You can set up both the SUs and ZS carbs with a tool that measures vacuum, but the surgical tube or the mechanics stethoscope method works just as well unless you are deaf.
I've done a resto-mod on my engine with upgraded pistons (UK version), re-profiled the cam, went to an improved electronic ignition system (and coil), header, port and polished and skimmed the head, and dual 40DOCE Weber side draft carbs. I'll find out how this all works when I get it installed in my build car. What I've done should increase the HP output by 20~25%.
Your biggest problem is the 4-speed transmission and the differential gear ratio. All I've read and found from my club members is that the early TR7s are "lumpy." To remedy this, Leyland added the 5-speed transmission and changed the gear ratios 3-times. The only other factory improvement was to change to the fuel injection system of the 1980~81 cars.
My auto rabbi suggested I do what he has done; buy a TR8 (he has several). I'd rather have fun squeaking out all of the HP I can get from the standard 4-cylender engine of a short of the Dolomite Sprint head.
Luckily, parts are available. If you want a classic that will be worth millions in 40-years; you shouldn't have bought a TR7. I bought two barn-finds ($400 each); one for the body and one for the engine/transmission. I'm doing this for fun, not for investment.
Hang in there. buy the manuals, look to this forum and try the Triumph Experience forum. Also try the Triumph Wedge Owner Association.
Good luck and safe driving.
Larry
