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Rear brake line routing

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tr7dan
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby tr7dan » 14 Apr 2022 19:05

Ok, so I changed the steering bush. A bit snug to get in place but wasn't too difficult and didn't have to cut anything, so that's worked out ok.

Apart from the brake lines and steering bush is there anything else I should be doing in the engine bay now before I refit the lump ?

I think I might do the wiper assemblies as I have the front of the car raised up high so I can duck underneath and then stand up in the engine bay which gives me straight on access to do the wipers instead of having to lean over.

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busheytrader
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby busheytrader » 15 Apr 2022 07:51

Wiper assembly +1. The park switch isn’t in the most accessible place for adjustment.

FI Spyder
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby FI Spyder » 15 Apr 2022 15:31

On reassembly of wiper system, I found that they wouldn't turn off as the park switch wasn't in right position. I undid the motor mounts and that gave me access to the switch without removing the whole thing. I had a 50/50 chance of moving it the right way. untighten switch mount screw, moved it a bit, tighten, reassemble what little had to be reassembled and it worked.

Before putting the motor back in, I would clean everything in the engine bay, remove and paint anything that needs to be painted. I always hate doing half a job. I always show the car with hood up because not many people have seen a FI slant four because it wasn't available here (Canada) so a clean engine bay is a must.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

tr7dan
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby tr7dan » 15 Apr 2022 21:17

FI Spyder wrote:On reassembly of wiper system, I found that they wouldn't turn off as the park switch wasn't in right position. I undid the motor mounts and that gave me access to the switch without removing the whole thing. I had a 50/50 chance of moving it the right way. untighten switch mount screw, moved it a bit, tighten, reassemble what little had to be reassembled and it worked.

Before putting the motor back in, I would clean everything in the engine bay, remove and paint anything that needs to be painted. I always hate doing half a job. I always show the car with hood up because not many people have seen a FI slant four because it wasn't available here (Canada) so a clean engine bay is a must.


Cheers, yep, I did this already. Very little rust tbh but of course those dreaded suspension turret braces cause havoc. I've spent a lot of time prepping the engine bay and fixing the problem areas so it's all ready for the engine now apart from any ancillaries that need to go in first.

Rusty suspension turret...
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Rusty metal cut out and new metal welded in.....
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The finished job - and same on the other side.....
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Image

dursleyman
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby dursleyman » 16 Apr 2022 15:17

That looks like a good result.

Now is the time to run the wiring loom through as well, easier to "fish" the cables when there are no obstructions. I use a piece of welding rod with the end bent in a loop so its doesn't catch.
Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC & 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Beans
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby Beans » 16 Apr 2022 20:56

That looks like a proper job 8)
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1976 TR7 FHC (currently being restored ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng)

http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/

Rich K
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby Rich K » 17 Apr 2022 09:49

Hi tr7dan,

Looks like we are at a similar stage with the engine bay, although I am yet to do any work on the engine.

Cheers,
Rich.
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1980 TR7 drophead now repainted and started refitting plus V8 upgrade
1977 TR7 fixedhead awaiting restoration
1981 TR7 drophead bodywork and mechanicals now done, completing trim currently.
Ford Ranger Wildtrak
Jaguar XKR Supercharged

busheytrader
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby busheytrader » 18 Apr 2022 12:53

dursleyman wrote:That looks like a good result.

Now is the time to run the wiring loom through as well, easier to "fish" the cables when there are no obstructions. I use a piece of welding rod with the end bent in a loop so its doesn't catch.


Hi Russ, I’ve been meaning to re-route part of the engine bay loom relating to the V8. What did you use to protect the cables from bouncing around above the wheel arches? The only original loom protection I’ve seen on my car is insulation tape.

dursleyman
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby dursleyman » 18 Apr 2022 17:13

bushytrader

I didn't add any extra protection.
Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC & 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Beans
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby Beans » 18 Apr 2022 18:50

busheytrader wrote: ... What did you use to protect the cables from bouncing around above the wheel arches ...

No extra protection fitted from the factory. From own experience (after disassembling a fair number of TR7's over the years),
I found that the loom has a tendency to wedge itself between the inner and outer wing, preventing it from bouncing around!
Image
1976 TR7 FHC (currently being restored ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng)

http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/

tr7dan
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby tr7dan » 20 Apr 2022 08:45

Rich K wrote:Hi tr7dan,

Looks like we are at a similar stage with the engine bay, although I am yet to do any work on the engine.

Cheers,
Rich.


Looks great Rich - Midas Gold ?

Rich K
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby Rich K » 20 Apr 2022 08:50

Hi, thanks and yes it is Midas gold. Nice colour and suits the car in my opinion.
1980 TR7 drophead now repainted and started refitting plus V8 upgrade
1977 TR7 fixedhead awaiting restoration
1981 TR7 drophead bodywork and mechanicals now done, completing trim currently.
Ford Ranger Wildtrak
Jaguar XKR Supercharged

busheytrader
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Re: Rear brake line routing

Postby busheytrader » 20 Apr 2022 11:58

Rich K wrote:Hi, thanks and yes it is Midas gold. Nice colour and suits the car in my opinion.

+1 :D

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