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Waxoyl

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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Brianc
Rust Hunter
Posts: 203
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Waxoyl

Postby Brianc » 09 Jan 2016 11:19

Any tips on doing a full waxoyl application on my tr7. - i know there are lots of box sections but how easy are they to get into.

Just wanna protect my 7

Brian

FI Spyder
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby FI Spyder » 09 Jan 2016 15:20

Probably the the most important one are the sills. I had the seats/carpet out already when I did mine. I used not the Waxoil brand which I've never seen over here N/A but another that said it was "wax based" which I imagine is the same thing. It is thinned with turpentine. I bought the cheaper solvent (not the low VOC type) and it smells to high heaven for days while it evaporates. I haven't seen the low VOC lately, just the enviromentally friendly what ever that means. I applied it with an engine cleaner wand with compressed air which gives a good mist. I taped off the big holes on the inside except for one being used and sprayed it in then taped it off and repeated in another till I did that in all. With all the inside ones taped off I sprayed up through the bottom holes so the spray was directed upwards to get at the upper seams in the sill. The second and equally important area is the inner and outer front fender seams. When I had the front bumper off (I'm not sure it has to be taken off for this, it's just when I did it, I sprayed in through the front "hole" and you could see the spray coming out of the holes at bottom of sill behind the front wheel well. Third area would be the crevasses by the rear sills accessible from the trunk. When I had the gas tank out for sealing I sprayed the area above the tank as there are lots nooks and crannies there (even though it looked like new) with an aerosol can of the same stuff as it gives better control (smaller spray area). I also used the aerosol in my Tercel the other day as I didn't have the carpets out (just the seats) and needed the same control. Also it doesn't smell as much and good for smaller areas. I sprayed enough to that it could migrate with time and heat but not so much it would drip out.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

Sd1tr7
Rust Hunter
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Location: Derbyshire

Re: Waxoyl

Postby Sd1tr7 » 09 Jan 2016 22:18

hi :D
I all ways use waxoil.
I heat it up on gas ring till its liquid then spray it in every hole I can find.
I also drill holes in othere areas with no access and put a grommet in after.
repeat the process as much as you can.
I will be doing this on my tr7 after I have done all the othere work on the car.
sd1tr7 :D

sonscar
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby sonscar » 10 Jan 2016 17:23

Having used Waxoyl for years with poor results I now use Dinitrol products.In the UK I find Waxoyl too thick and even when thinned I found penetration poor(could also be due to waiting for winter to remind you to rustproof).Dinitrol has many products for different uses and the cavity wax really penetrates and seems to work.Buy a proper application tool,it may seem expensive but how much bodywork does £200 buy?Just my experience,Steve.

Brianc
Rust Hunter
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Joined: 15 Nov 2015 20:59

Re: Waxoyl

Postby Brianc » 10 Jan 2016 20:05

Thanks steve

I have looked at dinitrol and wondered. -when you sat a tool, is there a dinitrol specific tool

Thanks

Brian

birminghamtr7
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby birminghamtr7 » 11 Jan 2016 11:37

i can endorse dinatrol seems a better product, nicer to apply.
if you factor in the earth's rotation, we are all speeding

sonscar
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Location: United Kingdom

Re: Waxoyl

Postby sonscar » 11 Jan 2016 11:58

You really need a compressor and a gun which fits on top of the 1 litre cartridges that has a flexible tube for reaching into cavities.Search for Rustbuster for ideas,other antirust sites are available.There are some good tips,or you could pay for it doing.Good rustproofing,Steve.

Ianftr8
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby Ianftr8 » 12 Jan 2016 20:38

I like this stuff:
http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/ankor ... fluid.html

Ankor wax (say it carefully!) remains runny in the can even in the temperatures we are experiencing at the moment but skins up when exposed to air for a while. You do not have to run the risk of making jet engines from over heated cans (don't ask me how I know about that one :-) !
I buy it from my local motor factors for about £15.00 for five litres.

It seems to last longer than wax oyl - which I gave up on when the can I had rusted through the bottom.

Cheers
Ian
Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Greens USA car that never crossed the pond. Kept by the factory for it's first 14 months.
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 40 years
From near Chelmsford in Essex, UK

supercass
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby supercass » 13 Jan 2016 00:52

I like Ankor wax too but I have never managed to buy it at £15 for 5 litres!!! Who is your supplier? supercass

FI Spyder
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Re: Waxoyl

Postby FI Spyder » 13 Jan 2016 15:13

Ianftr8 wrote:It seems to last longer than wax oyl - which I gave up on when the can I had rusted through the bottom.


Waxoil is basically a wax (hence it's name) and not meant for areas that are subject to direct water spray when it can get worn away by friction along with what ever grit may get thrown up by the tires etc. but meant for areas like sills, in between inner and outer fender areas and even above gas tank area were water will get but won't have a jetting action on. Areas like under car or wheel wells should have undercoating applied (the paintable type if you want body colour there). Dinitrol seems to have good products (cooling etc) but you would be hard pressed to find it over here.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

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