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replacing rear wheel bearing

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motomadness1947
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replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby motomadness1947 » 13 Feb 2016 18:18

I am installing new rear wheel bearing on my TR7. The old tapered rollers were in two pieces so after I removed the axel I then removed the outer race. The new bearing kit I got from victoria british has a one piece tapered roller bearing . In this case there is no way to tap the outer race into place. Question Is: is this the proper bearing? do I just have the bearing pressed on the axel then draw it in the carrier with the four bolts through the backing plate thereby installing the outer race? . thanks Bruce
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john 215
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby john 215 » 13 Feb 2016 19:58

Hi Bruce,

I assume you have 5 speed axle, the 4 speed are ball bearing and changing them a different procedure.

Your five speed bearing is held onto the halfshaft by a retaining clip ( ULC 2362 ) and a collar ( ULC 2350 ) . Working towards the flange you will first come across the clip, once that is removed you then have remove the retaining collar, IT WILL BE TIGHT, methods such as drilling and cracking with a chisel, grinding or pressing off will work.

The bearing is then in position where it can be pressed off once again it WILL BE TIGHT and by far the best is by a hydraulic press.

The outer race will need to removed from the axle, over the years I had these literally pull out with my finger or had to use a puller to get them out of the casing, and everything in between !

Dont forget the seal in the casing ( GHS 186 ) as should be replaced at this point, as well as the outer seal ( GHS 187 )


Image


Got a few spare half shaft in the garage can take few picture tomorrow if that helps,


Cheers John
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LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME !

OLD SCHOOL MECHANIC - STUPID ENOUGH TO TAKE A CAR APART.. BUT ... SKILLED ENOUGH TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN !

1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX

1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

saabfast
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby saabfast » 13 Feb 2016 22:42

Hi John,
I have a set of rear axle bearings sitting beside me waiting for someone to fit. Intrigued by the retaining clip ULC2362 which is not in the kit. This is not shown in the Triumph manual I have, is it reusable, some sort of circlip? Your post is also a reminder to get the outer seal, I assume the one in the kit is the inner seal.
The manual notes that the collar needs at least 3 tons pressure to fit, or it is too loose. It also says it should be fitted with Loctite 602 on the halfshaft, presumably something like threadlock, but this does not seem to be available now. Is there a modern recommendation?

Edit: Have found Loctite 603 bearing retaining compound which is presumably the modern equivalent.
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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Cobber
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby Cobber » 14 Feb 2016 02:35

I'd use Loctite 609, it is for both slip & pressfit assembly and is suitable for parts that may need future disassembly.
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

'80 Triumph TR7.
'97 Ford Falcon Longreach 'S' ute,
'98 MG-F.
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign S3.

saabfast
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby saabfast » 14 Feb 2016 08:46

Thanks, looking at the Henkel Loctite website either 609 or 641 seem most appropriate now. Most of the 609 on ebay seems to come from China which I am a bit wary of so may go with the 641 (without Chinese writing on the bottle!).
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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john 215
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby john 215 » 14 Feb 2016 10:08

Hi,Alan,

Don't quote me on this but something tells me that earlier halfshafts didn't have that snap ring and relied solely on the retainer ring, believe it or not.... something that was added in production, which is unusual as they tend to remove things !

The seal in the axle is smaller than the outer seal, more often than not it would be ok, but always good practice to replace oil seals if been run on before.

Loctite 609 will be fine, we use it work on various parts. Don't forget to replace the nyloc nuts that hold the retainer flange on also.

The final point is get a good bearing OE. SKF, Timken etc., there is so much chinese rubbish out there at the moment, sort of job you really don't want to repeat !

Cheers John
ImageImageImage Image

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME !

OLD SCHOOL MECHANIC - STUPID ENOUGH TO TAKE A CAR APART.. BUT ... SKILLED ENOUGH TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AGAIN !

1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX

1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

REPLIC8
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby REPLIC8 » 14 Feb 2016 11:58

Fully agree with John's comment. Make sure you use top quality bearings. I put some Rimmers bearings in my TR8 and they literally fell to pieces on the 5 mile trip to the MOT station! Replaced them with NOS Unipart ones and all was well. Definitely a job you only want to do once. I took my halfshafts to a loacal Triumph Stag specialist and they did the removal/refitting of the bearings. Not really a DIY job.
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Andy
1981 Triton Green TR7 FHC (low mileage standard Solihull car)
1980 Inca Yellow TR7 FHC (awaiting restoration/upgrading)

motomadness1947
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby motomadness1947 » 14 Feb 2016 13:12

Thank you Fellow wedge people all of that was good help. My 1980 car does not have the clips nor a grove for them in the halfshats that fits inboard of the collar. Also, Timken bearings have always been a premium product. I recommend them. the timken number is U261L in the US it is about $22 including the collar

Thank you
Motomadness1947

saabfast
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby saabfast » 14 Feb 2016 17:08

Interesting, I was concerned about the manufacture as could not see a name on them but they do have that Timken number engraved. I got them from ANG Classic Car Parts, came as a kit (KIT 028)with bearings, seal and collar, plus a split pin for somewhere. They seem to have quite good feedback.
What do they charge to do the pressing Andy? If they were near you I guess they are not a million miles from me. I was thinking of investing in a hydraulic press if it was a similar cost (any excuse, but not sure I can find space in the garage for it).
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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Cobber
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby Cobber » 14 Feb 2016 19:31

The number on bearings is an industry standard generic code to ID the dimensions of the bearing, not the manufacturer.
"Keep calm, relax, take a deep breath, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

'80 Triumph TR7.
'97 Ford Falcon Longreach 'S' ute,
'98 MG-F.
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign S3.

REPLIC8
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby REPLIC8 » 15 Feb 2016 07:45

Hi Alan,
It was Faversham Classics 01795 539163, They normally don't do anything other than Stags but if you talk nicely to them they're very helpful. Speak to either Trevor or Kevin. If I recall correctly, it was about £50.
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Andy
1981 Triton Green TR7 FHC (low mileage standard Solihull car)
1980 Inca Yellow TR7 FHC (awaiting restoration/upgrading)

saabfast
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby saabfast » 15 Feb 2016 23:09

Thanks Andy, will check it out when I get around to pulling the halfshafts, too cold at the moment!
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate Stage 1
Saab 9-3 2.0 SE Turbo Convertible
'81 TR7 DHC
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Bobbieslandy
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby Bobbieslandy » 17 May 2016 19:43

I've bought the Timken rear wheel bearings at £32 per side, makes you realise what you're getting when you pay £30 for both with oil seals. You gets what you pays for.

sheetsofsound
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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby sheetsofsound » 19 May 2016 03:22

Be aware of the oil seals. My rear axle is from a 1980 without the circlip. I had a set of oil seals from Rimmers and before I got the bearings pressed on, the machinist who was doing the work advised me that, in his opinion, the supplied seals were too tight and would shred. When I went around to his shop and had a look, I had to agree: The supplied seals were 65mm x 40mm x 10mm. That is the size that most suppliers sell for the TR7/8. Measuring the halfshaft where the oil seal rides, it came out just shy of 43mm. I found a set of seals from a local supplier that were 65mm x 42mm x 10mm and used those. They were more expensive, being an odd size, but they fit better.

P.S. I used Timken one piece bearings (can't remember the part number off-hand) and they fit quite nicely.

Brent

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Re: replacing rear wheel bearing

Postby Bobbieslandy » 19 May 2016 22:26

What i don't understand is why these crap bearings / oil seals are being sold by the very people who claim to help keep our cars on the road. Surely the days of maintaining a car like this on a shoestring are long gone? :x

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