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Rattling Windows

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gairo1
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Rattling Windows

Postby gairo1 » 03 May 2008 12:39

G'day All,

My DHC Grinnall has a annoying issue and that is a slight rattle from the side windows when the hood is down.

As you can just see, the qtr frames are a little worn.Is it just a metter of replacing the felt?

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Is there a DIY fix for this bearing in mind TR parts are not too common here?

Otherwise, I love it!

Cheers, Jerry

stevie_a
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Postby stevie_a » 03 May 2008 13:32

<font color="purple"><b>When my hood is down my windows are also down so I would never get such a noise

I see a lot of soft top cars (especially moderns) that drive with the hood down and the windows up WHY?

Would this just not cause the wind buffing to increase due to channelling the air round to the open rear????</b></font id="purple">

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

Rayjones
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Postby Rayjones » 03 May 2008 13:52

Should be just a case of replacing the felts, one of the first jobs I did on mine, the windows rattled with the hood up or down.

I can't say about other convertibles, not having driven many, but I definately find my seven is less draughty with the side windows down while open top motoring

Ray

1980 UK BRG 2L DHC

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 03 May 2008 14:22

Jerry, Greg Tunstall Mechanical, at Cleveland, Phone 07 3821 0622
supplied me the stuff you require, ex stock. I believe its called
bailey channel, from memory. You will probably also need the sealing
rubber on the outside top of the door, & new clips to retain it.

He has also supplied just about everything I have needed for 4 TR7s,
& an 8, in the last 8 years.

There are another couple of people in Brisbane who can supply most
of what you will need, but these things are not cheep in Oz, once
the freight factor is added on.

You should join the Triumph Sports Owners Assoc, QLD. President, &
Membership Secretary is Steven Phelan, Ph 07 3356 1727, you will
find them a great help, & the monthly mag lists a number of Triumph
speciliasts in south east Queensland. We are really well catered for
here, with very good people, who really know their stuff.

If you want more info, send me an E mail, with your phone number.
Incidentally, I & probably a few others would love to see a real
Grinnall, in the flesh.

Hasbeen

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 03 May 2008 15:12

Jerry,

Some times the felt just works it way out and falls to the bottom of the door. I lost mine.

My drivers side window would rattle and come out of the track, so I took of the door card and found the rear track laying on the bottom of the door. I removed the holding bracket, just one screw, and saw that the tack welds holding the bracket/track together had broken loose.

I drilled out holes in the bracket and the track where the tack welds had been and used pop-rivets to repair the unit. I could not find the felt, so I made a new one. This gets tricky, so I will try to make is simple.

I had some 1" wide sticky back smooth velcro, so I cut a piece that would fit in the bottom of the "U" track and worked that the whole length of the track. Then I took another length of smooth velcro and laid that into one side of the "U" track and then folded it back over the metal edge of the track. That left only one side of the "U" track as bare metal. I could tell that just laying in another velcro edge wouldn't hold the window in place, so I used some sticky back foam insulation material about 3/16" thick and 1/2' wide and laid that into the inside of the of the "U" track.

I then rolled the window all the way up, laid the top of the track into the the opening at the bottom of the window and remounted the track with the single screw, getting it as close to the original position as possible. Now there are four guides in which the window rollers ride. I used my little finger to work grease into those guides and then rolled the window down, and greased the other ends of the guides. I worked the window up and down several times and checked the guides again, add more grease as needed. Lastly, I worked a very small amount of oil into the new "Felt" I had made just enough to have the window slide easily in the track.

I put the door cards back on and test the window again. I noticed the next day that about 80% of the rattles in my car had gone away.

Since you are working on the windows anyway, if you want to fix the problem of water dripping in right at the edge of the top and the window frame where the window meets, I have an answer for that. After driving to work in the rain I had noticed a puddle of water on the passenger side floor mat. When I got home that night I inspected the doors and found that a PO had put a big wad of black goop on the side window frame right where in intersected the top. Well that wasn't very pretty!

I went to Home Depot and bought some sticky back insulation about 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. When you open th door you will notice that the side window frame has an edge that sticks up about 1/2" and in the inside of that edge is a perpendicular face about 3/4" wide. Lightly sand that face. Being careful not to stretch the insulation, run a length of insulation the whole length of the frame from the rubber window stop to the edge of the door where the frame goes into the door. Press the insulation down so that it makes good contact. That should keep the water from working it way into the car and I noticed that it will greatly reduce wind noise at 70 mph with the top and windows up.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay
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Rich in Vancouver
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Postby Rich in Vancouver » 03 May 2008 16:36

Just get a louder exhaust.
I couldn't tell if my windows fell out, the car is so loud!

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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gairo1
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Postby gairo1 » 03 May 2008 20:17

Wow.. Thanks for the replies, fantastic.

I never reolised that driving with the windows down was better than up. I have never done it thinking that with them up, one was better protected.

Hasbeen, I will join the local group, I thought there maybe one but had not got round to finding out. I know Cleveland well so thats a good head up, thanks.

No problem seeing the car, I'm traveling at the mo but will let you know when I'm back.

JCLAY.. I'm going to print off your message and study in detail!

Cheers, Jerry

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 04 May 2008 03:05

The felts are held in place by friction fit at least in the rear. The rear one usually falls out. As the felt gets worn over the years the window sits in there loosely. I've replaced mine and glued them in with rubber weatherseal glue (it's like a black contact cement.) Your rear window guide on the door may need replacing as well. My windows are now sit in the channel nice and firm and no way can they rattle at any setting.

I've also replaced the outer rubber seal on the door and the door card (which was warped at the curve by the lock knob. Yours look OK but if they are worn or hard mat contribute to a rattle.

If you don't put on the hood cover with it down it will be sucked out onto the trunk unless you have your windows up.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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john mc nulty
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Postby john mc nulty » 04 May 2008 13:53

Hi Jerry you can try here they have what you need www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au also rare spares

Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 04 May 2008 20:55

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver</i>

Just get a louder exhaust.
I couldn't tell if my windows fell out, the car is so loud!

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U
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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes! I have 2 chambered straight through mufflers and resonator tips. With that and the new engine, I don't hear half the noises that were there before.[;)] Downside is it's hard to enjoy my Led Zeppilin tapes[:(]

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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