Part I: Symptom, turn key just clicks, some times lights on dash go blank and car is dead. Without reading up on it I assumed a bad solenoid in stater so replaced with gear reduction stater (new starter, clean starter connections), no change. I pulled the connector to the starting solenoid at fuse panel, flush with electrical cleaner and problem went away for a couple years, then came back every year then every couple months. The last year cleaning the connector wouldn't make the problem go away.
Part II: Spraying the ignition switch with electrical cleaner made the problem go away. Second last time it didn't, I opened the bonnet, wiggled the wiring in the wiring block by battery and it started right up and was fine. I wrongly assumed the electrical cleaner just needed some time to work on the ignition switch contacts. Last Monday it started fine, first fire up since fall. After going to store it wouldn't. Lots of spraying of the ignition switch and still nothing car dead. Wiggled wires at connection block, tried again and it was fine.
Part II: Took the connection block apart and realised how it all worked. The brown wire clamp was a little loose, you could slide it up and down on the red cable about an eighth to quarter inch. There was no corrosion (green) to speak of but a little black on the wires. I measured resistance of clamp to wire as I slid it up and down and the slow digital display would vary from .3 ohm to 147 ohm (actual reading could be higher). I crimped the clamp tighter with the biggest pliers I had and while better there was a little motion still. I soldered it to the cable after cleaning red cable wires with electrical cleaner and using electrical flux, solder and a propane torch as I had to room to use it with the battery out. Not prettiest job I've ever done but it seemed solid and the cover block hid it all. Works fine now.
You can see the red cable goes direct from battery to starter. The brown wires pick 12 V off it at the clamp and send it to various places. One of the brown wires comes from the alternator so if a loose clamp can't get 12 V from the battery cable it can get it from the alternator once (if) the car is running. That's why if the car won't start and everything seems dead you can push start it and everything is fine because the 12V is now coming from the alternator and not the battery cable.
I know I went at this back assward but that's how you often learn life's lessons although I think everything everything contributed. I think my starting problems are gone so long as the soldering job holds up. The only thing to double check is cleaning the wiring connector to the ignition switch although that would have been cleaned 8 years ago.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
