Revving in neutral

[BenE]

Hi, I'm new to all of this so apologies if this is an obvious question or has already been answered. Has anyone encountered the revs refusing to go higher than about 3,000 when in neutral, even with the accelerator floored? I'm not sure if this is normal so any advice gratefully received (I know a lot of revving in neutral is not recommended but I need to know what is expected. I haven't been able to take it out on the road yet so don't have that data to compare). It's a fairly standard 1981 TR7 2l with electronic points. Thanks.

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Had the problem once. Double oil in crankcase.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[Workshop Help]

You need new spark plugs and ignition cables. You need a new fuel filter and fuel pump. You need a new air filter. You need to clean the sticky advance plate in the distributor. You need to think pure thoughts and practice clean living. You need to buy pizza for everyone here on the forums.

I have articles on all these items in The Workshop Manual.

Mildred Hargis

[busheytrader]

Hi Ben,

The only time that happened to me with the 2.0L engine it was due to faulty points but you've got electronic ignition.

It could be a number of things related to fuel and spark as per Mildred's comments.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006081

My personal favourite are the rubber vacuum hoses as per the diagram. They are prone to perishing and developing leaks and air bypasses the carbs into the intake as a result. Everything goes haywire as a result especially when warm as the cracks open up.

Hope this helps,

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

[BenE]

Hi all, thanks for the advice. Will check all of these and let you know how I get on. Cheers, Ben.

[claypole1360]

Pepperoni please, Calvin.



1978 TR7V8 FHC
1962 Herald Coupe 1200
1989 Peugeot 205 xs
2003 Peugeot 206 GTI
2009 VW Passat

[BenE]

Hi all, been away for a couple of weeks but hoping to look at these this weekend. Going to start with the electrics before I look at he fuel line. Am planning on doing them one by one and see what effect each has but it's such a faff getting the rotor arm off that I'm going to clean the sticky plates and replace the rotor at the same time. Anyway, will let you know how I get on.

[BenE]

So, checked oil level and it was a tiny bit high - just over the max mark so thought that was ok to leave. Cleaned the distibutor and replaced the rotor arm, no change. Replaced the cap and HT lead no change (had to do this all in one gorather than cap first then lead because the old lead had been rammed so far into the cap it was impossible to get out. No change. Replaced plug leads. No change. Replaced plugs after checking gap. No change. Fed up I turned my attention to another problem which is the black liquid coming out of the exhaust. I know this is due to a too rich a mixture, which has been comfirmed by sooty spark plugs, so I thought I'd have a go at adjusting the carbs. Did so and the running improved, exhaust was clear, idle speed was as it should be. I also found that I could rev up to over 3000. Does anyone know what the max should be, should I be able to get it higher or even redline it? So, backed the car out of the garage (only to try and free up a seized rear wheel which worked), let it run for a few minutes and revel in the glory then turned off and put the fresh air scoop and air filters back on. All ready for the MOT, or so I thought.

Turned the ignition and it wouldn't fire. Tried again, no fire. And again. Nothing. I thought perhaps with the air cleaners back on it was too rich but it should at least fire, right? After taking cleaners back off and still no joy, I tested the coil, sparks from cables etc, all ok. Had a look at the new dist cap - all ok, no cracking, streaks etc. But I did notice that the rotor arm has a black spot on the springy bit that sticks up. Should this be cleaned and does it point to a bigger problem? Not sure what to do I went in had a cup of tea and 10 minutes or so later turned the key and it fired after several turns and ran fine. But I've noticed that sometimes (not always) it does struggle to start immediately after turning off.

I haven't looked at the vacuum hoses yet so I'm going to look at the Workshop Manuals for how to detect issues and there may be some really obvious things here which I've missed but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Hasbeen]

I think your starting problem could be flooding. Your poor running & sooty plugs could also be flooding. This is often a problem when a new fuel pump is fitted, as many shops supply a pump which will give an excessive fuel pressure if not spaced off the cylinder block when installed.

When we stop the engine there is still residual pressure in the fuel lines. If this is excessive, or the needle & seat in the float bowls are not sealing, the fuel level can rise above the jet in the carb choke, & spill out. This will cause hard starting.

Remove your air filter, & run the engine. If any raw fuel appears, your carb/s is/are flooding.

Now stop the engine, & watch to see if any raw fuel appears welling from the jet. You will have to lift the piston to get a good look.

If liquid petrol appears at any stage, while running, or after shutting down, check your fuel pressure, & the needles & seats.

Hasbeen

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by BenE</i>


I haven't looked at the vacuum hoses yet so I'm going to look at the Workshop Manuals for how to detect issues and there may be some really obvious things here which I've missed but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

While your hard starting sounds like a rich mixture problem (with sooty plugs et all) I would not try to find the one vacuum hose that might cause a problem. If one is bad the rest can't be far behind. Replace them all. Don't forget the rubber in the carb mounts can split. This can be exacerbated by the weight of the air cleaner when it's on. On our club trip to California it took 3 hours to find this problem as we were lead down the garden path by the smell of unburnt gasoline and we were all thinking flooding/rich.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT