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Fuel filler question

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Dave Dyer
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Fuel filler question

Postby Dave Dyer » 01 Mar 2015 09:57

Hi Chaps,

A bit of a quick question, I'm about to fit my fuel filler (metal section and large rubber tube) the petrol tank is fitted to the car already, can I fit this or will the tank have to come out?

I really would be gutted if the answers are to take the tank out!

I've looked at it and I'm not sure if its possible or not?

Looking forward to your replies and help.
Thanks,
Dave

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 01 Mar 2015 10:09

I would think you can you do it through that access panel in the boot otherwise what is the point of the panel? When I did my tank I connected it to the tank before it went in.

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
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cokat
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Postby cokat » 01 Mar 2015 10:40

I have Done it with the tank allready in place. But it is a pain in the ass to get the rubber on the tank. Grease helped there.

Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 01 Mar 2015 12:27

I've done it too, can't remember how, but I do remember it wasn't easy.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

Dave Dyer
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Postby Dave Dyer » 01 Mar 2015 12:46

Thanks chaps,

After struggling back any forth (in the rain!) to the kitchen to get the rubber pipe nice and hot, one last attempt before I gave up, it went on. Great I thought, but now I can't fit it into position, its too long, it looks like I will have to drop the tank a bit to try and fit the filler neck through the bodyshell. Groan!

The grease also worked.

Dave

auto_cran
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Postby auto_cran » 01 Mar 2015 12:47

Hi Dave,

I've recently done it both ways. The rubber filler hose is much easier to install with the tank out, but with the tank in, I was able to do it through the access panel. It's a real PITA and stubby tools (and very small hands) are highly recommended.

Once the hose is tightened and you're ready to slide the metal pipe in, lube the pipe with oil - it will slide in easier.

Chris
'76 Java Green FHC – a continued work in progress

cokat
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Postby cokat » 01 Mar 2015 15:59

Yes, to get it in place after the rubber was on, it needed some muscles and swearing. But i've done it so anyone can.

cokat
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Postby cokat » 01 Mar 2015 16:01

I installed the rubber with the pipe together by the way

Dave Dyer
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Postby Dave Dyer » 01 Mar 2015 18:29

Thanks Chaps for the further help.

I couldn't lower the tank, I felt the mountings would snap they were that tight.

I fitted the whole thing, rubber and pipe. I had to bend the edge of the access panel in the boot and then tap it into place with a rubber mallet, until the filler 'popped' up into place. The tank made a bit of a 'ting' during the process, so I hope I haven't damaged the tank.

But thanks again for the advice, a job I wouldn't like to do again!

Dave

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 01 Mar 2015 21:25

It's a PITA, glad to here it wasn't just me. Agree it's some thing you only want to do once (per car) and will as I sealed my tank. I would suggest getting rid of those useless phillips head screws (which likely will be butchered getting the filler hose out and use some allen head screws.

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- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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Postby Triumph TR7V8 coupé » 03 Mar 2015 09:52

Hi,

I guess for me this was the most difficult thing to do during the whole restoration of the car, it took me hours and a lot of swearing but in the end I succeeded altough my hands were cut everywhere.

You can guess my enthousiasme when a year later I decided to install FI and I had to change the tank,
you would expect that second time it would go easier but it didn't...

J.

darrellw
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Postby darrellw » 03 Mar 2015 13:23

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

I would suggest getting rid of those useless phillips head screws (which likely will be butchered getting the filler hose out and use some allen head screws.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Well, since they are Pozidriv (like all of the cross-head screws on the Wedge), you may well butcher them if you use a phillips screw driver.

Every Wedge owner should get a set of Pozidriv screwdrivers.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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Postby Cobber » 03 Mar 2015 16:34

After all these years any remaining posidrive screws will most likely have been butchered to buggery by previous owners and alleged mechanics too ignorant to know the difference between posidrive and phillips head screws, so they'll most likely need replacing anyway, so while your at it, you may as well replace then with some nice stainless allen head screws and be done with it.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 03 Mar 2015 22:32

I've checked the screws on Yellow TCT and they're butchered. They don't have the pozidrive markings and sure look like phillips but hard to tell with them butchered like they are. I can see I'll be struggling with them when it comes time for them to come out.

When I was working repairing office equipment I got a phillips stubby screwdriver used for Sharp copiers that fit better than other phillips. Where other screwdrivers would tend to cam out this one would grab better. I think the Japanese phillips screws were designed to have less camming action than North American ones as well.



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