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Strange squeak

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dmachura
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Strange squeak

Postby dmachura » 13 Sep 2020 21:59

Hi All

I am at a loss to determine cause of a strange squeak I am getting when I depress the clutch or when I am under slight load. Squeak is not there under idle.
Unfortunately site won't let me attach mp3 files. If it is coming from the valve train what in there would cause a squeak?

Cobber
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby Cobber » 14 Sep 2020 01:48

Clutch spigot bearing is a likely culprit, although a missing gearbox mounting spacer can cause some strange symptoms.
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

'80 Triumph TR7.
'97 Ford Falcon Longreach 'S' ute,
'98 MG-F.
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign S3.

saabfast
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby saabfast » 14 Sep 2020 09:00

.....or a dry clutch thrust bearing.
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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dmachura
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby dmachura » 14 Sep 2020 15:40

Thanks guys I never thought about the clutch I did have a cooling line rupture at the back of the engine and spray everything back there. Then it sat for 6 months till I redid the head gasket. Is there way to spray some WD40 on the bearing without removing clutch?

saabfast
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby saabfast » 14 Sep 2020 22:29

Not easily. If you removed the slave cylinder (take care not to remove the actuating rod from the clutch fork) you may be able to squirt with a tube discharge onto the release bearing but it would not be easy and you need to make sure it does not contaminate the clutch. There is no way to reach the nose bearing without dropping the 'box. TBH that would be the best bet to check the condition of the parts if they have been soaked with water.
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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Cobber
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby Cobber » 15 Sep 2020 07:09

If and, lets face it, when you end up pulling the gearbox, order a new clutch fork before you do so.
The clutch forks on these things are prone to failure and there is no point putting the old one back in...... in fact If I was to go to the trouble of pulling the gearbox, I'd put a new clutch and bearings in
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

'80 Triumph TR7.
'97 Ford Falcon Longreach 'S' ute,
'98 MG-F.
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign S3.

FI Spyder
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby FI Spyder » 15 Sep 2020 14:26

When I pulled my transmission (out the bottom, you need 21" clearance) the clutch fork had a little wear on it. When looking at the rod that activates it, there is an indent in the face with a rather sharp ridge, perfect for gouging out the fork material and punching through. I rounded off the sharp ridge, put on a little grease and put it back in as the fork wear wasn't too bad.
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

dmachura
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby dmachura » 15 Sep 2020 16:12

FI Spyder wrote:When I pulled my transmission (out the bottom, you need 21" clearance) the clutch fork had a little wear on it. When looking at the rod that activates it, there is an indent in the face with a rather sharp ridge, perfect for gouging out the fork material and punching through. I rounded off the sharp ridge, put on a little grease and put it back in as the fork wear wasn't too bad.

Is it easier it drop the tranny or pull it out with the engine? I've only pulled it out the top.

Rich K
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby Rich K » 15 Sep 2020 19:23

If you decide to drop the gearbox out from underneath, be prepared as it is a considerably heavy unit. Last time I dropped the gearbox I used two trolley jacks, one either end.
Rich.
1980 TR7 drophead now repainted and started refitting plus V8 upgrade
1977 TR7 fixedhead awaiting restoration
1981 TR7 drophead bodywork now done, mechanicals next then final paint
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FI Spyder
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby FI Spyder » 17 Sep 2020 14:56

I used an ATV scissor stand (on sale for $40 Cdn), bolted it to the transmission with a piece of scrap metal I made up. I used a set of jackstands that had hydraulic jack integral I bought for $36 Cdn each (from Costco) to get my 21" clearance. The ATV scissor stand was mounted to a T shaped melamine board (to fit between the narrow area at the front) with small castors at bottom. This allowed me to move the transmission to the rear and lower it incrementally as required for the transmission to clear the car/pull the input shaft from the engine. The top of the bell housing just cleared a raised V section in the frame towards the rear half of the car. I had bought the jack stands and ATV on sale ahead a time as I knew I had a clutch replacement coming up (shuddering at anything above idle on take off). This eliminated taking off hood, disconnecting all the engine stuff (FI) and worrying about garage clearance of the engine hoist. The hardest part of the whole process was getting the top bolts out of the bell housing as there isn't much room between them and firewall. Local Costco n longer carries the jackstand combos (although you could source them elsewhere and they are handy when/if you need more clearance for working on anything else under the car.
'
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 2013 Volt - Yellow TCT

saabfast
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby saabfast » 17 Sep 2020 20:06

Rich K wrote:If you decide to drop the gearbox out from underneath, be prepared as it is a considerably heavy unit. Last time I dropped the gearbox I used two trolley jacks, one either end.
Rich.


I used two trolley jacks too. The car was up on jackstands sitting on top of large chunks of rail sleeper to get it high enough. I made a small 'tray' from timber to fit the bottom of the 'box and had that on one of the jacks. When you take off the gearbox crossmember and lower the jack the engine tips back allowing access to most of the bellhousing bolts. Remember to carefully remove the slave cylinder first, when you put it all back the rod goes through the backplate hole. When the bellhousing bolts were out (and propshaft removed) the 'box was pulled back on the jacks to release it and then pushed off the jacks when at their lowest and dragged out. As said, it is VERY heavy. Putting it back was pretty much the reverse, dragging it under and then rolling onto the jacks to be lifted into position at an angle to match the engine and push it in. Took me the best part of a weekend to change the clutch on my own.
Check if you need any seals and bushes before doing it do you are ready when it is out.
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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Hasbeen
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Re: Strange squeak

Postby Hasbeen » 18 Sep 2020 03:13

Yes they are a heavy gearbox.

The first time I dropped a 7 gearbox, about 18 years ago, I ran the car up on ramps, slid under the thing & dropped the box. I lowered it onto my chest as I had done in the past, with many boxes.

I then found I was not strong enough, in that position to lift it off my chest. Alone, it took me about 10 minutes to get out from under the thing.

My son recently fitted a T5 Ford box to the back of the 4.6L RV8, in the 8. He had a hoist & a strong mate to help handle the box which is just as well. They had the box in & out 6 times getting the clutch fork pivot adjusted to the right height for the combination of hydraulic gear & pressure plate.

It is still not the easiest car to drive in traffic, but much better than with an auto which changes gear when it thinks is right, rather than when wanted.

Hasbeen

PS. By not easy, I mean to drive unobtrusively in traffic. It is very likely to break traction in first or second if even a small excessive bit of throttle is applied. That, with it's throaty burble it is very likely to attract the undesirable attention of the boys in blue.

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