Still won't start *sigh*

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Ok, I'm a fairly practical person, but new to tinkering with engines beyond oil changes.

The TR7 won't start

1) New plugs and leads, gaps have been set and spark seems good.
2) New in-line fuel filter and fuel pump (couldn't get the old pump open to check condition so just replaced it).
3) Fuel has been drawn into the in-line filter so I assume the pump is working. Fuel looks clean.
4) Fires up for a fraction of a second with starter spray, and then dies.

Still won't start. What are the next steps?

It has sat for about 10 weeks since it last ran, and admittedly took a good bit of turning over before starting that time.

I assume next steps are to open up the SU carbs, and check the needles aren't blocked?

The float bowls don't seem to be weeping fuel so I shouldn't need to look there should I, or are they worth checking too?

Any advice appreciated.

Regards

Chris

PS - some of you may have seen my other thread where I was thinking of selling it. Frustrating as this problem is, all the tinkering has made me want to keep it [:)] for another month or two at least [;)]

[g4zur]

Hi Chris

I had the exactly the same problem. Sprayed wd40 into carbs and fired for a second, My problem was caused by blocked jets and the feed from the jet in the bottom of my float bowls, Where the jet screws in.
All caused by rust from petrol tank, Read an article I posted a few months ago, I kept changeing the fuel filter but had to change tank in the end, "Fuel" for thought Chris.

Regards Gareth.

G.P.Albrighton

[Ianftr8]

Morning Chris,

Is the battery fully charged? with a little voltage drop things can be a little weaker.

Try hooking it up to a running car on Jumper leads and see if that helps.

Cheers

Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Green
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

[scribe]

Cheers Gareth, I'll take a look.

Ian, it's a brand new battery that's kept fully charged (missed that off my list of points).

Cheers

[dursleyman]

These things are often something small so don't give up just yet and let someone else enjoy the car in the coming summer.

After it has been turning over for a while and not fired up the plugs should be wet with fuel, be worth checking if they are. If they are not then Gareth might be right and you have a blockage in the carbs. The float chambers should also be full. That would be my next step.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[Hasbeen]

These cars have a high voltage ignition supply while cranking, to help the things fire, but a normal voltage supply once running. Perhaps the latter is not working.

You would be better using an ether based diesel cold start spray, rather than WD 40, which is only a white spirits carrier. In Oz we have one called "Start Ya Bas**rd", which works quite well.

Hasbeen

[TR Tony]

You can take the tops off the float bowls to see if there are any rust particles in the bottom - if yes then this may be blocking the pipe to the bottom of the jet assembly, or the jet itself.

You don't mention if you have checked the timing - you have a good spark but might be worth static checking the timing. Are you using points or have you got electronic ignition?

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

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Thanks.

Re: Points or electronic - actually I actually have no idea, didn't ask when I bought it, nor have I looked [:I]

Is there a guide you can point me at for static checking of the timing?

Remember; I'm learning..... and quite willing to get my hands dirty. In fact you should see the state of them right now (ditched the gloves after they kept getting snagged in the bolts I was doing up). Not very fitting for my office job [:)]

[Hasbeen]

If you really have to keep your hands clean, get a box of surgical/hospital disposable gloves from a chemist.

They cost pennies stand up well, don't get caught, & are thin & tight enough to give good feel.

Hasbeen

[scribe]

I had a box of cheap ones from halfords, but aren't skin tight. Annoying things that rip easily.

I'm picking some proper ones up tonight

[FI Spyder]

I second Hasbeen's ether based starting fluid. If there's spark, it's going to start on that. Once it's turning over it's easier for it to continue running on regular gas unless the air/fuel ratio is really rich or lean in which case you have to turn to fuel situation.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[French horse dentist]

I would have thought that if it fires on gas it isn't electrical. I would say fuel or lack thereof.

Why did I buy this?

[FI Spyder]

Check the rubber motor mounts and make sure they haven't separated. On our trip to California the other TR7 won't start the morning after first layover at Lake Quinault. Took us all morning to try to start it till some one saw the intake manifold move. I hit my forehead with palm and said Zip tie it up and it started fine for the rest of the trip.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[dursleyman]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by French horse dentist</i>

I would have thought that if it fires on gas it isn't electrical. I would say fuel or lack thereof.
Why did I buy this?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Don't forget its a ballast ignition system. The ignition feed when the key is held in the "start" position is the full 12 volts but it changes over to the ballasted feed when the key is released to the normal "running" position. Could be a problem with the ballast side so it will fire but not run. Its the same system on lots of cars from this era, not just the TR7.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[HDRider]

You can bypass the ignition circuit by using a jumper wire from the battery to the coil to test the harness/switch.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA