Page 1 of 1

TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 06:45
by tzorzo
HELP.
I have an issue with my clutch.
Installed motor and gearbox into my car.
had an issue with the clutch engaging removed the slave cylinder and pulled the rod attached to the clutch fork too far forward now it won't go back.
Any ideas on a fix without removing the gearbox?

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 12:42
by saabfast
Ouch, not good!
From memory the end of the rod fits into plastic clip on the fork. There were a few threads (on the old forum I think) where people with this problem had managed to get it reattached by using loops of string to pull the fork IIRC. If the plastic clip (which can be brittle) has broken it will be a bit of a challenge.

EDIT Found this old thread with a search which shows one way to overcome the problem:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13776&p=103649&hilit=slave+rod#p103649

also, but not too descriptive:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11546&p=83197&hilit=slave+rod#p83197

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 19:14
by tzorzo
Allan, thanks for reply but my is is that the for has come all the way forward in the bell housing and now wont go back to correct position.
I am assuming that the bearing has come out of the 2 lugs on the fork.

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 09 Jan 2019 21:53
by saabfast
That's worse! :cry: Sorry, I do not know of any way to get the release bearing back onto the slipper blocks without dropping the 'box. Good luck.

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 10 Jan 2019 03:00
by busheytrader
Your initial problem with the clutch.........

Did the pedal go down to the floor with little resistance, then come back up and stay stuck solid? That's what happened to mine when the fulcrum pin finally wore a hole through the clutch fork. IIRC, the engine and gearbox have to be separated to replace these.

The latest replacements have a strap welded behind the vulnerable pin recess. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LBU1234

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 10 Jan 2019 15:39
by FI Spyder
If you never had the trans off before and have to pull it now would be a good time to chck for clutch wear, flywheel marks, sheen (radially clean any rust off with emery cloth), rear engine seal for leaks (replace with new). I pulled the box out the bottom as I figured it was easier than pulling engine out the top but your situation may vary. I hate doing it as it's a lot of work (if you don't have to do anything else like general clean up.

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 10 Jan 2019 20:56
by saabfast
When my clutch jammed it was one of the torque springs in the friction plate had broken and jammed between the pressure plate and friction plate. Luckily is was close to home so managed to get back in the gear it was stuck in.

Assuming yours is a 5 speed car you will need to get the pretty high to get the box out from underneath (as I did too) as the bellhousing is pretty big and the box is VERY heavy. (Assume the 4 speed has a similar size bellhousing but its a lightweight). I used two trolley jacks and made up a timber 'tray' to fit the bottom which a jack went under.

While it is out also check the shift extension bushes, shift rod oil seal, rear oil seal and maybe the pump, and check the crossmember mount has not turned to jelly.

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 11 Jan 2019 11:14
by Beans
tzorzo wrote:Allan, thanks for reply but my is is that the for has come all the way forward in the bell housing and now wont go back to correct position.
I am assuming that the bearing has come out of the 2 lugs on the fork.

That sounds like a gearbox out job to me if the fork doesn't go back in its position :shock:

Re: TR7 Clutch Issue

Posted: 11 Jan 2019 17:17
by dursleyman
If its just the rod come out of its clip on the fork there is a way I have seen to put it back with having to remove the grearbox. Pretty sure it was on here but I saved a copy just in case so this might be worth a try?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz1MK ... HFtZjVzZjg