A quick, silly question that I hope can save me a little time:

I found the drain plug, where.....where do I...uh....put the fluid in?

help appreciated as always.
rp

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Postby Workshop Help » 03 Jun 2009 18:48

Here's a little hint to aid your domestic tranquility. Drain your gearbox oil into your wifes favorite casserole dish. Show her your industrious deed. In the years to come, remember the piquant aftertaste and bittersweet aroma from when you were licking it clean.

TR7Aaron
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Postby TR7Aaron » 03 Jun 2009 18:51

Wives also like it when their husbands wash engine parts in the dishwasher. The oily film does disappear after 30 or 40 washings...[:D][:D]

Aaron
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saabfast
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Postby saabfast » 03 Jun 2009 19:39

Papker, the filler/level plug is about halfway up the rear section of the gearbox on the exhaust side of a '7 (nearside UK/offside US). It is hidden by the exhaust running along side, bl&&dy difficult to get a socket on and difficult to get started back with two fingers up the gap. Oh, and you need a plastic filler bottle with a flexi tube held somehow above the filler hole which then tends to drip on your head. If it is jacked up one side you then let it down so that the oil can flow out over the floor to the correct level, then jack it up again to fiddle the plug back in. Of course, if you have a 4 post lift it is a little easier!

Alan
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Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 03 Jun 2009 20:20

Easy to fill with a suitable length of clear plastic hose one has lying around extra from bleeding brakes or windshield washers and plug it onto your oil can spout. Stick the hose into fill hole from below and pump away. Your thumb might get tired after a bit other than that easy to do with usual bits found around the garage. Also very tidy.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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