Gasket sealant around the oil pump

[UKPhilTR7]

I am going to replace the O Ring on my oil pump, to try and address an oil leak around that area. I was thinking of putting gasket sealant on the base of the pump to the block, to help ensure that everything is sealed. Has anyone done this or do you find the O ring is enough?

[saabfast]

I only used the 'O' ring....but then there is a slight drip from the pump area. Difficult to tell if its from the pump with all the other drips!!

[FI Spyder]

There are 3 oil pump rings to be replaced. I just replaced the rings, fine after 9 years. I lubricate them (as I do with all rubber seals) with red rubber grease, the type you sometimes get in a little packet with brake/clutch rebuild kits, It can be bought separately.

[dursleyman]

I am going to replace the O Ring on my oil pump, to try and address an oil leak around that area. I was thinking of putting gasket sealant on the base of the pump to the block, to help ensure that everything is sealed. Has anyone done this or do you find the O ring is enough?

You shouldn't need any sealant, a new "O" ring will do the job nicely. But remember its not just that one ring, there are a couple of others in the pump you should do at the same time which will also have hardened. Robsport sell their oil leak kit which has five O" rings for about £5.50 so not expensive and a job well done.

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for the comments. I was going to add a bit of grease on the o rings. I have seen the one ring main and the small one but can only see two, not three.

[bonnietiler]

I'm an old...very old..biker and still ride round on a T140 Bonneville from time to time.
But...back in the day...and Bonneville's leak... the product of choice was "Yamabond" elastanomer

They have stopped making it now and passed the formula to another company and it is marketed as "Threebond"
It is a recommended product, not the cheapest but still the best.
Cheers
Bonnietiler

[FI Spyder]

Thanks for the comments. I was going to add a bit of grease on the o rings. I have seen the one ring main and the small one but can only see two, not three.

I wouldn't use petroleum grease but the special red rubber grease (red as in colour not (just) for red rubber. This diagram shows three O rings (been 9 years now) so can't remember details.

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tr/full.aspx?Page=49

[dursleyman]

There is also one in the relief valve that leaks, have a look at the Rimmers diagram here:-

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006034

The Robsport kit also includes the one for the filter bowl.

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for that. I saw rimmers picture but the kit I have from Robsport had 5 o rings in it, which was confuaing me. Now I know there is one for the filter bowl, which I do not have, it all falls into place.cheers for that.

[dmtrmp6]

Phil, no need for sealants and O-rings, indeed if you use gasket sealant you may prevent the o-ring from compressing/sealing properly. The O-rings are designed to compress slightly when new and therefor will fill the space with a degree of positive interference. Clean surfaces and use a small amount of rubber lube as already advised.

From my recall, the 5 O-rings in the Robsport kit are three for the oil pump:- 1) pump to block face, 2) pump intermediate - between two halves and small o-ring for the relief valve end cup. The other two o-rings provided are for the oil bypass cover (where oil pressure sensor is fitted) large ring between the cover and block, small o-ring under the cover mounting bolt. The oil filter seals are larger again and normally supplied with the filter.

Be careful when removing the pressure relief cap, it is held in with a split pin, but may be stiff to remove (o-ring friction) can usually shake it out using the weight of the relief valve assembly. Use a new split pin on reassembly. Clean everything well when disassembly, be careful, the two screws that hold pump halves together may be tight from previous owner, do not over tighten, as you may damage the screw head. Also ensure the o-ring adjacent to the pump rotor is placed correctly, if it skews it can jam the rotor. This is where a little rubber grease helps to hold in place. Don't stretch the relief spring or fit upgraded item, it is not necessary and can lead to other problems.

Don't forget to refit and engage the oil pump drive/quill shaft with the distributor correctly. You should prime the pump on assembly, either by turning over the motor without spark plugs after reassembly, filling the pump with oil, or may also use petroleum jelly/Vaseline to fill the space around the rotor/gears.

Overall this is a relatively easy task and should result in no more leaks. Good luck. DM

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I think this will be a job for when i do the sump plug too. One thing i had not thought about or remember doing before is this, i will have to read up on this. “Don't forget to refit and engage the oil pump drive/quill shaft with the distributor correctly”.

[dmtrmp6]

Phil,

The quill shaft is not a difficult item, simply needs a little attention as it can a) come out with the pump, b) fall out (and potentially get lost if not noticed) or c) remain in the distributor/engine block as pump is removed. Check the shaft for wear on the drive faces, not usually a problem unless very high mileage, but replacement is cheap from the usual suppliers. On installation if engine still in car suggest you place the shaft into the pump and offer it up as an assembly - remember it is hex sided and needs to slip into bottom of the distributor shaft - can be aligned by slight rotation of the pump/shaft assembly to engage and then secure the pump to block. Rgds, DM

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for that. When I get back to my TR in Australia, it will be one of the jobs that I will be looking at. With this information fresh in my head, hopefully it will go all ok.